Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

[TLOC]

I put in a "dollar over" bid so the app would track it, then I ended up winning twice! Which makes up for being violently outbid on a couple sets of no FRA stripe CSX Grain Express hoppers over the weekend. The third pair of centerbeams I was watching went for $90(!!) so I don't know how the other 2 pairs got overlooked.


Just the lightest hit of powder over them. I'm not sure it'll survive the final clear coat.


The prototype is really red though. The fade looked really good initially but close up is still a little frosty. Tried to blend it with the powders the best I could.


Yeah was mega happy with it even if its really heavy.


Again, just powder.

Suggestions


Ohhhh I like that...


Noted, they're all roughtly brush sized...I need to try to vary a little more. It works okay as the plastic covering but that wasn't the intent.


<3 That's the goal. I might end up selling 1 or 2 of the ebay ones once I'm done with them.

I only have a little shelf layout (condo life) though I'm (very slowly) working on a slightly larger one (glued track but have a lot of ballasting to do which I don't particularly enjoy). I've been meaning to go visit one of the clubs in the area and bring some rolling stock, but I've got a toddler so weekends are pretty busy. Idk if it's weird to just pop in and be like "hey can I run these?"


The goal is to get better, and I do my best to match prototypes but the experienced hands will notice details I might miss. Can't get better if nobody critiques. Learned a lot even between these 2 cars. The feedback is extremely appreciated!

Also, hows the new paints? I have a mix of Tamiya and Micro Mark but have complaints about both.

The new paints look great, in the box. I won’t try new paints to me on commission weathering projects. I have not had time to do my own stuff so no testing yet. I will get to testing them probably in February on one of projects I have going, either a power plant wall or one of the paper mill structures

The Micro Mart paints are actually Vallejo Air rebranded for them. I use lots of Vallejo and Tamiya. What’s your complaints

 

[TLOC]

Ok, here goes. My first attempt at using oil paints. It was far from easy on this hopper, but it kind of came out how I wanted it to look. A little beat up, spilled product stained on the roof, and I couldn't stand the color of the trucks.

Before

View attachment 254991

After

View attachment 254992View attachment 254993

David, you have skills! Nicely done especially for 1st time oils

This is a fantastic transformation. You’ve moved from a plain Jane look to a heavy-duty industrial piece that feels like it has a real history. The level of grime is very appropriate for a car that was built in 1953 (as noted by the "NEW 1-53" stenciling) and if I remember correctly you model the 1960’s

Looks like a Bowser hopper in the before picture but without the Bowser sheen. Or is it another mfg?

The vertical rust and dirt streaks are the highlight here.

Gravity: You followed the "natural flow" of water perfectly. The streaks originate from the top chord and horizontal ribs, which is exactly where soot and moisture collect before washing down the sides.

The "V" and Ribs: I particularly like the heavy buildup in the "V" of the side bracing. It gives the car great 3D depth.

Lettering: You’ve aged the red "INTERNATIONAL FERTILIZERS" logo well. It looks appropriately sun-bleached and stained without becoming unreadable. But you could go a bit further with some fertilizer streaking over the lettering. Make sure they are still readable though.

Roof and Walkways

The roof detail in Picture 3 is very convincing.

Texture: The roof walk has a nice "gritty" look. Since these cars carried minerals and fertilizers, the roof would naturally be caked in a mix of spilled product and locomotive soot.

Hatch Detail: The dark washes around the hatches look great, simulating the oil and dirt from being opened and closed frequently at the loading facility.

Some ideas

Spillage Effects: Since this is a fertilizer car, you could add a few "chalky" white streaks coming down from the hatches using a light gray or white oil paint/pastel. This simulates spilled product that has reacted with rain.

The Trucks: The side frames look much better weathered, but you might want to add a tiny touch of "oily black" or a dark wash to the journal box area (the center of the wheel sets) to simulate grease leakage, which was common in that era.

You didn’t show the bends

The Ends: Don't forget the "B-end" (the end with the handbrake). These areas often caught a lot of road grime kicked up by the wheels of the car ahead of it

You can run it on my layout anytime.

Can you do a quick run by as to how you achieved this? What oils? Mixes, brushes, sponges what did you use?


Have a great day

 

[Marlin39]

You can run it on my layout anytime.

Can you do a quick run by as to how you achieved this? What oils? Mixes, brushes, sponges what did you use?


Have a great day

Tom,
I am truly humbled by your compliments...coming from a master like yourself.

