C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
You’re the second guy in this forum to say that! I posted that last photo here once before.
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
- Thread starter TLOC
- Start date
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You’re the second guy in this forum to say that! I posted that last photo here once before.
Because these TBOX cars were built in 2011 prototype pictures really vary with the weathering. My personal cars are probably too dirty but it’s what I like! The only constant though on the prototype is that they are graffitied covered.
Both cars were put on FB last night and they sold a couple hours ago. The one I am working on now is custom graffiti, not decaled!
I also like the heavier stuff on my layout. Also prototypical when you're modelling part of Conrail's Kaleidoscope era. I did a set of Walthers 305' thrall 48' well cars light. Bugging me too much. I mean, the prototype is heavier than what I have now, just debating on more airbrush, or move on to the Tamiya powders. I still need to get new applicators for that stuff.
I wish I had the room to do the curves I want. Limited to a full room shelf layout, 53 inch height; Hinged shelves on both doorways, and soon to be removable 4 foot bridge across the window.
I'll post the prototype pics of those Thrall cars and a pic of where I'm at in a few.
-RC
Actually may look better when you add more weathering. Kinda cool looking I have to admit.
I gotta agree. I think there is great potential for the rescued version to be better.
I really liked this car but over aggressive use of Isopropyl Alcohol and a bad attitude towards this car just made it super worst
I have put it aside and moved along to 5 other cars (all mine). I won’t touch a commissioned car at least until Tuesday. I can always adjust and play with my mistakes. Client cars I cannot afford issues…
The above 5 are works in process, some were started awhile back and not finished.
Model railroading is fun!
Sometimes…
Try a light rust (Vallejo Panzer Aces #301) applied as a streak and let dry, maybe 30 minutes and possibly less. Take a darker rust (I use Vallejo Air Burnt Umber) and with a brush apply a dot to the inside of the light rust streak. Pull it down quickly with either a slightly damp (not wet) micro brush or a finger tip while it’s still wet. Practice it on an old model though first.
Or take a micron fine point brown marker, apply as a streak or a scratch. Take a dry flat brush and pull down. Again practice first
I know you said you don’t weather the underside, but I think it has a good rusty look.
Presuming your dissatisfaction is with the blue sides, try a thinned spray of Vallejo burnt umber. For rust streaks with substantial texture, try unthinned artist oil, burnt umber and raw umber colors. Unthinned, it will be tacky for a couple of days at least without applied heat or drying).
Come back the next day and apply suitably colored pastel chalks or weathering powders to the areas done in oil. You can dab it on, but my best results come from flicking the bristles & chalk dust at the damp/tacky oil-painted spot.
Lots of ways so if you have some way u like to do it, POST IT, please
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You’re the second guy in this forum to say that! I posted that last photo here once before.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I wanted to run modern equipment on my layout. 60’ box cars the Plate F high cubes I like to see and I have way too many of them. The 82’ reefers look good on my curves and that’s what I really wanted besides reliable operations that the big cars looked good on the curves. The 53’ well cars are slowly being sold off, only because I no longer run through trains on the layout!
Because these TBOX cars were built in 2011 prototype pictures really vary with the weathering. My personal cars are probably too dirty but it’s what I like! The only constant though on the prototype is that they are graffitied covered.
Both cars were put on FB last night and they sold a couple hours ago. The one I am working on now is custom graffiti, not decaled!
RC Perspective
Conrail HO 80s-90s+
It just seems like a great challenge, that's all.
I knew those wouldn't take long at all to find a home. You do phenominal work!
I also like the heavier stuff on my layout. Also prototypical when you're modelling part of Conrail's Kaleidoscope era. I did a set of Walthers 305' thrall 48' well cars light. Bugging me too much. I mean, the prototype is heavier than what I have now, just debating on more airbrush, or move on to the Tamiya powders. I still need to get new applicators for that stuff.
I wish I had the room to do the curves I want. Limited to a full room shelf layout, 53 inch height; Hinged shelves on both doorways, and soon to be removable 4 foot bridge across the window.
I'll post the prototype pics of those Thrall cars and a pic of where I'm at in a few.
-RC
RC Perspective
Conrail HO 80s-90s+
RC Perspective
Conrail HO 80s-90s+
Forgot to post these last night. Prototype photo credit to qstation.org , Gregg Fuhriman.
Cars A, B and C
All I've done so far, was super diluted white airbrush to fade, which wound up getting wiped out by the following diluted Smoke airbrush. Airbrushed from upside down, in the direction the spray would represent on the cars in the prototype. Both Vallejo mixed with 91% Isopropyl. The bogies are straight from the bottle Tamiya Black panel liner, 3 coats. Wheels brushed on with Red primer and German Dark Brown.
Nowhere near complete, suggestions welcome.
I was thinking going back in on the fade with the Tamiya Snow weathering powder. I feel I can better highlight those areas AFTER the bulk of the weathering is finished to better match the prototype. I can also add a little to the bogies to closer match the prototype as well. I have not weathered the tops yet; Have not yet found some topside photos of these.
-RC
Edit - I just remembered Google Maps. When I have some downtime I'll look at some shots of IM yards. Sure I'll find some there. I also have a set of blue Conrail Spine Cars to weather as well.
