Types of N Scale Track

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RxROtto

New Member
Is there one track better than another?
I am doing a research on the different types of track to use on my N scale layout. I have seen many types of different track from different companies is there really one that is the best or is it a personal preference? Is the brass better than the silver or the steel? I am also assuming that the main line rails are taller than what you would use on a spur.

Thanks Again

RxROtto
 
Brass is older stuff and steel can rust, these days it's all about the nickel silver. The tracks don't actually contain any silver (imagine the prices if it did!), the name just comes from the colour of the metal which is actually a copper alloy.

You have no doubt come across track of different codes by now, notably code 80 and code 55 for N scale. The code defines how high the rail sits in relation to the sleepers. Code 55 is (AFAIK) newer and the height of the rail is more inline with the prototype, however some old models have large "pizza cutter" flanges that were not designed with code 55 in mind. If you tried to run such a train on code 55 the flanges would touch the sleepers and/or ties with pretty poor results. Generally anything made these days (and probably in the last few years) won't have any issue with code 55, and a lot of manufacturers still advertise their trains as having low profile flanges compatible with code 55 track just to reinforce this.

In my opinion it's not so much the normal track you need to worry about but things like crossings and turnouts, because if you're going to have issues with derailments it will generally be on one of these. Some info I posted in another thread-

I'll throw my $0.02 in here for N gauge.

The basic Atlas snap switches are poo, avoid them. They have the switching lever on the opposite side of the diverging rail with the mechanism inside a black plastic casing running parallel to the track. Throwing the switch gives only a very mild click, and the mechanism is obviously plastic because it is easily broken. My brother accidentally pulled a derailed carriage over one and the underside got caught on the blades, pulling them to the center while the switch was still closed. Ever since then trains would regularly hop the blade and derail when set to diverge. Additionally the rails are very poorly "locked" into position, so a trailing point movement without the switches set correctly would cause similar issues if your train is heavy enough to force the blades. They also pass current to both the through & diverging routes at the same time, something which DC users might want to avoid.

Peco Streamline insulfrog switches are great! The switching mechanism in locked directly to the blades so there's no play like you get in the Atlas snap switches. The mechanism is also spring loaded and gives a very satisfying click when it locks into place. I can go over them at a snail's pace without any stalls and I can't think of a single turnout-related derailment occurring since I made the switch (sorry) from Atlas.

Both of the above were code 80.
 
There are a few types of N-scale track, and there are several brands as well.

Types of Track

1. Roadbed Track
This type of track comes in short, rigid sections with ties and plastic roadbed permanently attached to each piece of track. The most popular brand of roadbed track is Kato Unitrack, which has been around for many years. Another brand is Bachmann E-Z Track. Newer to the roadbed track market is Atlas True Track. For all brands of roadbed track, available track pieces include straight sections in various lengths, curved pieces in different radiuses, and turnouts in a few different sizes. Roadbed track snaps together easily and tends to be reliable and trouble free. On the downside, roadbed track is not particularly realistic in appearance. Roadbed track can be considered a subset of ....

2. Sectional Track
Like roadbed track, sectional track is also sold in short, rigid pieces of various sizes. Sectional track has ties that are permanently attached to the track, but it does not have any roadbed attached. Turnouts of various sizes are also available. Typically, you lay down a roadbed of some sort, traditionally made of cork but nowadays often of other materials, then affix the pieces of sectional track to the roadbed. You connect together the pieces of sectional track with rail joiners that slip over the rails. Popular brands of sectional track are Atlas and Peco. Sectional track typically looks more realistic than roadbed track.

3. Flex Track
As the name implies, flex track is flexible instead of rigid. Ties are attached, but the track is constructed such that you can bend it into straights and curves of any shape. Flex track is sold in pieces that are either 30 or 36 inches long. It's up to you to cut the flex track to the length you need and form it into the shapes your track plan requires. The same turnouts used with sectional track are used with flex track. A big advantage of flex track is that you are not limited to the curve radiuses available with sectional track. And because pieces of flex track are longer than pieces of sectional track, a layout made with flex track will have fewer but longer pieces of track as opposed to more but shorter pieces of sectional track. This means fewer rail joints and thus fewer points of possible unreliability. Popular brands of N-scale flex track are Atlas, Peco, and Micro Engineering.

