Weekend Workbench: 2023


Ken I just use Gorilla Glue Super glue for all my resin kits. Just wash them with Dawn dishwashing detergent with a Toothbrush let the parts dry and start building it. You can use the kicker with Gorilla Glue. Here’s a pic of what I use. View attachment 145669
Lee, thanks - but I've already got the CA - it's the kicker that I'm looking for. What do the hardware stores call that stuff, so I'll know what to ask them for?
 
I've gotten kicker at a hobby store, usually Bob Smith brand. Zap is another brand we use at work. Supposedly, the kicker is quite hazardous to health and rumored to be outlawed across the pond. Instead of kicker, I often use baking soda in a squeeze bottle. It doesn't work as well but is less toxic. I never spray the kicker, I usually put it in a needle bottle and stick a couple drops just were they are needed. It does evaporate out of the needle bottle so add as needed and put back into main bottle for storage.
It might also be called CA accelerant.
 
Supposedly, the kicker is quite hazardous to health and rumored to be outlawed across the pond.
I have a 2fl.oz. bottle of BSI Insta-Set Accelerator that I bought in the LHS for 6 bucks.
It has the warning label on it:
Combustible
Synthetic Hydrocarbons and Aromatic Amine
Don't breathe vapors, don't get in the eyes or on skin; don't induce vomiting if ingested. Keep out of reach of children.

I think baking soda in a squeeze bottle is probably the better idea, even if it is slower reacting.
 
I've gotten kicker at a hobby store, usually Bob Smith brand. Zap is another brand we use at work. Supposedly, the kicker is quite hazardous to health and rumored to be outlawed across the pond. Instead of kicker, I often use baking soda in a squeeze bottle. It doesn't work as well but is less toxic. I never spray the kicker, I usually put it in a needle bottle and stick a couple drops just were they are needed. It does evaporate out of the needle bottle so add as needed and put back into main bottle for storage.
It might also be called CA accelerant.
I have heard others using the baking soda.

It seems to me, the CA I use (Gorilla glue) sets up so fast that the kicker is not necessary. I think it says hold for 60 seconds, but if surfaces are clean and maybe slightly skuffed 10 seconds is often enough.

Dave LASM
 
I've been working on my control board for my layout. The relays will control the turnouts and the signals. The "H" bridges will be controlling the power to the track. I will be using 2 "Arduino Megas" for controlling the relays and H bridges. I'm running the old atlas brass snap track and my layout is currently DC , with plan for wireless control using " LocoFi " in the future.
 

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Welcome to another weekend!
This week I’m not at the workbench but on the other side of the wall where a mock up of a tunnel somehow became a real tunnel.
(that’ll teach her to leave me unsupervised)
The idea was to use some scrap lumber to protect the trains from dust, debris, and curious kitties.

D475141C-666E-4625-A6A8-E9797B1732F5.jpeg
658EEDE2-5A47-4FDD-BF39-D6FCE6E05A7B.jpeg
 
Update on 5529, I made the windows and installed them along with the lights, handrails and a little weathering. I still need to add the piping to the air tanks and the front handrail. I was trying to trim the posts on the front handrail to fit into the anticlimber and broke one of the posts. I have some extra sets so will prep and paint a new one later. I need to figure out why the cab isn't sitting right.

I like this view, it really shows the different trucks. I'm not thrilled with the handrails, the castings aren't super smooth and the rails themselves are a little chunky.

5529--05.jpg
 
Here is my Saturday contribution, a structure marketed by WKW as a steel rolling mill kit but re-purposed to serve as an 84 Lumber distribution warehouse. When I first installed it a few years ago, all the walls were completely closed except for a few doors on the ends where I could just roll in boxcars and bulkhead flatcars. But, aside from providing an occasional switching opportunity, I considered it rather boring since the spotted cars were mostly hidden.

Well today I decided to do some corrective surgery on it: I cut away 3 inches from the bottom of the outward-facing wall to make the rail cars visible, and extended the "paved" area ~2" out from the edge of the building to accommodate the forklifts that need to get to both sides of the bulkhead flats to unload them without tipping them over:

84Lumber.jpg


The two holes seen above the opening are where I put in some temporary screws to fasten the aluminum yardstick I used as a straightedge, dragging my Xacto blade against it to score and break-away the unwanted wall sections; I still need to figure out a way to hide them.

