Trucks/sideframes, wheel face colors

[Toolbelt]

I realize the choices of colors depends on a lot of factors such as era, prototype location, weathering effects, loco/rolling stock type, etc, but what are a few of the go-to or starting point choices for non-passenger type loco/rolling stock? I've read a few who mentioned Tamiya Brown and Nato Brown as their choices. I tried using XF-72 Brown on a side frame but didn't like it as it made them stand out too much. I then tried mixing a bit of black in with a medium grey to get dark grey which looks better, but could maybe be improved on. I'm going for a 70's-2000's look with 5-15 yrs worth of weathering. I will likely apply powders later but need the right base colors first.

 

[moonlighting_racer]

Those are both probably WAY too brown for the side frames. If you're using Tamiya, I like dark iron as a base spray, then some rust powders, then another light spray pass with some earth tones depending on your region. Make sure you get the tank in a similar manner.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

This may be surprising, but I use inexpensive (about 58 cents a bottle) craft paint from Walmart. It's a brand called Apple Barrel. I use their "Nutmeg Brown" for wheel faces and couplers on most of my diesels and rolling stock, painted on full strength with a micro brush, and I use their "Territorial Beige", dry brushed, for the trucks, fuel tanks, the ends, and any where dirt could typically be found on a diesel. I sometimes use it for couplers instead of the brown color. You can see the results in the below photos. Hope this helps.

 

[Toolbelt]

Those are both probably WAY too brown for the side frames.

I realized that as I was typing my original question, that I had found the Tamiya Brown much too brown. I think I should have gone with my intuition and stopped as soon as I opened the jar. I think I prefer a light surface rust look on a sun-faded black casting, which you touched on, and then maybe some earthy pigments for effect. I think the YouTubes I watched were playing tricks on my eyes, as the brown colors they suggested looked good on the screen.

 

[Toolbelt]

This may be surprising, but I use inexpensive (about 58 cents a bottle) craft paint from Walmart. It's a brand called Apple Barrel. I use their "Nutmeg Brown" for wheel faces and couplers on most of my diesels and rolling stock, painted on full strength with a micro brush, and I use their "Territorial Beige", dry brushed, for the trucks, fuel tanks, the ends, and any where dirt could typically be found on a diesel. I sometimes use it for couplers instead of the brown color. You can see the results in the below photos. Hope this helps.
View attachment 264071View attachment 264072

Actually I was impressed by the cheap craft paints I bought at Michaels when experimenting with my airbrush and some acrylic thinners. Good even coverage and a durable finish as well. Your trucks look great, and it's way more in the direction I'm aiming for. I find this Tamiya paint dries way too quick straight of the jar without adding thinners/extenders and I dislike playing mad scientist when doing simple brush projects.

 

[Toolbelt]

Those are both probably WAY too brown for the side frames. If you're using Tamiya, I like dark iron as a base spray, then some rust powders, then another light spray pass with some earth tones depending on your region. Make sure you get the tank in a similar manner.

I picked up a Tamiya XF-84 Dark Iron and it looks like the perfect base colour. I also grabbed an AK 11111 Burnt Umber which is a dark reddish brown. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Toolbelt]

I've seen countless posts and YouTubes of people painting their wheel faces using simple acrylic paints. I tried that using AK 3rd Gen paint, but the bond was so weak that it literally peeled of just by lightly touching it. So I cleaned it off and applied Tamiya lacquer primer first before repainting and it still seems like a poor bond. I first prepped the wheel faces by cleaning with acetone, and let the primer dry 24 hrs. Perhaps I should go with an enamel?

 

[logandsawman]

I painted many of my trucks with rattle cans of automotive primer. There are many shades of brown out there.

I made a jig so I could paint a dozen or so at a time.

My observation is that the lighting and shadows have a lot to do with the appearance. These are usually seen from a few feet away.

Dave LASM

 

[Toolbelt]

I painted many of my trucks with rattle cans of automotive primer. There are many shades of brown out there.

I made a jig so I could paint a dozen or so at a time.

My observation is that the lighting and shadows have a lot to do with the appearance. These are usually seen from a few feet away.

Dave LASM

I'm trying to avoid the rattle can if at all possible, and I won't be painting wheels in batches. I'm looking for an effective way of doing a set of wheels as needed, likely over a relatively long time period. For the trucks, I ended up just using some craft acrylics and mixing up some black and brown to a tudor brown or bittersweet chocolate shade, then applied some powders for highlights. I'm just starting out with this airbrushing thingy and am very impressed with the performance, finish and durability of simple craft paints. They dry to a dead flat finish. I may hit them with a flat clear at some point although they seem to be durable without the needed for added protection.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

Actually I was impressed by the cheap craft paints I bought at Michaels when experimenting with my airbrush and some acrylic thinners. Good even coverage and a durable finish as well. Your trucks look great, and it's way more in the direction I'm aiming for. I find this Tamiya paint dries way too quick straight of the jar without adding thinners/extenders and I dislike playing mad scientist when doing simple brush projects.

