Troy's Still Untitled GN Cascade N-Scale line


I know it right? That's what makes the scene ,how they angle across the tracks, the big rock cut on one side, cut bank on the other, and an A-B-B consist of Western Pacific FT's in their Green/Orange scheme coming through the tunnel with a 40 car consist of tank cars. ;)
 
Got some more sculptamold installed. I'm getting better at mixing it.

Need to get my tunnel portals for the Mount Raven tunnel with the removable top. Once I get the track down, and the portals, I can put the sides on. Up til now, I thought I'd keep it as a wrap-around cap, but I think I'm going for a top only cap, with fixed sides...

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Update time:

Been working on getting the track laid, and I'm almost out of cork roadbed to lay the track on. That is, I need to install more cork (got plenty in the box, still).

So, that means I need to apply more plaster cloth to foam risers. Then lay the cork. Then lay the track.

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One problem I'm having is that the caulk works great for the cork. But I'm not getting enough down for the track. Adding track to an already install (with caulk) end is invariably loosening a good 2 to 3 feet of track. I'm having to go back and use 50/50 white glue/water to re-adhere the track that comes loose.

I'm pinning the heck out of track ends until I extend them, in hopes of not having to repeat any more work.

If you're not following the current (as I write this) Coffee Shop thread, then I've added a Weller Soldering station to the tool line up. Makes a substantial difference. Increase your standby time, so the iron stays hot long enough for work to get done. And the variable temp allows me to dial in a setting just above the melting point of the solder I'm using. Helps cut down on melted ties on the track.

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And, I've switched to this jeweler/elect solder from amazon. On the right, the stuff I got from the hardware plumbing section. For soldering rails, I really recommend the thin solder. It doesn't overflow as much, and I'm spending less time filing away the excess.

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Here's an overall of the Misty Valley end, with the middle Berne peninsula. I'll be adding plaster cloth to the risers on the peninsula this weekend. And might even get some cork down! Then it'll be time to wire in the feeders and hook them up to the main bus. Not sure how much I'll get done on the wiring this weekend. We'll see.
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Only 2/3rds of a year since the last post. 🤪

Had to tear out the old Right end of the U. The layout is now going to be a folded dogbone - WITH room for expansion if I run a narrow shelf off the far end of the RIGHT end of the dogbone. Plan is to bend it around the room corner, but still give plenty of access to the main Elect Panel for the condo. Once beyond that obstacle, it can widen out to a yard.
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But first, work will progress on the main layout section. ABOVE: new end of the dogbone... but the foam and risers have to go... starting fresh.

I'm 99% done on tear-out. Most of the way on rebuilding Benchwork.

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Above: work in progress: Moved the old Middle bump-out to the far end (near the elect box)... next, build the transition to fill in the corner between new and old...

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Making the angles

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Angle has been angled and dog-bone bent

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I need to spend tomorrow reconfiguring the old Leg sections and moving them to where they will make more sense. The backboard of the benchwork is screwed to the furring strips in the back wall. That will need to be loosened, the table leveled, then re-attached to the back wall.
 
Hi Troy, I just found your thread with layout pictures. I see we have a lot in common, however will not elaborate. Could you post some pictures of your trains? What kind of locomotives and freight cars do you like?
Great Northern, though this is going Freelance based on my book's settings.

So far, I have yet to run a train. I got real derailed when I hed to tear out 1/3rd of the layout for access to the condo's power breaker box.
 



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