Weathering Engines a Continuous thread.

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Lastly airbrushed some grimy black around exhaust and radiator intakes. Another light coat of rust then a mix of dirt and light brown. I'm calling it done. Page 4 of RR picture archives is what I was looking at.
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Besides working on Intermodal Well cars I have a few diesels in process. Here are 2 of the 3.

A Athearn Genesis PHL Sd40 that until tonight was going to just be faded with some heavier grime on the front plow and side frames. Here’s the model, lightly faded after the matte clear finish was added
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Here is what the client now wants. The change is my own fault as I told him a couple months ago I didn’t think enough of the locomotive’s character shows up in just a faded diesel.

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He agreed. The rust and grime will be done with washes.

The next diesel up is for ME and my Wisconsin River Valley & Terminal RR. It’s a Bowser CM & Q Sd40-2f that wanted for a few years but was too cheap to buy at the listed prices. A few weeks ago this unit was discounted at Lombard Hobby and I bit.

The colors are correct but I needed to remove the Central Maine and Quebec lettering. The usual methods didn’t work so out came the erase. There is some marking where too much paint was removed but it’s under the lettering and I will incorporate it into some of the streaking

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I hit it hard tonight with 4 different spraying of a matte clear coat allowing 15 minutes dry time between sprays but I took no picture after the final spray. This unit will get worked on again tomorrow afternoon
 
Sometimes things don’t alway work out. I have had matte clear coats explode on me, I have a had run marks after spraying it but never on the same spray.

The engineer side of my own Sd40-2f is a mess. The conductor side isn’t much better. I don’t want to strip this unit down though I do have extra decals. My goal here was to use the black panel liner that when cleaned off left the body of the unit grimy with a blackish/gray haze. The wheels and trucks would have a reddish staring to rust look.

I walked away as I was letting another diesel unit dry. Now that I have eaten dinner and it’s about 4 hours I may go back to the bench

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After cleaning, inspecting, masking and matte clear coating the sd40-2f, I let it dry for a few days. I hand brushed the Tamiya black panel liner across all the lines and let it wick to wherever it wanted to go. No worries about over doing it as the excess is easy to clean and I was looking for the worn out old grime look on the body behind the cab. Clean up was with odorless turpentine. The roof had been faded with my standard xf2 white and Isopropyl Alcohol about 20% paint to IPA.

I am tempted to break out the Tamiya flat clear base x-21 and brush it on for overnight drying, just to see what happens. If I have to strip it that would happen on Sunday
 


I don’t want to strip this unit down though I do have extra decals.

Man, now THERE is a tidbit I wish I knew about 48 hours before you posted!

All these times reading about “starting over” by soaking a model in 99% isopropyl alcohol, thought the process merely included starting over.

Soon, I will post a sordid tale what foul fate befell me in the rolling stock thread.
 
Good Monday morning. I’m trying to get back into a modeling mood. It’s going to be very warm this week, I have weathering to get back to including some of my own

The Sd40-2f that I was weathering a couple weeks ago is still at the bench, stripped of any weathering but needs to be worked on

I sent out 2 new of my own Gp40-2L’s to be stripped and painted into my new Wisconsin Interstate railroad. I can’t wait to get those back, hopefully in September. I have another Sd40 for the Pacific Harbor Lines I have been weathering that needs pictures and just needs a clear coat to finish it off

These went off to the painter:
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I received the stripped picture this morning. Both are Athearn Genesis units from Lombard Hobby that were on a super sale in August. Instead of stripping 2 of my 5 CN units I purchased new!

The Sd40-2f unit had a foggy haze after weathering. Anything I tried seemed to make it worst. So I took down the weathering working a tad harder where the hazing on the cab and side panels in front of the word Valley were. Since both sides were bad I needed to start the process over

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This is the second PHL unit #67 I will have worked on this Summer. Here is an in process picture of the 1st unit that went out to a LA Harbor modeler in Venice, Ca. This will be sent just a few miles away from the 1st modeler, to Santa Monica. They have not yet met!

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Hello fellow weathers, model railroaders and anyone else that stops by to read or look at pictures. All is good! Happy Labor Day!