Thank you! Something else I forgot to mention about the Apple Barrel craft paints I use is that they're water wash-up, so any mistake on the trucks can be cleaned off with a wet q-tip and attempted again. Here's some more examples.

 

[Toolbelt]

Thank you! Something else I forgot to mention about the Apple Barrel craft paints I use is that they're water wash-up, so any mistake on the trucks can be cleaned off with a wet q-tip and attempted again. Here's some more examples.View attachment 264492View attachment 264493View attachment 264494View attachment 264495

I realize they're water clean up, however, once dry, are they then water resistant at least? My plan was to finish them up by applying a matt clear either way. I love the way these cheap acrylics dry dead flat.

 

[CambriaArea51]

I have some samples of trucks and wheels. My 3 basic colors are Vallejo brand light rust, camouflage brown, black gray (grimy black), Applied in that order, different coats of weak/ strong in the colors give different results. Engine wheels are hand painted in light rust the trucks are airbrushed. Freight wheels and trucks are airbrushed.

 

[Toolbelt]

I have some samples of trucks and wheels. My 3 basic colors are Vallejo brand light rust, camouflage brown, black gray (grimy black), Applied in that order, different coats of weak/ strong in the colors give different results. Engine wheels are hand painted in light rust the trucks are airbrushed. Freight wheels and trucks are airbrushed.View attachment 264526View attachment 264527View attachment 264528View attachment 264529View attachment 264530View attachment 264532

do you airbrush the wheels and trucks separately or as a unit? any issues with paint adhesion on the wheels, especially the face of the rims? Looks great.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

I realize they're water clean up, however, once dry, are they then water resistant at least? My plan was to finish them up by applying a matt clear either way. I love the way these cheap acrylics dry dead flat.

I would say they have limited resistance. I've been able to brush and spray clear coats on without any issues, but it is possible to re-wet it and after letting it sit for a moment, scrub it off.

 

[CambriaArea51]

do you airbrush the wheels and trucks separately or as a unit? any issues with paint adhesion on the wheels, especially the face of the rims? Looks great.

I do them together. I have 2 pieces of 9" track and I roll them on that track to do the wheel faces. Before I paint I run 91% alcohol through the airbrush and blast the trucks to get any oil film off. Let them dry and paint. Engine trucks I run them on the track holding the engine and clean with a cotton swab and alcohol. Then paint by hand as the wheels are rotating

 

[Toolbelt]

My 3 basic colors are Vallejo brand light rust, camouflage brown, black gray (grimy black), Applied in that order,

I picked up the camo brown and grimy black (I already had the rust). When you say "in that order", if doing trucks, what is your basic process? Hit a few areas with rust, then spot spray the brown followed by the grime in certain areas?

 

[Toolbelt]

I use their "Nutmeg Brown" for wheel faces and couplers on most of my diesels and rolling stock, painted on full strength with a micro brush, and I use their "Territorial Beige", dry brushed, for the trucks, fuel tanks, the ends, and any where dirt could typically be found on a diesel.

I stopped by WallyMart and picked up some Territorial Beige but they don't carry the Nutmeg. I also grabbed some Coffee Latte and Country Twill. I'm not even sure what Nutmeg looks like. I picked up the other two as they are shades of beige which I might use at some point. Small bottles are only $1.50 or so, so no real risk in having extras. I assume you apply the Territorial Beige as road grime where needed?

 

[CambriaArea51]

I picked up the camo brown and grimy black (I already had the rust). When you say "in that order", if doing trucks, what is your basic process? Hit a few areas with rust, then spot spray the brown followed by the grime in certain areas?

I will rust the whole truck (except engines I do differently) then light spot spray with the brown so it looks like a dirty rust color. The grimy black at the end very light just to tone down and mix in with the rust and brown. How you spray each color will give you different variations. I do the grimy black at the end so the rust and brown have that greasy dirty look to them.

 

[Toolbelt]

I will rust the whole truck (except engines I do differently) then light spot spray with the brown so it looks like a dirty rust color. The grimy black at the end very light just to tone down and mix in with the rust and brown. How you spray each color will give you different variations. I do the grimy black at the end so the rust and brown have that greasy dirty look to them.View attachment 264879View attachment 264880View attachment 264881View attachment 264882View attachment 264884

I hear you. I think I'm on the same wavelength. I like those colors and will mix up the variations so that each car will not have a cookie-cutter look. Your results are exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

I stopped by WallyMart and picked up some Territorial Beige but they don't carry the Nutmeg. I also grabbed some Coffee Latte and Country Twill. I'm not even sure what Nutmeg looks like. I picked up the other two as they are shades of beige which I might use at some point. Small bottles are only $1.50 or so, so no real risk in having extras. I assume you apply the Territorial Beige as road grime where needed?

I'm surprised they didn't have the nutmeg, but this is what it looks like.

You're correct about the Territorial Beige, I put it anywhere road grime would likely be found. I usually put it on the front and back ends, getting thicker close to ground level, truck side frames, fuel tanks, and assorted under body appliances that would likely pick up dirt. Here's some more example photos.