Yes it is a Bowser model. The trucks were the biggest challenge and I painted the wheel faces with Humbrol rust, then a dark wash.

This may surprise you, but 90% of the work was done with undiluted raw umber oil. I put "rust" dots on with a #0 round point shader, then pulled it down with #8 square tip shader. I came back and put a second dot where the original was.

The fertilizer grime on top was Pan Pastel burnt sienna and I did add some some dark alcohol wash to the roof walk to blend it in.

I added little flecks of Humbrol rust around the base of the panels with a #10/0 detail brush. I may add some more earth brown Pan Pastel to the ends later.

I sealed everything with DulCote.

I'm going to attempt a tank car next, but not as weathered.

 

[TLOC]

This may surprise you, but 90% of the work was done with undiluted raw umber oil. I put "rust" dots on with a #0 round point shader, then pulled it down with #8 square tip shader. I came back and put a second dot where the original was.

Yep, surprised! You may next time want do the same as described above but use some odorless mineral spirits barely dampened on the end of a flat brush and pull down. You’ll get a few more streaks but it looks good to my eyes the way you did it

Have fun with the tank car.

David what brand of oil paints?

 

[Marlin39]

Yep, surprised! You may next time want do the same as described above but use some odorless mineral spirits barely dampened on the end of a flat brush and pull down. You’ll get a few more streaks but it looks good to my eyes the way you did it

Have fun with the tank car.

David what brand of oil paints?

Masters Touch

 

[moonlighting_racer]

The new paints look great, in the box. I won’t try new paints to me on commission weathering projects. I have not had time to do my own stuff so no testing yet. I will get to testing them probably in February on one of projects I have going, either a power plant wall or one of the paper mill structures

The Micro Mart paints are actually Vallejo Air rebranded for them. I use lots of Vallejo and Tamiya. What’s your complaints

I like the Micro Mark Air because its really thin and you can almost use it as a heavy wash. I also don't like that when I want good coverage...

The Tamiya is the opposite where it has great coverage, but is really viscous. And if I thin it, it seems to exacerbate its tendency to kinda separate as it sits. I usually just dip the brush in whatever is on the lid, but I have to reshake it pretty regularly, as it skins really quickly and once it does that, it seems like it sticks to the brush too much and lays down really unevenly.

It might be rose colored glasses from when I was a kid, but I never remember Polly or Testors being so tempermental. They'd brush, they'd spray, they'd dilute, whatever you needed. I think part of my spraying issues is I need a better compressor, but it seems like even with the Micro Mark, the dilution line between "good coverage" and "clogged" is pretty thin.

 

[Marlin39]

Car #2
Atlas Master Line Tank Car.

Before photo with 1 coat of Dull Coat

After applying Pan Pastel chalks and a final spray of Dull Coat

 

[TLOC]

I like the Micro Mark Air because its really thin and you can almost use it as a heavy wash. I also don't like that when I want good coverage...

The Tamiya is the opposite where it has great coverage, but is really viscous. And if I thin it, it seems to exacerbate its tendency to kinda separate as it sits. I usually just dip the brush in whatever is on the lid, but I have to reshake it pretty regularly, as it skins really quickly and once it does that, it seems like it sticks to the brush too much and lays down really unevenly.

It might be rose colored glasses from when I was a kid, but I never remember Polly or Testors being so tempermental. They'd brush, they'd spray, they'd dilute, whatever you needed. I think part of my spraying issues is I need a better compressor, but it seems like even with the Micro Mark, the dilution line between "good coverage" and "clogged" is pretty thin.

I use Tamiya Arcylics the XF line for my base coats and fading. I thin using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol usually a 9-1 ratio of thinner to paint. I spray at around 18psi give or take a couple psi. I honestly can’t remember a “dry tip” on the air brush spraying like this.

I spray xf86 flat base as my matte clear coat to seal the model. Thin it with x20a thinner from Tamiya usually 50/50 with the psi around 15 and spraying about 8” from the model

I use Vallejo Air, model colors and panzer aces lines in my commission weathering as brush on. I thin with the house tap water which is soften by salt. I do not spray Vallejo for any commission work.

When I build structures or bridges I will however spray the Vallejo Air straight out of the bottle to paint. The psi per my notes is typically around 22. I spray in a heated shop at 68f degrees with humidity around 40%. I occasionally will get tip dry but I keep a q-tip/ cotton swab tipped in IPA and will frequently clean the tip.