3 diesels are on the bench today. Wisconsin River Valley’s Sd40-2f, PHL’s Sd40 and a new one, a S-2 switcher that is according to the wife’s record keeping, commission diesel #126 I will have weathered when I get it done. Other than 2 units of 5 for 1 client the Summer of 2023, it’s been fun

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Today, I will add some more rust to PHL #67. The owner has been mulling this over and wants more on the trucks and front plow area. I also noticed the nose rust didn’t streak, so I will fix that. As with all 1st time commission clients I send too many pictures until I get a feel for what they want. I prefer they tell me before they get it home on the layout and say, we needed to do this…

The WRV&T owner is a tough one (me). He likes rust and dirt and has to be held back by being told to look at the pictures. But IMO the front plow needs more rust and it will get it.

SP#1780 is a new commission client and this is only my 2nd 4 axle switcher to be weathered. 4 or 6 axle the techniques are the same, it’s just a smaller unit! I have already washed the body with a liquid dish soap and warm water. It has dried over night and today I will just mask the windows

I use Tamiya masking tape for all windows and occasionally masking body sections.
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There are a variety of tools to use when masking. Tape of course I mostly use 2 sizes. 10mm and 6 mm but I also have 18mm that I mainly use on structures. I use tweezers, an Exacto blade in a Fiskars holder, tweezers, a paint brush, a rubbing tool (the blue thing on the left in the picture) and sometimes a cotton bud/q-tip. Glass and lights only on the S-2 will get masked

Maybe pictures later today but for sure on Wednesday! Tuesday we are heading to Rochelle Railroad Park for about an hour as I need pictures for an upcoming UP diesel project and graffiti pictures for a couple custom painted graffiti box cars. When it comes to custom graffiti I need pictures. My graffiti imagination runs to boxes and circles. This guy wants something that will call out his name! Here’s hoping! An hour of time at Rochelle will probably get me 4 maybe 5 trains across the diamonds. For sure 1/2 will be intermodal. After time at the park we will head back into Rockford, Illinois to the Japanese garden for lunch, a tour and time with a good couple of old friends. We may have dinner at the new Hardrock Casino off of I90 where the Clock Tower resort was for as long as I can remember. It opened last week! Maybe a few slots after…
 
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Went out and cut the grass. Came back on, looked at the bench and told myself later! Now I’m on the porch.

I accidentally opened up the 1st pages of this thread. Just a great idea by Tom (CambriaArea51). I want to thank him and the Crew that follows this thread and thanks for all the comments the last couple of years. As I wrote previously the S-2 is commission #126 for diesels. If it hadn’t been for the late Greg@Mrmn I wouldn’t be selling weathered freight cars. Without your encouragement and help I wouldn’t be starting diesel #126.

As most of you know I was very busy for about a year and had to cut back. I now only take in 1 diesel a week to weather and no more than 12 freight cars a week. It’s a hobby and I really enjoy weathering as part of the hobby. It’s not a job and I treat every model like it’s my own. So thank you for your help and encouragement
 
Went out and cut the grass. Came back on, looked at the bench and told myself later! Now I’m on the porch.

I accidentally opened up the 1st pages of this thread. Just a great idea by Tom (CambriaArea51). I want to thank him and the Crew that follows this thread and thanks for all the comments the last couple of years. As I wrote previously the S-2 is commission #126 for diesels. If it hadn’t been for the late Greg@Mrmn I wouldn’t be selling weathered freight cars. Without your encouragement and help I wouldn’t be starting diesel #126.

As most of you know I was very busy for about a year and had to cut back. I now only take in 1 diesel a week to weather and no more than 12 freight cars a week. It’s a hobby and I really enjoy weathering as part of the hobby. It’s not a job and I treat every model like it’s my own. So thank you for your help and encouragement
It may not be your current profession, but you do professional work. I'm looking forward to the S-2 and cars.
 
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The Sd40 PHL model is back on the shelf and not heading to Long Beach, Ca. I notified my client and than emailed customer service at Athearn about an issue with the diesel. The drive shaft on the front truck assembly drops out of the coupling when the diesel is put in reverse

This is a brand new locomotive shipped directly to me for the client by Athearn.

