Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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My main concern is that using alcohol as an acrylic craft paint thinner doesn't react with my matt clear finish. Is that just a general caution, or will it blow up my rolling stock on contact? lol

The main thing is to use a thinner compatible with the particular acrylic:

Vallejo and Mission Models are water-based acrylics, and thin well with water or with their brand’s thinner. I find water-based acrylics tend to “curdle” when attempting to thin with alcohol.

Tamiya is an alcohol-based thinner. (It’s some “industrial” alcohol put in at the factory, but isopropyl works satisfactorily as a user-added thinner.)

You also mentioned Model Master dull coat; Model Master is a Testors brand, and their dullcoat/dullcote is a laquer, which can be thinned with acetone.
 
The internet is behaving slowly and oddly where I am at right now, and I am responding to posts that have answers from others that are a few hours old, but they are loading only after I finish my replies.

I apologize for the series of redundant/superfluous replies I have been generating.
 
The internet is behaving slowly and oddly where I am at right now, and I am responding to posts that have answers from others that are a few hours old, but they are loading only after I finish my replies.

I apologize for the series of redundant/superfluous replies I have been generating.
Not a problem. This is a there are no issues thread. Keep posting please
 


I think I'm going to keep this one without a load. Super happy with how it turned out. I could feel myself gaining a dry brush skill point, and some new understanding about how it plays with the powders too. Still planning to do tie down straps and probably body mount couplers. Critiques welcomed and be mean if you want. The trucks aren't great but were what I had laying around for the picture.
this-one-might-stay-unloaded-v0-8whvawpoy4cg1.webp
this-one-might-stay-unloaded-v0-g8ulivpoy4cg1.webp
 
I think I'm going to keep this one without a load. Super happy with how it turned out. I could feel myself gaining a dry brush skill point, and some new understanding about how it plays with the powders too. Still planning to do tie down straps and probably body mount couplers. Critiques welcomed and be mean if you want. The trucks aren't great but were what I had laying around for the picture.View attachment 253841View attachment 253842
It looks good and NO ONE will be mean in this thread.

Constructive criticism is acceptable, meanness is not allowed! If someone doesn’t like it, fine tell us why but more importantly tell the thread viewers and poster how it can be made better. If not, keep it to yourself

Overall I like it. I think you’ll find how hard it is to find the stopping point. It’s easy to get lost in the rabbit hole of weathering. I am very heavy handed and tend towards heavy weathering. You have demonstrated you can stop. That said.

You have some bright spots

The Center Beam "Vents" The oval holes in the center partition often collect soot and grime because wind whistles through them at high speeds.
Apply a very thin black or dark brown wash just around the inner rim of those oval cutouts. Use whatever brand paints you have take say brown, thin it 10-1 with 1 being the paint and add it to the rim of the hole. If you have powders and you’ve matte clear coated the car use those. That will add depth and defines the structure of the beam

The lower 1/4th of the car usually catches a lot of dust and splatter from the track bed. Use an airbrush or a dry brush with a "Dirt" or "Light Mud" pigment or earth color paint. Focus heavily on the trucks (wheels) and the bottom side-sills. This blends the bright yellow car body into the grey ballast of your track, making the model look like it "belongs" on the rails rather than sitting on top of them.

Dry brush the floor of the car, either something dark earth color like or lightly scratch the floor and add a light rust wash.

Don’t take that wrong. I’d be proud to have your center beam run on my layout. Showing a car on a forum is scary and hopefully helpful.

As to the trucks and wheels. No one will say your right, wrong or crazy however you do these. Every rail car wheel set or truck frame can weather differently. I started out doing them with Pan Pastels, then Aryclic craft paint from Michael’s, to using my air brush.

Most important to me is start with a picture of the same type of car you have to weather. Same color is helpful but you are really looking for how the dirt gathers around the car. Where is the rust, there’s always rust but where is it?