Cars A, B and C
All I've done so far, was super diluted white airbrush to fade, which wound up getting wiped out by the following diluted Smoke airbrush. Airbrushed from upside down, in the direction the spray would represent on the cars in the prototype. Both Vallejo mixed with 91% Isopropyl. The bogies are straight from the bottle Tamiya Black panel liner, 3 coats. Wheels brushed on with Red primer and German Dark Brown.
Nowhere near complete, suggestions welcome.
I was thinking going back in on the fade with the Tamiya Snow weathering powder. I feel I can better highlight those areas AFTER the bulk of the weathering is finished to better match the prototype. I can also add a little to the bogies to closer match the prototype as well. I have not weathered the tops yet; Have not yet found some topside photos of these.
-RC
Edit - I just remembered Google Maps. When I have some downtime I'll look at some shots of IM yards. Sure I'll find some there. I also have a set of blue Conrail Spine Cars to weather as well.
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Alcomotive
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
Actually may look better when you add more weathering. Kinda cool looking I have to admit.
C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
I gotta agree. I think there is great potential for the rescued version to be better.
C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
Now, silly question time: was that due to spillage and splashing, or caused by concentrated vapors from the open bottle?
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I can't remember when I last posted on this thread, been a while.
I received two Everest Well cars and this is the first of them, as I said in the RPO not well detailed (for $12 you can't expect museum quality) but they run really well.
Weathered the interior and trucks, the exterior will have some fading and light weathering applied after the decals have been added, and no, I don't weather the underside.
No matter how I try, getting a decent rusty look still eludes me.
I received two Everest Well cars and this is the first of them, as I said in the RPO not well detailed (for $12 you can't expect museum quality) but they run really well.
Weathered the interior and trucks, the exterior will have some fading and light weathering applied after the decals have been added, and no, I don't weather the underside.
No matter how I try, getting a decent rusty look still eludes me.
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
Big bottle of IPA knocked over while packaging the 2 rail cars. Major splashes on one side of the car. I had just filled the bottles on the right as one is a spray pump and the other has a drip cap on it. The smaller bottles are much easier for me to use.
I really liked this car but over aggressive use of Isopropyl Alcohol and a bad attitude towards this car just made it super worst
I have put it aside and moved along to 5 other cars (all mine). I won’t touch a commissioned car at least until Tuesday. I can always adjust and play with my mistakes. Client cars I cannot afford issues…
The above 5 are works in process, some were started awhile back and not finished.
Model railroading is fun!
Sometimes…
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Need rusty rust?
Try a light rust (Vallejo Panzer Aces #301) applied as a streak and let dry, maybe 30 minutes and possibly less. Take a darker rust (I use Vallejo Air Burnt Umber) and with a brush apply a dot to the inside of the light rust streak. Pull it down quickly with either a slightly damp (not wet) micro brush or a finger tip while it’s still wet. Practice it on an old model though first.
Or take a micron fine point brown marker, apply as a streak or a scratch. Take a dry flat brush and pull down. Again practice first
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Thanks Tom, I'll try that.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I dunno about the mistake cars, put them next to a cement works and they'll look perfect
TLOC
Well-Known Member
No cement plants on the layout.
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
You can try the burnt umber as Tom suggested. Buy painting the wheel face it'll give it that two tone look giving dimension. A couple examples.
RC Perspective
Conrail HO 80s-90s+
RC Perspective
Conrail HO 80s-90s+
These are some of my very first weathering projects.
Converted a couple TYCO cars to screw in bogies, (I designed a glue-in, 3d printed adaptor, to convert snap-in bogies to screw in; It's free, so let me know if you want the link to the file), and mounted coupler pockets to the car body.
Then I used Vallejo Smoke thinned down in the airbrush with IPA, and gave the cars a grime coat. The roof is done with a mix of panel liner in black and brown. Here was an experiment; I left the dust on the top of the car to wick the panel liner into.
Forgot to mention, details were hit with Tamiya Brown panel liner, and cleaned up with X20 on a fine tipped q-tip.
Last but not least, oil paint for the rust streaking. Dot, drag down with a clean brush, then apply weathering powder in rust and orange rust. Sealed with Mr Super Matte Clear.
-RC
Converted a couple TYCO cars to screw in bogies, (I designed a glue-in, 3d printed adaptor, to convert snap-in bogies to screw in; It's free, so let me know if you want the link to the file), and mounted coupler pockets to the car body.
Then I used Vallejo Smoke thinned down in the airbrush with IPA, and gave the cars a grime coat. The roof is done with a mix of panel liner in black and brown. Here was an experiment; I left the dust on the top of the car to wick the panel liner into.
Forgot to mention, details were hit with Tamiya Brown panel liner, and cleaned up with X20 on a fine tipped q-tip.
Last but not least, oil paint for the rust streaking. Dot, drag down with a clean brush, then apply weathering powder in rust and orange rust. Sealed with Mr Super Matte Clear.
-RC
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C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
I know you said you don’t weather the underside, but I think it has a good rusty look.
Presuming your dissatisfaction is with the blue sides, try a thinned spray of Vallejo burnt umber. For rust streaks with substantial texture, try unthinned artist oil, burnt umber and raw umber colors. Unthinned, it will be tacky for a couple of days at least without applied heat or drying).
Come back the next day and apply suitably colored pastel chalks or weathering powders to the areas done in oil. You can dab it on, but my best results come from flicking the bristles & chalk dust at the damp/tacky oil-painted spot.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Another good way to do rust.
Lots of ways so if you have some way u like to do it, POST IT, please
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)