Working with brass (progress pics)


R

Rub

Member
Will put in more pics as I go. This is going to be a crane jib when I'm finished. Only one side done so far. It's been a fun challenge so far.

One thing I can't seem to figure out. The solder never seems to be attracted to the flux like it does when soldering a copper pipe. I have to convince the solder to go where I want it.


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My solderring skill have a little bit to be desired.
But thats what the sanding discs are for. Still have some more grinding to do.

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What kind of gun are you using for soldering? It looks like to me that the brass isn't getting hot enough to bond the solder. You also need to get the right solder for the job.
Are you using silver solder or a cheap brand? How about flux? Brass takes a lot more heat than copper.
 
Larry,

I just noticed I am useing the wrong solder. I am useing Rosin core. I should be useing acid core. Right?????

I have a 30 Watt Iron.
Useing No. 5 Lead free solder paste.
Went to Menards last night. Wanted to get a mini torch but they were all out if them. YOu can refill them with the butane. I thought this would work great. Either that or I need a bigger iron.
 
A 30 W. soldering iron is not going to work. A mini propane torch would be a lot better. I think you can get them at WM or use to. When I solder any kind of brass or copper I use a small aircraft torch w/my Oxy. & acetylene tanks. As far as solder goes I use silver solder w/a powder flux. The metal needs to be super clean & you can get an acid for that from an auto parts store or welding store. You're probably going to have to get some more idea's from the guys on here that work w/brass because I use a torch.
 
You might want to explore a resistance-soldering unit. I used a heavy Wasco unit with copper-jacketed carbon tips. Micro-Mark.com has some nice units but they are fairly expensive. I have used 60/40 rosin-core flux solder with good results building lots of traction models. You can also buy liquid flux in small bottles with a built-in brush. I wouldn't use acid core. That's for plummers. The residue will always be there slowly eating your paint job. Anyway, that's my experience. It would be good for others to chime in.
 
You have to be careful with a torch too because it anneals the metal and makes it soft and weak. If you have awhile I can tell you a big long story.
 
kjd said:
You have to be careful with a torch too because it anneals the metal and makes it soft and weak. If you have awhile I can tell you a big long story.
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I am presently putting together a security fence around a small container facility. I am using a rosin core solder and a home depot I am using a 30W-130W boost Weller gun and .032 Radio Shack electronics solder. Everything else is in the photo below. The #11 knife is just for scale.

I really don't have any experience doing the type of large section soldering that you are attempting, but I would suspect that the area is not getting enough heat only because it appears that the solder is not getting a chance to spread out before it cools down.

I usually apply a small amount of flux down the entire section that I am soldering and lay the iron right into it. It bubbles a little and I then lay the thin solder right onto the tip and draw it down to the joint. It appears that you are attempting to fill in the gaps like a weld in which case, you may have to fill in and grind down. However the smaller support pieces that make up the center of each section shouldn't need as much solder as shown in the picture. You may want to try a smaller point on your gun for the internal supports


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68 Camaro said:
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thats a really nice looking fence you've got there...

for the OP, I can't help you much because I have never tried soldering brass..but all I can tell you is keep up the good work..its looks pretty good so far, and you've got lots mroe patience then I do.
 
Rub, never soldered brass myself but I do have a project to do later that requires it.
looking forward to seeing how you get along.
Larry, that's an outstanding job on the fence!
 
BN8002 said:
I can imagine...i might have to try my hand at it some time...what did you use for the chain link?
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I used a material called tulle which is used for wedding veils. It can be purchased at Michaels Crafts or any fabric store. I used gray, but it comes in white also.

The brass is painted using a rattle can gray auto primer (too lazy to break out airbrush). The tulle is applied using crazy glue and then the excess is cut away using a #11 blade scalpel shown in the top picture. Once this is completed, I airbrushed on a couple of light coats of a india ink/alcohol mixture to tone down the shine in the tulle. If you are using white tulle, use sufficient india ink/alcohol to get the desired color.

Tulle responds well to painting with solvent based rattle can primers or you can air brush it with a silver or aluminum acrylic paint and then use the alcohol mixture. If you paint the tulle lightly dust it as to not make the links look thick.
 
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QUOTE: "It appears that you are attempting to fill in the gaps like a weld in which case, you may have to fill in and grind down. "

He's right. Good soldering depends on capillary action that will suck the solder into the small gaps. Keep the gaps as small as possible. Solder doesn't fill gaps in any way that promotes strength. Solder will never get any stronger than as it comes on the roll - which has the stiffness of a wet noodle.

Mating parts should have the slightest suggestion of a "fillet". Piles and blobs indicate inadequate heat for the volume of material. remember that there's a difference between heat and temperature. A solder station with a regulated tip is a good solution. The ones with a tempset dial are a way to switch between fine fence work and massive chunks of brass stock.
 
Well, I bought a new Pencil torch. It's amazing how much better it works when you have the right stuff. I used a lot less Solder made for nicer joint. Still have to "grind" a little bit.



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68 Camaro said:
I used a material called tulle which is used for wedding veils. It can be purchased at Michaels Crafts or any fabric store. I used gray, but it comes in white also.

The brass is painted using a rattle can gray auto primer (too lazy to break out airbrush). The tulle is applied using crazy glue and then the excess is cut away using a #11 blade scalpel shown in the top picture. Once this is completed, I airbrushed on a couple of light coats of a india ink/alcohol mixture to tone down the shine in the tulle. If you are using white tulle, use sufficient india ink/alcohol to get the desired color.

Tulle responds well to painting with solvent based rattle can primers or you can air brush it with a silver or aluminum acrylic paint and then use the alcohol mixture. If you paint the tulle lightly dust it as to not make the links look thick.
Click to expand...

awesome..thanks for the info...
 
Rub said:
Well, I bought a new Pencil torch. It's amazing how much better it works when you have the right stuff. I used a lot less Solder made for nicer joint. Still have to "grind" a little bit.



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Rub,

I think you are well on you way. Looks good. Waiting to see the complete photos.

Larry
 
Still have to make one more peice for the end. I need to find a nice little file for the insides.
IMO I'm getting a little better at it. More sanding and filing and it will look pretty good. I redid all the other joints I did with the old iron.





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