If you go back over the previous 138 pages and I strong suggest it as there are some great ideas here. Overall though the theme is to have fun. If you don’t like it, start again. Unless it’s sealed most weathering will come off using isopropyl alcohol. Dont be afraid to find your way. Over these pages I and many others have shown or described our techniques. Use those as a guide and then develop what works for you. Based on info in these pages and CambriaArea51’s thread on locomotives I have made many adjustments to how I now weather compared to when I started this thread.

Great start!

Glad to have you along and post pictures, pictures and more pictures.

TomO
 
Thank you so much! This is exactly what I was looking for!
You have some bright spots
Yeah I noticed once I looked at the pictures closely, I assume you mean the sides of the floor ribs? I'm surprised I didn't get more powder on those, I was really jamming it in there.

The Center Beam "Vents" The oval holes in the center partition often collect soot and grime because wind whistles through them at high speeds.
Apply a very thin black or dark brown wash just around the inner rim of those oval cutouts. Use whatever brand paints you have take say brown, thin it 10-1 with 1 being the paint and add it to the rim of the hole. If you have powders and you’ve matte clear coated the car use those. That will add depth and defines the structure of the beam
I noticed that a lot on the truss cars but less on the opera window ones. That's a good suggestion though. I haven't sealed this one yet so I can add it.

The lower 1/4th of the car usually catches a lot of dust and splatter from the track bed. Use an airbrush or a dry brush with a "Dirt" or "Light Mud" pigment or earth color paint. Focus heavily on the trucks (wheels) and the bottom side-sills. This blends the bright yellow car body into the grey ballast of your track, making the model look like it "belongs" on the rails rather than sitting on top of them.
I always spray a little dust on my boxes, hoppers, and well cars, but I was a little worried it would be too much on a flat car. aka it would just be all dust. I gave it a very light hit of darker powder but sounds like I should've gone a little harder.

Dry brush the floor of the car, either something dark earth color like or lightly scratch the floor and add a light rust wash.
I very lightly dry brushed a few spots, but yeah looking at it now it could probably use more. I struggled to find good pictures of the floors on the prototypes. The 2 I found, one had a pretty clean floor, and one was 100% rust. 100% rust makes sense since they're getting hit with forklift arms constantly. I probably should've at least completely brushed the ribs to rust.

Don’t take that wrong. I’d be proud to have your center beam run on my layout. Showing a car on a forum is scary and hopefully helpful.
Aww thanks, this is the first one that I've been like "this is actually pretty good." I'll post the box car patch outs I was working on, but I wasn't super happy with them and my general frustion with them contributed to me not doing much work the in the fall.

As to the trucks and wheels. No one will say your right, wrong or crazy however you do these. Every rail car wheel set or truck frame can weather differently. I started out doing them with Pan Pastels, then Aryclic craft paint from Michael’s, to using my air brush.
I've gotten better at them, my more recent ones have a lot more depth and texture. This was an older set.

Most important to me is start with a picture of the same type of car you have to weather. Same color is helpful but you are really looking for how the dirt gathers around the car. Where is the rust, there’s always rust but where is it?
I try to do this religiously. I think that's where a lot of folks go astray.

If you go back over the previous 138 pages and I strong suggest it as there are some great ideas here. Overall though the theme is to have fun. If you don’t like it, start again. Unless it’s sealed most weathering will come off using isopropyl alcohol. Dont be afraid to find your way. Over these pages I and many others have shown or described our techniques. Use those as a guide and then develop what works for you. Based on info in these pages and CambriaArea51’s thread on locomotives I have made many adjustments to how I now weather compared to when I started this thread.
Been keeping track of this thread for a few months now. I've learned a ton! I posted some well cars in the spring, but had a bit of a production lull this fall. I have an old Atlas SD50 that is going to be my first locomotive victim, but I'm still not quite there yet.
 
Are you missing the old Floquil line of solvent based paints because it dried dead flat. I don’t but I’ll try a new (to me) line of Acrylic water based paints. Created because the producers of the Star War movies needed a Floquil replacement to match everytime. So they created a Floquil replacement paint but instead of being solvent based its water based.

I purchased a few bottles to play with

IMG_3953.png


As I use them. I will let you know

I asked Google Gemini to do a cost comparison

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I received my paints last week and will be trying them over the next few days
 
I'm going to make my first attempt at freight car weathering using artists oils. One question though.