I mix paints, clear finishes and even spray cans on a Vortex mixer

Micro Mark Air is produced by Vallejo

My compressor is from Harbor Freight

I didn’t pay that a few years ago. My very loud Red Porter Cable pancake compressor gave up the ghost in the middle of a large commission weathering run. HomeDepot showed 2 of the California Air and I wanted it because they were super quiet but the inventory was wrong. My Fortress is super quiet so I’m happy .

Experiment with the psi settings. Make sure you have a good water trap on your air line.

Be well to All

 

[TLOC]

Car #2
Atlas Master Line Tank Car.

Before photo with 1 coat of Dull Coat

View attachment 255126

After applying Pan Pastel chalks and a final spray of Dull Coat

View attachment 255127View attachment 255128

David, tank cars are tough buggers but you’ve got a good start going. I’m surprised you went with Pan Pastels instead of your oils. PP in my opinion are really hard to use on tank cars. Oils will flow over the rounded tank more easily compared to powders or Pan Pastels. I find it difficult to drag PP straight down for streaks and pin pointing rust on rivet heads or joints where dirt and water may gather. I have cut down bristles on brushes to use PP and rub the rust color on those points I mentioned.

Usually on tank cars I will do the matte clear (dull) finish 1st. Then I will spray for a fade. You’ve done a nice job fading the white into a grayish coloring using your pan pastels. All your coloring looks very good.

 

[Marlin39]

David, tank cars are tough buggers but you’ve got a good start going. I’m surprised you went with Pan Pastels instead of your oils. PP in my opinion are really hard to use on tank cars. Oils will flow over the rounded tank more easily compared to powders or Pan Pastels. I find it difficult to drag PP straight down for streaks and pin pointing rust on rivet heads or joints where dirt and water may gather. I have cut down bristles on brushes to use PP and rub the rust color on those points I mentioned.

Usually on tank cars I will do the matte clear (dull) finish 1st. Then I will spray for a fade. You’ve done a nice job fading the white into a grayish coloring using your pan pastels. All your coloring looks very good.

Thanks Tom,
I was going for that first 5 minute rain after 6 weeks of nothing look. I was using some thin, wide, pointed sponges. It was a good first try. Boxcars are going to be a whole lot easier.....I think.

 

[TLOC]

Thanks Tom,
I was going for that first 5 minute rain after 6 weeks of nothing look. I was using some thin, wide, pointed sponges. It was a good first try. Boxcars are going to be a whole lot easier.....I think.

Some cars are harder than others. I have a friend who is a retired professional railroader and was also management executive staff. He told me one day after I proudly was showing him tank cars I had finished for a commission. Said my rust was wrong as a tank cars did not rust on top but it oxidized itself brown. I said ok, thanks for the advice and said the client loved them!

A few weeks later he’s over with a box of tank cars from his layout. He said while I put rust where he didn’t think there was rust he couldn’t weather the damn things and let me weather them. It’s rust to me but every OPS session that we both are signed up for he gives me 2 tank cars to weather.

Your next tank car, use your oils. Keep the streaks straight and while not thin not very wide. Fade the car using white or gray colored oils. Depends on what you have. Just have fun with and don’t seal it until you show off here! You may want to make adjustments

 

[C&OMtnMan]

Thanks for the responses and saving me from stepping in a big pile of #2.

One other real quick question. Are you guys using 70% or 91% ISO when mixing pigments & chalks?

I use 70%, because 99% evaporates too fast for me; I need a few seconds of working time.

 

[TLOC]

I will be very honest and tell you my weathering since my stroke in August 2024 while I feel still is good and honestly better than some of what is selling online is still not up to my standards prior to 8/2024. So I’ve had to make allowances. My wife is my most enthusiastic supporter but is also my biggest critic. She would look at a model and like it or not (dislikes my favorite, the rust bucket) would review for missing or incorrectness. When I tried in 10/24 to start weathering again it wasn’t good and her comments were overwhelming. So she created a check off list for me as to what she was looking for

Project Review Log

Unit________________ Reporting marks_______________
Owner ______________
Due date ____________
Review date _________

PHYSICS
[ ] Gravity: Vertical streaks/runs are 90° to the rail
[ ] Directionality: Grime follows the path of motion
[ ] Settling: Grime is in recesses, not just on flat faces

TEXTURE
[ ] Sheen Contrast: Mix of dead-flat, satin, and gloss
[ ] Scale Grain: Pigments/spray look like dust, not grit
[ ] Transparency: Lettering/paint visible through layers
[ ] Metallics: Worn edges look like metal, not silver paint

OPERATION

[ ] Touch Points: Wear on ladders, grabs, and handles
[ ] Kick-Up: Heaviest grime is on the lower sills/trucks
[ ] Roof/Exhaust: Logic-based soot or pooling water stains

MECHANICAL
[ ] Wheel Treads: Treads are clean and polished
[ ] Couplers: Knuckles/springs move freely
[ ] Optics: Windows and light lenses are crisp/clear

My wife is very organized and from that over the 54 years we’ve now been together and married 50 in September 2026 I have gotten better. But we had to re-organize my processes in my weathering not because I needed the commissions but I needed the involvement. So before she looks at EVERY model I weather I use the above check list before she does. Why, because it’s no longer second nature to me.

