What turnouts do you use?


What turnouts do you use?


  • Total voters
    56

mike8693

Member
I was planning on using atlas code 100 but it seems people have mixed reviews. I want reliability but not super expensive. Havent decided on code 83 or 100 so not a factor. Wondering what everyone uses. Thanks.
 
I have one Atlas Code 100 Customline turnout, a #6, and I can't say I'm very fussy about it. Aside from the black plastic frog, it seems prone to throwing some of my engines. I thought I had got rid of that problem when I stopped using EZ-Track long turnouts in 2005.

I currently use 5 #7.5 curved turnouts from Walthers/Shinohara. I can't say they are great turnouts. They cause shorts with standard HO tires on powered axles, such as on my steamers if there is a bit of overhang. I have had to cut gaps in one of the closure rails on all of them, just outside of the black plastic spacer. I also have a single #8 of the same kind, and its frog makes the passing items buck much of the time. Some items transit it smoothly. Quality-wise, I'd say they are quite good.

In my yard and on one switchback, I use Peco Streamline Code 83 #6 turnouts. They are excellent, conforming to the N. American format with a straight path through and beyond the frog in each route. The odd short problem, though, for the same reasons as above.

By far my best turnouts, completely trouble-free, and a joy to see in service because of their close tolerances in the frog, are my Fast Tracks handlaid #8's on the main. I will be building my own turnouts from now on. They are worth the trouble for the superior frogs.
 
I'm not quite as adept as Crandell when it comes to building switches although the Fast tracks system makes it a lot easier than the old days. I'd have to agree that you will get the best switches with handlaid Fast Track switches assuming you are good and careful with detail work.

On my layout, I have Atlas code 100 #6 switches on the mainline and #4 switches in the yard. If I had the space, I'd use #8 switches on the mainline and #6 switches in the yard and on industrial stubs. Atlas switches are certainly not the best quality switches made but they are good quality for the price you pay. Count on having to do some work like filing the points and getting the stock rails level with running rails. I haven't had any short problems with mine using DCC but some nail polish or cuts behind the frog will usually solve those problems. They operate very reliably using Caboose Hobbies ground throws. I really do hate the black plastic frogs. I don't know why they can't mold them in a silver color - it would make them look much better. Still, they work for me and have for the last year or so and I'm pleased with the price to value ratio.
 
I use insulated Peco's #6's, because they are spring loaded and when thrown, stay tight against the side rails. However, with inflation and the flat dollar, even these have become extremely expensive since they are made in the UK. My next layout if ever.will use Micro Engineering electrofrog and flex track.

Larry
 
I'm slowly replacing my Atlas switches with Peco Electrofrogs on the main. In the yard I'm trying out Micro Engineering, same spring action as the Pecos but better looking imo. I have the odd Shinohara in some areas, they are performing well.
Most are #6 with a few #8, and will be using a #10 on the upper mainline.
Short wheelbase sound equipped locos stalling in the yards is what started the conversion.
Sounds like I should try the fastracks, heard good things about them!
 
Fast-Tracks all the way!

I voted hand laid as I build switches with and with out the fast tracks jigs. Their point/frog filing block is a must though!
 
On my Dad's layout, we used mostly Atlas #6 and a few #4's. For some of the small radius curved turnouts we have Peco, and for the large curved #7 and #8's we used Walther's/Shinohara.
When I build my only layout I think I'll try the Fast-tracks system. It looks like a great system, and after I build a few that way I'll try a true hand laid turnout for some of the "unconventional" "odd" turnouts.

An add on question to this post would be...

How do you switch your turnouts? Tortoise, Twin-coil, or other. Are the Hares, Rabbits, Fleas and other DCC controls worth the added cost? Heading to the panels... Do you use momentary switches, toggles or what to power your machines?
 