Do you prefer to thin them with lacquer thinner or mineral spirits?

Thanks
 


Thanks for the responses and saving me from stepping in a big pile of #2.

One other real quick question. Are you guys using 70% or 91% ISO when mixing pigments & chalks?
 
99% Iso here, from the pharmacy. In reality, alcohol will absorb moisture from the air when the bottle is opened, so it will end up slightly less than that, but you need the purity for it to fast dry. In some cases, 70% will leave "splotches" of H2O because water doesn't dry as fast as alcohol.
 
WIP, added a little powder in the windows after I took these and its definitely an improvement. Really went hard on the floor vs the other one since that's how the prototype was. I didn't quite mean too, but I thought my drybrushing looked really streaky and brushed on even after the following wash, and when I went back over it again it ended up basically solid rust. The plan is to add a little dust to the bottom too when I bust out the airbrush.

I also messed up because I thought all the gray/white patches were primer but I saw one in person over the weekend and realized they're little bits of the plastic coverings on the payload. So note to self, add those last not first next time. I think the effect is still pretty good though. I accidentally won another 4 of these on ebay over the weekend so I'll get to try my hand at some truss ones too.
more-centerbeam-weathering-v0-3isq9a06jbeg1.webp
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more-centerbeam-weathering-v0-ly71f906jbeg1.webp
 
Thanks for the responses and saving me from stepping in a big pile of #2.

One other real quick question. Are you guys using 70% or 91% ISO when mixing pigments & chalks?
Either in my case. While I prefer the 91% concentration I have used the 70% mainly during Covid when I think people were drinking the damn stuff for protection. Must have been told by a politician to do it. Any concentration was hard to find. I actually didn’t think there was any real difference, 70% just has more water.

If you need to strip paint I use 91% or the now rare 99% IPA. 70% because of the water just takes too long
 
WIP, added a little powder in the windows after I took these and its definitely an improvement. Really went hard on the floor vs the other one since that's how the prototype was. I didn't quite mean too, but I thought my drybrushing looked really streaky and brushed on even after the following wash, and when I went back over it again it ended up basically solid rust. The plan is to add a little dust to the bottom too when I bust out the airbrush.

I also messed up because I thought all the gray/white patches were primer but I saw one in person over the weekend and realized they're little bits of the plastic coverings on the payload. So note to self, add those last not first next time. I think the effect is still pretty good though. I accidentally won another 4 of these on ebay over the weekend so I'll get to try my hand at some truss ones too.
View attachment 254900View attachment 254901View attachment 254902
View attachment 254903
Accidentally won on EBay! Good line…

This car is nicely done. I really love that last picture as I love rust
IMG_4242.webp


The "Tree Source" Fading: The way the white lettering is starting to thin out and let the red base show through is spot on. It looks like sun-bleached vinyl or paint

Color Tone: You’ve captured that "oxidized" pinkish-red that these cars get after years in the sun. It isn't just "red"; it has that chalky, dusty quality

Floor Texture: The deck looks heavy and metallic. The transition from the red of the risers to the grime on the floor creates a nice sense of weight

Stencil Detail: Keeping the small data patches (like the "WCRC 7443") legible while weathering around them adds a high level of realism


Suggestions

Rust Pitting: Use a very fine brush to add tiny "micro-dots" of a dark burnt sienna or track brown. Focus these at the joints where the vertical beams meet the floor—water settles there and creates deep rust

Chipping Consistency: In the first photo, the silver/light grey "chips" on the vertical ribs are a bit uniform in size and placement. Real-world chipping on centerbeams usually happens where the fork truck blades hit the car or where the lumber bundles rub. Try to concentrate more damage on the edges of the risers rather than the flat faces. But you say these may actually be the covering from the loads. I’ve seen the plastic covering on the ribs on the center beam. So depending on if they are chips they are very nicely done but too consistent. If it’s the plastic covering wearing off and staying behind they are excellent.