This will not only make the area a little more interesting to look at, but also enable my guest operators to read the road numbers on the cars they are supposed to pick up. I'm planning to acquire a larger fork lift than the one I'm temporarily using here as a placeholder. (The Tamiya Flat Gray paint on the "pavement" was still wet in a few spots when I snapped this photo...)
 
Today two train projects, the little building I started a couple weeks ago, and the wood truss bridge, lumber just delivered a couple days ago:


The prototype is the photo on the right.


IMG_2190.JPG



Just plan to paint the little building, and hope to get more done on the bridge. Will also be cutting some firewood and running into town later:

IMG_2191.JPG


more later, Dave
 
Today two train projects, the little building I started a couple weeks ago, and the wood truss bridge, lumber just delivered a couple days ago:


The prototype is the photo on the right.


View attachment 146179


Just plan to paint the little building, and hope to get more done on the bridge. Will also be cutting some firewood and running into town later:

View attachment 146180

more later, Dave
Dave that’s going to be nice once it’s done.
 
For this weekend, I've started another Sylvan truck model:
52 Ford COE_05-21-2022 (1).JPG


I've already cleaned up the parts, sanded down the steering wheel as thin as I dare, and glued said wheel onto a wire:
52 Ford COE_05-21-2022 (2).JPG

There was a-lot of flash to be cleaned off. That fact seems to be typical of Sylvan kits. However, this kit looks to be better than the last 52 Ford I built. I only have one repair on this kit, which is to fill the right headlight on the grill.
I expect this kit will go somewhat easier, now that I've learned what's up on the first kit. Perhaps I'll even get all the wheels to touch ground at the same time.

Plus, the first Ford is presently in dry time after repainting the blue/grey. I'll give it another day for the enamel to set, and then redo the silver trim:
52 Ford_05-20-2022 (1).JPG


Aside from the trucks, I hope to get more track put down on the basement layout. If I can get the track down, I'll have a pile of soldering to do. I'm running DC only.

Have a wonderful weekend of railroad modelling!
 
For this weekend, I've started another Sylvan truck model:
View attachment 146184

I've already cleaned up the parts, sanded down the steering wheel as thin as I dare, and glued said wheel onto a wire:
View attachment 146185
There was a-lot of flash to be cleaned off. That fact seems to be typical of Sylvan kits. However, this kit looks to be better than the last 52 Ford I built. I only have one repair on this kit, which is to fill the right headlight on the grill.
I expect this kit will go somewhat easier, now that I've learned what's up on the first kit. Perhaps I'll even get all the wheels to touch ground at the same time.

Plus, the first Ford is presently in dry time after repainting the blue/grey. I'll give it another day for the enamel to set, and then redo the silver trim:
View attachment 146187

Aside from the trucks, I hope to get more track put down on the basement layout. If I can get the track down, I'll have a pile of soldering to do. I'm running DC only.

Have a wonderful weekend of railroad modelling!
Another great looking truck Guy. I like Sylvans Models but it’s hard to get all the wheels to sit on the ground like you said and after a couple years of being on the layout the frames sometimes begin to sage and warp too. I’ve had to rebuild 3 so far.
 
Well I got a bunch done yesterday, not as much as I hoped, but overall happy

For the bridge got the dimensions figured out, started building up the trusses. Still have to add a few more layers of 2 x 6

IMG_2198.JPG


Building the trusses is the hard part, I hope. Will be using india ink and water for weathering when done

Here is the little building, will be the Groningen bank when done, which was just about the same size:

In this shot just after one coat of tan paint on the sides, still working on it

IMG_2196.JPG


Here is at the end of the day, painted roof flat black with rattle can, used red/white mixed paint over tan, which I wiped off to leave some in cracks, then added a little white mortar, which was also wiped off before dry.

Still will be adding styrene and probably decals

IMG_2201.JPG


Was going to paint door and windows but wife says she likes it the way it is. See bottom left corner for some mortar highlights, also red/white blend wash went between cracks throughout. Also did some india ink and water over the whole thing, mostly water to carry some of the ink into cracks but not too much

Looking at pic may want to add a little filler where walls come together on top left

Dave LASM
 
Well I have nothing to show off this weekend, we’re camping up on Hecla Island, Manitoba. It’s been raining off and on but still enjoying it.
I believe it was the great Genghis Khan who once said “A wet day camping beats a dry day at the office”. 🤪
 



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