Tortise switch machines. The fast track does sound like a great system. Anthing other than a belt sander that could be used to take out the base of the rail? Also on a scale of 1 to 10 ten being the highest how hard to build are they for a beginner? I have read they are really easy but people also call a rubics cube easy.
 
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Mike, the way I approached the question was to forego the belt sander and use my twin-wheeled electric bench grinder. It takes a bit of getting used to, but kissing the rail foot with light sweeping motions gets the job done in a jiffy. Instead, I opted to send for a rather (cough) costly jeweler's saw with the fine filament blades to isolate the frog. Wow....and wow, again. It's the only way to go. The resultant "gaps" are almost hairlike.

-Crandell
 
My problem is that I will only be building maybe 6 to 8 switches so I realy would like to keep from spending so much on a few switches. I am so sick of dealing with switches that dont work it is worth 200 or so but I dont know about 300 or 400 at that id be better to by them at 35$ on ebay. Could i use a small file I know it wont look great but would it get the job done?
 
I'm strictly DC, and I use Sinohara code 100 turnouts (#6) on my main and code 83 (#5) in my yards. I haven't had trouble with them at all, even the several curved switches on my main. They're very good at forming ladder tracks in my yard because of their selective current. I will say that their current flow is a little more delicate because of the thin bronze connectors under the point throws, aside from having to tinker with that particular problem a bit, they're very sufficient for what I need. And I've had no trouble with de-railing at the points, even right out of the box. I think they're really well-made. I did install one Peco in a crossover between my main lines, but trying to wire it from the installation directions was a nightmare (sorry, but British English seems to have become a foreign language, LOL!). Good turnouts, but I have NO idea what they're talking about.

Tom :confused:
 
All mine are Code 83 DCC friendly and I used Atlas #6 on my mainlines with Walthers' Shinohara #5's for most everything else. I do have three Walthers #6 1/2 curved turnouts with no problems. Walthers have been very reliable and look good, but you must be careful not to damage the rail jumpers underneath. They are spot welded and flexing can cause them to pop loose. Another problem with Walthers is getting them; they only come in about twice a year and go fast.

All my mainlines use Tortoise machines controlled by Lenz LS150 decoders. Everything else has ground throws by Caboose Hobbies. I never found good'nuf justification to use the Hare or other gadgets with them.
 
Tortise switch machines. The fast track does sound like a great system. Anthing other than a belt sander that could be used to take out the base of the rail? Also on a scale of 1 to 10 ten being the highest how hard to build are they for a beginner? I have read they are really easy but people also call a rubics cube easy.

The first one will be like a 7 or 8, then it drops down to 1-2 on the second one.

I used a dremel instead of the sander. You just have to go slowly.

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I have used mostly Shinohara on the code 100 and the walthers/shinohara on the code 83. I am going to try and build some #5's for the back section of the layout using the Fast Track Jig and using central Valley ties. I have seen pictures of it and like the looks. Since I am running DCC, i have the most remote switches hooked up to tortoises and am using the NCE Switch-its to control them. I have created a panel on Panel-pro, using the JMRI software and it works like a charm. The switches that can be reach easily, are on ground throws.

bob A.
 
The first one will be like a 7 or 8, then it drops down to 1-2 on the second one.

I used a dremel instead of the sander. You just have to go slowly

thanks I hadn't thought of that I literally have 2 power tools a drill and a dremel. Thanks again everyone.
 
I voted handlaid. Not fast tracks, but "pure" handlaid. I've written reviews about the Fast Tracks jig, but they still have what is in my mind, their greatest shortcoming.

Handlaid tracks biggest advantage is, and always will be, you are not limited to what you can only buy. Currently you are still pretty much limited to what FT offers in their jigs as to what you can build. Need a #12.5 lt hand curved turnout? You can't get one from FT, or from anyone else except maybe Walthers/Shinohara, and that's assuming the track is in stock when you need it.

With handlaid it doesn't matter. You're limited only by your imagination. If you can handlay one standard turnout, you have the skills to build any turnout you need.
 



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