Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

[diesel]

The thing here at Weathering Rolling Stock a Continuous Thread [...]

Right. I get that. Not just here but I'm in some Discord groups where the threads go on and on, and there's a ton of really great stuff. Also it's not just anointed guru teaching from on a high mountain LOL, it's lots of people contributing rare and useful feedback and insight. My observation is that it is the same here. Problem is, the threads get so long and so old, that it's not practical to access the older stuff, only the last several pages. You can do searches but those don't capture the context just key words. In Discord, there is a mechanism called pinning that puts a post permanently at the thread start. Not everyone can pin, just moderators. In some of those groups, the pinned messages form a kind of ad hoc reference. The people who posted didn't need to submit, review, collate, preserve or do anything with their contribution other than to post. Usually other people said, "hey please pin that" or a mod might just decide to do it. I don't think this forum software has the ability so I guess my suggestion doesn't have a real implementation to lean on anyway.

I'm just starting out on my second run at weathering and developing skill, and as people who used the early internet found out, things that seem forever often aren't (now they're on the Wayback Machine). So I'm going to have to go back the 4 years and do some serious mining.

 

[TLOC]

Here is the car again being reviewed. This car was weathered 5/2025 and the reason I decided I needed a list

Here is a cleaned up version (she used words not allowed in the forum) of my wife’s review:

1. Physics & Logic: The "Tide Line" Issue
The most noticeable area for improvement is the "tide lines" (hard edges) on the yellow panels

The Critique: In several panels, the wash has pooled and dried with a distinct dark outline rather than a soft, feathered transition. This happens when the wash is too heavy or lacks a surface tension breaker.

The Fix: Use the Troubleshooting Guide for "Tide Lines." Dampen a clean brush with thinner and gently "scrub" those hard circular edges to soften them. In the future, ensure your "Save Point #1" matte coat is very smooth so the wash flows rather than puddles.


2. Texture & Sheen: Roof vs. Body

The Critique: The roof oxidation is a beautiful color, but the texture looks slightly thick in the photos. It risks looking like "rust paste" rather than oxidized metal.

The Fix: Use a "Scale Grain" check. For your next build, try using a much thinner fading wash (Step 2 in our sequence) before applying the heavy pigments. This creates a more transparent, layered look.

Operational Wear: The "Kick-Up" Zone

The Critique: The trucks and wheels are perfectly earthy and matte. However, the yellow body directly above the trucks is almost as clean as the middle of the car.

The Fix: Prototypically, the lower 1/4 of the car (the "Kick-Up Zone") should be noticeably dirtier than the top 3/4. Use your airbrush to lightly mist some of that same "wheel grime" color onto the bottom sill of the car and the lower stirrup steps to tie the car and the trucks together.

3. Mechanical & QC: Bare Metal Highlights

The Critique: The car is very "monochromatic" in its grime. It looks like it has been sitting in a yard rather than being actively handled by a crew

The Fix: Add some Metallic Integrity (Section II of your Review Log). Take a soft graphite pencil and lightly rub it on the following points:

The very top edges of the door tracks

The rungs of the ladders

The coupler knuckle face

This creates a "used" look where the paint has been worn away to bare, shiny steel by operation

So there you have it.

I used her printed review and started improving the car. I fixed the car and sold it on a FB sales site in less than 12 hours Friday. I will post the completed car on Monday.

 

[TLOC]

Right. I get that. Not just here but I'm in some Discord groups where the threads go on and on, and there's a ton of really great stuff. Also it's not just anointed guru teaching from on a high mountain LOL, it's lots of people contributing rare and useful feedback and insight. My observation is that it is the same here. Problem is, the threads get so long and so old, that it's not practical to access the older stuff, only the last several pages. You can do searches but those don't capture the context just key words. In Discord, there is a mechanism called pinning that puts a post permanently at the thread start. Not everyone can pin, just moderators. In some of those groups, the pinned messages form a kind of ad hoc reference. The people who posted didn't need to submit, review, collate, preserve or do anything with their contribution other than to post. Usually other people said, "hey please pin that" or a mod might just decide to do it. I don't think this forum software has the ability so I guess my suggestion doesn't have a real implementation to lean on anyway.