4. Hand Laid Track
For the ultimate in realism, you can lay your track much as full-size railroads do it. You install individual ties on your roadbed one by one, then attach lengths of rail to the ties. It is time consuming and precise work, but if done well, the results are quite reaistic. Relatively few modelers hand lay their track, but those who do it are much admired by the rest of us!


Track Code

In model railroading the height of the rails is known as the "code" and is measured in thousandths of an inch. Code 55 rail is 55-thousandths of an inch tall, or 0.055 inch. Code 80 rail is 80-thousandths of an inch tall, or 0.080 inch. The N-scale rail size that most accurately matches the real thing is Code 40 (0.040 inches tall). That works out to between 6 and 7 inches of scale height, about the height of real railroad rails. Code 40 rail is available, but the majority of N-scale modelers use Code 55 or Code 80, finding Code 40 to be too delicate for their liking. There is nothing to prevent you from using a mix of codes, such as Code 55 for the mainline and Code 40 for yards and spurs.


Track Material

Nearly all model railroads today are made with so-called "nickel silver" track. Nickel silver is an alloy of copper, nickel and often zinc. All of the major brands of track mentioned above are nickel silver. Brass is seldom used for track these days.


I hope this information is helpful.

- Jeff
 


I'll throw my $0.02 in here for N gauge.

The basic Atlas snap switches are poo, avoid them. They have the switching lever on the opposite side of the diverging rail with the mechanism inside a black plastic casing running parallel to the track.
Ok I get what your saying Pete about the code 80 snap switches with the big ugly black plastic casing. What about the atlas code 80 custom line switches? They have no bulky mechanism, just the pull bar on either side like a code 55 switch. I wonder if the code 80 custom line switches would outperform the ones you said to avoid. In fact I'll bet they'd work fine using RC micro servos with the tam valley depot controllers. What say you?.....or anyone?
 
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Ok I get what your saying Pete about the code 80 snap switches with the big ugly black plastic casing. What about the atlas code 80 custom line switches? They have no bulky mechanism, just the pull bar on either side like a code 55 switch. I wonder if the code 80 custom line switches would outperform the ones you said to avoid. In fact I'll bet they'd work fine using RC micro servos with the tam valley depot controllers. What say you?.....or anyone?
I've never seen those ones, don't think my LHS had them. I've completely converted to Peco switches now because I find them to be excellent, and as the saying goes- if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :)
 
But if we're talking about derailments, which was my complaint which led to Pete digging up that quote, it's not the switch mechanism you have to be concerned about, but rather the frogs. Right? And if that is the case would not an Atlas be an Atlas as Atlases are Atlas's 'es?
 
Good point Silverblade. I'll get 3 of the standard code 80 switches with the built-in black box (even though I don't want them) that come with the atlas scenic ridge track pack I'm using to start with. Then I'll also get one or two of the atlas custom line switches to experiment with. Then I'll have a better idea whether or not to build up the layout with them.
 
Actually my problem with the Atlas snap switches was in the mechanism, mainly the fact that it has poor feedback and doesn't hold the blades in place very well. To be honest I never really looked at the frogs to see if they're any different.
 
I need to spend more time experimenting. I noticed tonight that I was getting derailments that may well have been caused by the blades not being secure as you say. On the other hand the problem before that seemed to be that the insulated gap between the frogs wasn't deep enough, causing the front wheels of my 2-8-0 to rise up and ride over the rails. I dug out the space between the frogs with a dremel / cutting wheel and the derailments stopped in that spot.
 


I use Peco switches and Micro Engineering flex track.Every since I tried that cobination I won't use any other track.

I also have and used Kato Untitrack and find that is the best road bed track made.I love the simple wiring for the #6 switche(aka turnouts:rolleyes:) and their smooth operation.
 
Hi Brakie, how do you attach your peco and M.E. track sections and switches to each other? With typical atlas type rail joiners?
 
Yrs I use Atlas C55 rail joiners.If you are using C80 then Atlas or Peco rail joiners will work.The Peco SL310 rail joiners can be used on C55 or C80 track.

I have use the code 80 manual snap switches with no problems-the plastic control device does look ugly.

I have also used the manual #4 custom switch with Caboose ground throws with no problems.IMHO the oversize ground throws looked as bad as the control box on the Atlas snap switch.

My solution was the Peco switch since the points is held in place by a spring.
 




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