Again, another car I’d be proud to operate across my layout

Do you have an industry on your layout for center beams? These cars will look great in a scene by themselves

When I did my first center beam I had just finished up a run of pulp wood cars and figured it wasn’t going to be that much different. It was especially the opera window center beams. Every car is different and even the same car in the same color from the same manufacturer will react differently. Getting the window edging worn enough to be noticeable but not overwhelming was and still is difficult for me. I love your improvement on how you did from the 1st one you showed to this one.

Advice is exactly that, take it or leave it. It’s always easy to coach from the stands where all the experts are then it is on the field level. I hope you understand that my suggestions are from lessons I’ve learned and hopefully remember

But I hope you’ll find ( and others) here that advice given is from experience. Is it right? Not always because no 2 cars again, will react the same. By time you finish those eBay wins you’ll understand when that 4th car looks great and you feel that you just went and did it without thinking about it
 
Accidentally won on EBay! Good line…
I put in a "dollar over" bid so the app would track it, then I ended up winning twice! Which makes up for being violently outbid on a couple sets of no FRA stripe CSX Grain Express hoppers over the weekend. The third pair of centerbeams I was watching went for $90(!!) so I don't know how the other 2 pairs got overlooked.

The "Tree Source" Fading: The way the white lettering is starting to thin out and let the red base show through is spot on. It looks like sun-bleached vinyl or paint
Just the lightest hit of powder over them. I'm not sure it'll survive the final clear coat.

Color Tone: You’ve captured that "oxidized" pinkish-red that these cars get after years in the sun. It isn't just "red"; it has that chalky, dusty quality
The prototype is really red though. The fade looked really good initially but close up is still a little frosty. Tried to blend it with the powders the best I could.

Floor Texture: The deck looks heavy and metallic. The transition from the red of the risers to the grime on the floor creates a nice sense of weight
Yeah was mega happy with it even if its really heavy.

Stencil Detail: Keeping the small data patches (like the "WCRC 7443") legible while weathering around them adds a high level of realism
Again, just powder.

Suggestions

Rust Pitting: Use a very fine brush to add tiny "micro-dots" of a dark burnt sienna or track brown. Focus these at the joints where the vertical beams meet the floor—water settles there and creates deep rust
Ohhhh I like that...

Chipping Consistency: In the first photo, the silver/light grey "chips" on the vertical ribs are a bit uniform in size and placement. Real-world chipping on centerbeams usually happens where the fork truck blades hit the car or where the lumber bundles rub. Try to concentrate more damage on the edges of the risers rather than the flat faces. But you say these may actually be the covering from the loads. I’ve seen the plastic covering on the ribs on the center beam. So depending on if they are chips they are very nicely done but too consistent. If it’s the plastic covering wearing off and staying behind they are excellent.
Noted, they're all roughtly brush sized...I need to try to vary a little more. It works okay as the plastic covering but that wasn't the intent.

Again, another car I’d be proud to operate across my layout
<3 That's the goal. I might end up selling 1 or 2 of the ebay ones once I'm done with them.
Do you have an industry on your layout for center beams? These cars will look great in a scene by themselves
I only have a little shelf layout (condo life) though I'm (very slowly) working on a slightly larger one (glued track but have a lot of ballasting to do which I don't particularly enjoy). I've been meaning to go visit one of the clubs in the area and bring some rolling stock, but I've got a toddler so weekends are pretty busy. Idk if it's weird to just pop in and be like "hey can I run these?"

When I did my first center beam I had just finished up a run of pulp wood cars and figured it wasn’t going to be that much different. It was especially the opera window center beams. Every car is different and even the same car in the same color from the same manufacturer will react differently. Getting the window edging worn enough to be noticeable but not overwhelming was and still is difficult for me. I love your improvement on how you did from the 1st one you showed to this one.
The goal is to get better, and I do my best to match prototypes but the experienced hands will notice details I might miss. Can't get better if nobody critiques. Learned a lot even between these 2 cars. The feedback is extremely appreciated!

Also, hows the new paints? I have a mix of Tamiya and Micro Mark but have complaints about both.
 






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