I'm just starting out on my second run at weathering and developing skill, and as people who used the early internet found out, things that seem forever often aren't (now they're on the Wayback Machine). So I'm going to have to go back the 4 years and do some serious mining.

I understand and that why every 6 months or so I’ll do a recap or like this weekend a re-set. Thanks for checking in

 

[C&OMtnMan]

I will be very honest and tell you my weathering since my stroke in August 2024 while I feel still is good and honestly better than some of what is selling online is still not up to my standards prior to 8/2024.

I’m sorry to hear the extent of your struggles, TomO.

 

[TLOC]

I’m sorry to hear the extent of your struggles, TomO.

I’m doing fine and things slowly come back to me. The lists are a way to reinforce what needs to be done and in which sequence. So a bit of the creativity is missing but while still not 100% natural I’m getting there. I have not reached a plateau yet. I was told if my left arm strength got back to 45% I should be happy. Well 16 months later the left arm is at 80% strength and I have no limitations until I try something I can’t do. I’m not complaining and I’m enjoying life.

 

[C&OMtnMan]

I’m doing fine and things slowly come back to me. The lists are a way to reinforce what needs to be done and in which sequence. So a bit of the creativity is missing but while still not 100% natural I’m getting there. I have not reached a plateau yet. I was told if my left arm strength got back to 45% I should be happy. Well 16 months later the left arm is at 80% strength and I have no limitations until I try something I can’t do. I’m not complaining and I’m enjoying life.

Glad to hear. Keep digging!

 

[wheeler1963]

Your process is solid, your results speak for them self. I love seeing other people's techniques. We can always learn something new or a new product to try. Thank you for you thread, it's very valuable .

Here's a Picture of most of the different products I use.

 

[diesel]

The Critique: In several panels, the wash has pooled and dried with a distinct dark outline rather than a soft, feathered transition.

Befitting a "Railcar Pooling Expert".

 

[Marlin39]

I want to just fade a tank car. No real weathering. Just take the shine waaay down. The car is gray.

I don't have an airbrush, so do I just hit it with a couple of coats of Dull Coat?

Thanks

 

[wheeler1963]

I want to just fade a tank car. No real weathering. Just take the shine waaay down. The car is gray.

I don't have an airbrush, so do I just hit it with a couple of coats of Dull Coat?

Thanks

Dulcoate is a good start. I've seen some people do a light coat of chaulks first.

I prefer a bit of weathering myself.

 

[TLOC]

I want to just fade a tank car. No real weathering. Just take the shine waaay down. The car is gray.

I don't have an airbrush, so do I just hit it with a couple of coats of Dull Coat?

Thanks

Short answer, absolutely. The Dull Coat will definitely get rid of the shine, sheen , brightness whatever you want to call it. Plus it will give you a base whenever you want to add your chalks, powders or pan pastels. It will not fade or let say, it should not fade the car.

David you have shown good success with oils! Before your dull coat the car try a wash of white oil lightly applied. Weak wash so you have better control. Don’t seal until you like it and if you dislike it the mineral spirits should remove it.

The other non airbrush technique is the oil dot method. Here is a simple video.

I really think you’d excel with either method

 

[Marlin39]

Ok, another try at using oils. They're good enough and maybe I'll get better with a little more practice. Plastic is still a little
difficult for me. I am very comfortable working with wood and it is almost instinctive now.

I just wanted to fade the tank car and it came out ok.

I wanted the hopper to have fertilizer grime, but not be a rust bucket.

 

[TLOC]

Ok, another try at using oils. They're good enough and maybe I'll get better with a little more practice. Plastic is still a little
difficult for me. I am very comfortable working with wood and it is almost instinctive now.

I just wanted to fade the tank car and it came out ok.

I wanted the hopper to have fertilizer grime, but not be a rust bucket.
View attachment 257089View attachment 257090View attachment 257091

You mention “they’re good enough” and that is all that matters here. You like them.