Maybe the list will help you in your weathering pursuits, it has in mine

 

[TLOC]

I keep this list handy. Compiled from others and basically my own experiences


WEATHERING TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

The "Cloudy/White" Clear Coat

The Issue: the matte or flat coat turned white or "frosty" upon drying

The Cause: High humidity, spraying too far away (paint drying in mid-air), or the mix wasn't shaken enough
The Fix: Apply a light coat of Gloss Clear over the white area; this often "re-wets" the finish and clears the cloudiness. Once dry and clear, re-apply your matte coat in a low-humidity environment

"Muddy" or Smearing Details

The Issue: the washes are smearing or turning into a solid brown mess

The Cause: Working the surface too much before the previous layer dried, or missing Save Point #2

The Fix: Stop immediately. Let it dry completely. Use a clean brush dampened with clean thinner (white spirits for oils, water/alcohol for acrylics) to gently "lift" the excess. Always wait for the "flash-off" (matte look) before adding more

Disappearing Powders

The Issue: The perfect soot/dust powders were applied, but they "vanished" after the final clear coat

The Cause: The clear coat was applied too "wet" or too close, soaking into the pigment and turning it transparent

The Fix: Apply pigments slightly heavier than you want the final result to look. When sealing, use "mist passes" from 12 inches away—the goal is to "dust" the model with sealer, not soak it

"Tide Lines" (Water Rings)

The Issue: The washes dried with a hard, dark crusty edge around the puddle

The Cause: Too much surface tension in the wash

The Fix: Add a tiny drop of "Flow Improver" or dish soap to your water-based washes to break the tension. To fix an existing line, use a brush dampened with thinner to gently "scrub" the hard edge and feather it out

Silvering Decals/Patches

The Issue: New reporting marks or modern safety stripes have a visible clear film edge

The Cause: Applying decals over a matte surface

The Fix: Always apply decals over a Gloss spot. If they are already silvering, try a tiny drop of decal solvent (like Micro-Sol). After it dries, the final matte "Save Point" should hide the film

Stuck Couplers or "Dead" Pickups

The Issue: The locomotive stutters or the couplers won't snap shut

The Cause: Over-spray or powder buildup

The Fix: Wheels: Use a Q-tip with 91% IPA to clean the wheel treads until the swab comes back white

Couplers: Use a dry "interdental brush" (tiny toothpick brush) to flick out stuck pigments. Use a puff of dry graphite (Grease-em) to restore movement


These are some issues I run into. These are MY SOLUTIONS and sometimes they don’t work but they usually do

I am still looking for the crazed paint fix other than stripping the model

The above are all good discussion points. If you have a different solution. Please SHARE IT

 

[TLOC]

This is my last list for today. I am working on a Clinic type presentation for a group of modelers at hobby shops in Wisconsin and Illinois. Nothing is finalized for dates but they are talking about in April or September!

I’m working on the bullet points of what will be a PowerPoint presentation plus a live weathering demonstration by my custom graffiti artist who will be helping me demonstrate

The idea is to show each step, she will weather the step while I present (talk). The sample will be many TBOX yellow 60’ box cars to show each step in the allotted 60 minutes

MASTER WEATHERING WORKFLOW: ANY SCALE

PHASE 1: PREP & FOUNDATION

Mechanical Check: Inspect for loose parts and test couplers
Deep Clean: Remove dust and skin oils

Save Point #1: Apply MATTE CLEAR. This protects the model and creates "tooth”

PHASE 2: THE LIQUID STAGE

Fading: Apply airbrush "bleach" or fade washes for sun-damage

Primary Colors: Paint wheel faces, exhaust stacks, and decks

Pin Wash: Apply dark washes to rivets, vents, and door tracks

Vertical Streaks: Apply rust or rain streaks (logic: 90° to the rail).