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it is very frustrating and I have tried to fix it. Now it’s time to see what Athearn says
 
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The Sd40 PHL model is back on the shelf and not heading to Long Beach, Ca. I notified my client and than emailed customer service at Athearn about an issue with the diesel. The drive shaft on the front truck assembly drops out of the coupling when the diesel is put in reverse

This is a brand new locomotive shipped directly to me for the client by Athearn.

View attachment 198808it is very frustrating and I have tried to fix it. Now it’s time to see what Athearn says

Well, send it back without the custom-weathered shell; I’ve heard horror stories.
 
Hey how's everyone?
It's been a busy summer for me. Sorry I haven't posted much, looks like there's lots of good stuff going on here though, nice stuff everyone!
I just picked up this recent release of the ONR SD40-2 by Bowser a couple of weeks ago.
I couldn't wait to get into it with this bad boy! I started last weekend and finished up this morning.

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First thing's first, I gave the new loco a coat of Testor's Dullcote.

I started by airbrushing the front and rear intake filter intake grills with the XF-1 and then cleaned the rears up a bit with some IPA, I thought they were maybe a little to dark... I'll touch those up later though. I then did all the panel lines on the long hood sides with Tamiya's Panel Line Paint (black).
I also played around with some 70% IPA and removed some of the ONR logo, I didn't want to go much further with that side, and just left the other side alone. That whitish chalky look from the IPA will disappear with a coat of the Dullcote.

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I then next started on roof side of the unit. I applied a light wash with the Nato Black and just straight water applied with a brush, and streaked it downwards on the sloped roof detail on both sides of the cab, I also added some small rust spots with the Burnt Umber on the cab roof and did some rusty panel door hinge and air filter grill effects also on the both long hood sides.

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I also did the nose and front pilot, and rear pilot and end panels with the black wash and did the Nato black, and Burnt Umber wash on the pilots.

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Next was to give the model another coat of the Dullcote.

For the sides I next mixed up some Tamiya XF-64 to a thin mixture using 50% IPA. I gave both sides of the long hood, trucks and fuel tank a light spray with this.
Next was to shoot the trucks with some XF-80, followed by some XF-64 and some XF-1,lightly to blend it all in together.

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Next was to lightly airbrush some diesel soot on the roof and along the long hood top edges and just into the snow shields but no further.
The last thing I airbrushed on was some road spray along the sill edges using some XF-59.
Also added some Black Panel line paint to the hand railing stanchions

I then gave the unit it's last coat of Dullcote.

Last thing to apply was some weathering powders. I generally use these in and around the truck details, steps and walkways and fuel tank. Sometimes I will apply the Black Panel Line paint to the side walkways to simulate spilled engine oil stains as I did here.

Actually the last thing I did was apply a tad of some gloss black enamel below the fuel filler cap, on the tank for spilled fuel.

That is pretty well it.

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Enjoy.
Z
 
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Good Monday morning from between tests at the Clinic

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I lightly faded this SP S-2 diesel a couple weeks ago. Saturday I worked on adding a light rust to the grills and them truck frames on the engineer side of the unit.

After the above pictures I added a light rust to railings and more rust to the front big grill set. The cab looks better in person than this picture. That will be blended better with another fade coat that will be added to the unit. I doubt this side needs any more rust but I will be blending that big grill more eveningly as it now maybe a touch too dark

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While there are not a ton of pictures out there James (Alcomotive) sent me some very helpful color pictures. Again a reminder I use pictures as inspiration unless a client tells me to duplicate it
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The picture of inspiration is credited within the frame of the picture but Railpictures.net has been very helpful in the past

The model will have a lighter fade than the dark gray in the above prototype picture but you hopefully can see where the lightly rusted grills are inspired from. The Southern Pacific lettering will be darkened up a touch. The cab roof will not be rusted anywhere near what the above picture shows

The fade is Tamiya xf-2 at about 10% to 90% thinner plus 2 drops of x-21 Flat base mixed into the mix.

The light rust is Panzer Aces by Vallejo #301 light rust 50/50 mix to tap water added with a brush. Applied and immediately blotted with a Q-tip

Please let me know your thoughts on this.

Unless the doctors immediately find something correctable I will be back at the bench on the 9/25. Meanwhile they just delivered me a jello snack.

The other inspiration in the Proto picture are the tracks. Those are perfect for my pulp and woodchip tracks…
 




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