The fertizler hopper has a good start and looks good. The tank car is not shiny and you said that was your goal

 

[traiNscale]

Howdi folks

So i just wanted to ask the following.
I may win a auction of a locomotive for cheap. it has a fantasy livery on it, and i was thinking this could be my first engine project.
that means, the engine i get cheap, so if i mess it up well who cares.

the idea is, to strip down the whole paint of the locomotive. whats the best way to go? Just take the shell of, and throw it into a 99% IPA bath? Will this also attack the plastic or not? i then, will search for Prototype pictures, and want to build up the locomotive from "scatch" i also want to add, DCC and maybe even sound. so that i have a full built engine from the ground up.
to learn and also understand the whole thing that runs over my layout.

and i already know, i will have soooo many questions haha
but first, i have to win the auction (for a decent prize).

 

[TLOC]

Howdi folks

So i just wanted to ask the following.
I may win a auction of a locomotive for cheap. it has a fantasy livery on it, and i was thinking this could be my first engine project.
that means, the engine i get cheap, so if i mess it up well who cares.

the idea is, to strip down the whole paint of the locomotive. whats the best way to go? Just take the shell of, and throw it into a 99% IPA bath? Will this also attack the plastic or not? i then, will search for Prototype pictures, and want to build up the locomotive from "scatch" i also want to add, DCC and maybe even sound. so that i have a full built engine from the ground up.
to learn and also understand the whole thing that runs over my layout.

and i already know, i will have soooo many questions haha
but first, i have to win the auction (for a decent prize).

Marco! If you want to repaint the locomotive or any freight car yes, the IPA should strip it down. In my experience it should not affect the plastic. Remove everything you can 1st. I use a Ziploc bag. Place the shell only onto the bag, fill the bag covering the shell with IPA. A plastic container with a sealable top will work also. After 60 minutes look at it. Some paint is easily removable, others are not. I check hourly and if it feels right I use a soft tooth brush and scrub the shell down.

There are other products but I find 91% IPA works for me but if you can access 99% that will speed up the process. Just remember everything acts differently for people. This works for me

When it’s stripped to your happy place rinse it with warm and soapy water and than just warm water.

Have fun

 

[traiNscale]

thnx tom.
will try it (if i win) and let you of course know how it went

cheers
Marco

 

[moonlighting_racer]

Posted this car a month ago and got some great feedback on it. Does everyone like the floor better now? Its a little heavier than I'd like but not as heavy as the car behind it, so I guess that's a win? I'm starting a couple more Roundhouse 72's so I wanted to get some last critiques. I still need to hit the the front and rear bulkheads with some additional grime too.

Edit: I tried to get powder to stick to the opera windows but it didn't really work. Should I be using a very gentle wash there?

 

[TLOC]

View attachment 260658View attachment 260659View attachment 260660View attachment 260661Posted this car a month ago and got some great feedback on it. Does everyone like the floor better now? Its a little heavier than I'd like but not as heavy as the car behind it, so I guess that's a win? I'm starting a couple more Roundhouse 72's so I wanted to get some last critiques. I still need to hit the the front and rear bulkheads with some additional grime too.

Edit: I tried to get powder to stick to the opera windows but it didn't really work. Should I be using a very gentle wash there?

I like the floor! It has a nice coverage and a good variety of shades

As to the window edges. Do you want grime or rust? Either can be done with a wash. Try applying powders the normal way you do but heavier than you would. Then rub it into the edges with a hard sponge or even your finger tip covered by a bandage.

For some reason I remember doing one of these and using a graphite stick on the edges for a bare metal look. I can’t find it in the album though

 

[traiNscale]

howdi folks

just to let you know.
i won the auction. so a used engine (DC) for 40 bucks.
thats a great price for a project that also could go totally wrong hahaha
i will let you know when the loco arrives and show you some pictures.

cheers
Marco

 

[TLOC]

howdi folks

just to let you know.
i won the auction. so a used engine (DC) for 40 bucks.
thats a great price for a project that also could go totally wrong hahaha
i will let you know when the loco arrives and show you some pictures.

View attachment 260710

cheers
Marco

Congrats on the win…