Save Point #2: Apply MATTE or SATIN CLEAR. This "locks" your liquid work

PHASE 3: TEXTURE & AIRBRUSH

The Kick-Up: Airbrush grime on the lower 1/4 of the body and trucks

Dry Work: Apply pigments/powders for soot, dust, and heavy rust

Highlights: Lightly dry-brush edges to "pop" detail

PHASE 4: REFINEMENT & FINISH

Luster Check: Apply Graphite/Silver to worn edges (bare metal look)

Grease/Oil: Apply Gloss spots to journals, fifth wheels, or spills

Save Point #3: Apply a mist of DEAD FLAT to secure powders

PHASE 5: FINAL QUALITY CONTROL (The Checklist)

[ ] Physics: Are all streaks vertical and soot patterns logical?

[ ] Sheen: Is there a realistic mix of flat, satin, and gloss surfaces?

[ ] Scale: Do the pigments look like dust rather than grit?

[ ] Transparency: Is the factory lettering still legible?

[ ] Operational: Are there wear marks on ladders and grab irons?

[ ] Mechanical: Are wheel treads, couplers, and glass perfectly clean?


Thoughts and comments?

 

[NWP Dave]

This morning's three posts are awesome. The troubleshooting guide is my favorite. Nothing like sharing experience.

 

[diesel]

Too bad there isn't a "resources" thread or "sticky posts" here. I'm cutting and pasting to a local file, but that's just me. Those, and a few others I've seen, are keepers.

 

[TLOC]

This morning's three posts are awesome. The troubleshooting guide is my favorite. Nothing like sharing experience.

Too bad there isn't a "resources" thread or "sticky posts" here. I'm cutting and pasting to a local file, but that's just me. Those, and a few others I've seen, are keepers.

Too bad there isn't a "resources" thread or "sticky posts" here. I'm cutting and pasting to a local file, but that's just me. Those, and a few others I've seen, are keepers.

Thank you both. That’s what this thread is about, SHARING.

 

[TLOC]

Too bad there isn't a "resources" thread or "sticky posts" here. I'm cutting and pasting to a local file, but that's just me. Those, and a few others I've seen, are keepers.

The thing here at Weathering Rolling Stock a Continuous Thread and at Tom’s CambriaArea 51 Locomotive continuous thread that we have in common is we are not preaching. If you don’t like weathering, graffiti whatever that’s fine. Model Railroading is a hobby so enjoy it your way!

That said I do get messages says I’m pushing an “agenda” and to those I do not reply and generally block them here. I get it, some don’t like Rust Buckets some hate graffiti. Other messages tell me I keep changing things and/or processes around. I do reply to those with an absolute, Yes I do. I’m always looking for a better technique, not necessarily cheaper or faster but more efficient.

This thread will be 4 years old come 2/28 and if you look at how I do things now from back in the beginning there are many differences.

Many times I have mentioned I thought maybe the thread has run its course and contemplated asking Terry to lock it. I was encouraged from the start by a now past/deceased member of the forum to post my weathering projects. Many of you have purchased my work, many of you have been very complementary about it and no one has bypassed the only rule: that being is criticism must be constructive.

I look forward to a few more months of continuing the thread and then re-evaluate as I’m been doing every few months the past couple years.

Unfortunately many of my commissions cannot be posted because the person has not given permission. Most want to post their own pictures 1st. I’m fine with that. My own work though has been few since 8/2024. Other than structure painting and weathering that I am doing for a friend and I do post that at the Swing Bridge, the Paper Mill and the Power plant threads not much personal stuff is happening.

I will do a post on a TBOX 60’ hi cube box car, maybe tonight.

I did a review of a car for Marlin39 and David it took it very well. So, it’s my turn. I will do a review using the information on how I review my work that I posted this morning that my wife did Wednesday this past week.

 

[TLOC]

Here’s my guidelines

Physics: Are all streaks vertical and soot patterns logical

Sheen: Is there a realistic mix of flat, satin, and gloss surfaces

Scale: Do the pigments look like dust rather than grit

Transparency: Is the factory lettering still legible

Operational: Are there wear marks on ladders and grab irons

Mechanical: Are wheel treads, couplers, and glass perfectly clean

As I mentioned in a post this morning, I needed help with my weathering. I was unhappy with the few I had been doing and asked my wife to help since she used to religiously look at my work in the past. But then it was looking for obvious misses. Now the entire process needs to be looked at. Nothing feels natural to me. So she is super organized, very efficient and does talk like she writes (she has a PhD). After a few discussions she came up with the list

Form your opinion then review my wife’s review in the following posting