weekend photofun 9/10/11 May 08

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Jim, The yellow dashes on the side sills are some Micro-Scale BNSF set 87-1023, stripes cut up. They are a very bright yellow and look like the safety tape I think.
 
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Dave,
Looks like we crossposted. Those piers would work fine with the plate girders spans. All you have to do is cut about the top two courses of stone from the top of the piers. I'm guessing so measure first. Fill the resulting hole with .030 styrene. Order three sets of bridge shoes from Walthers and glue them to the bottom of the plate girder spans and then to the piers. Like I said, measure all this first so the plate girder bridge roadbed will match up to the existing roadbed after the shoes are installed. You will then have a very realistic plate girder bridge.
 
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Wow, such a great weekend yet again everyone. You all deserve a pat on the back.

Dave- Good looking bridge work.

Jerome- Fantastic job on tje switchers, they look fabulous.
 
Jerome, I'll have to get me a set of those Microscale decals. The ones they sell as yellow safety stripes are really too thin and the background color shows through. Yours look way better than other safety stripes I've seen.

Jeffrey, I'm sure it's an optical illusion but it looks like that KCS engine is about to plow into that Hayes bumper. :)
 
Jerome, I'll have to get me a set of those Microscale decals. The ones they sell as yellow safety stripes are really too thin and the background color shows through. Yours look way better than other safety stripes I've seen.
Have you checked out the parallel stripes sheets? Much cheaper then killing a whole BNSF H1 sheet for the stripes. If they're not opaque enough, try a yellow trim film sheet.

So, I'm a day late, and $2 short ($2 worth of paint)... Here's a shot of the elevator portion of my concrete grain storage complex, recently painted a light tan. I opted to paint over the windows, for 2 reasons. (1), they were glued in amazingly strong by the previous owner, and (2), I figured a made up history that, when the new owners took over the bakery complex, they repainted all the buildings this tan color, and were too cheap to mask off the un-needed windows.
 
Josh, those parallel stripes are what I've been using and they are way too thin and not opaque enough. I'm not sure what you mean by a yellow film trim sheet. I would hate to kill a whole sheet of BNSF decals but those are the best looking safety stripes I've seen so far.

I've actually seen elevators like yours with the windows painted over so your back story isn't so far off.
 
Jerome, I'll have to get me a set of those Microscale decals. The ones they sell as yellow safety stripes are really too thin and the background color shows through. Yours look way better than other safety stripes I've seen.

Jim,

They seem to have a white layer, then a yellow layer. So they do cover most colors and still look bright. They covered that dark green switcher with no problem. I also put a thick layer of gloss-coat over them.

Josh,

It may seem like a waste of an entire sheet of BNSF decals, but I use the leftovers for other things that come along. I never throw decals away. :)
 
I removed the deck truss bridges and painted the through truss bridge before work this AM.....

UP2CSX....Jim, thanks for the advice! This will work out good, I used the track sections from the deck truss bridges for the approach spans I made:)



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Dave, I like the green color on the bridge. The approach spans turned out good too. Invest the couple of bucks and get bridge shoes for the plate girder bridges since they will be a foreground model. It will look much more realistic than the bridges just resting on the abutments.
 
Josh, those parallel stripes are what I've been using and they are way too thin and not opaque enough. I'm not sure what you mean by a yellow film trim sheet. I would hate to kill a whole sheet of BNSF decals but those are the best looking safety stripes I've seen so far.

I've actually seen elevators like yours with the windows painted over so your back story isn't so far off.
Trim Film is a solid color decal sheet, that you trim to the desired shape(s):
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...ct_Code=TF-6&Category_Code=TF&Product_Count=6

I'll have to check out the stripes, my silver package cam out opaque, wonder if it has something to do with the color?

Jim,

They seem to have a white layer, then a yellow layer. So they do cover most colors and still look bright. They covered that dark green switcher with no problem. I also put a thick layer of gloss-coat over them.

Josh,

It may seem like a waste of an entire sheet of BNSF decals, but I use the leftovers for other things that come along. I never throw decals away. :)
Heck, I never throw decals away, until they brake up upon release... Then I simply spray the rest of the sheet & hope for the best.
 
Took a day off and shot some pics on the WCTR today.

When I got to one of my favorite photo spots, the overpasses, I saw a WCTR/L&SC local switching some cars near the warehouses along the Mississippi. So, I jumped off the bridge and ran down along the road that goes along the tracks to take some pics...

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A horn in the distance told me that a BN freight was coming into sight. Interiestingly enough, a set of Dash 8s being leased by BN were on the point, just out of the loco wash. This bridge crosses the WCTR's Inver Grove Heights yard...

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After eating lunch, I hiked back up to the road, and waited for the WCTR's daily intermodal train from St. Paul. After coming into sight, and stopping at the switch for a quick locomotive inspection...

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After waiting for the 7922 to leave for nearly half an hour, I said my goodbye to the WCTR for a day of fanning. Note that the local left their A&P caboose under the overpass.

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Enjoy, even though not really the weekend anymore :(

Phil
 
Looks like you had about an 8.9 on the Richter scale there, Phil. :) Nice work on the models and the photos. That mainline track is just too perfect though - needs a bit of weeds or trash or something.
 


Are those switchers the ones Jerome did!? They look awesome! Wondering, Jerome, do you have any Athearn SW1500 (actual model not the SW7) powered (or unpowered) chassis?
 




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