Troy's Midnight Abbey Mythical RR 3rd Edition

[troyphoto]

Time for an update. It's 3D printing time.

As stated above, I've been busy watching the Bambu P1P 3D printer.

I thought I was doing good to get a .2 nozzle. But... I didn't do enough homework on them, and just let the Bambu Studio software use the defaults.

I ended up with a clog.

Bah. I couldn't clear it, so the old .4 nozzle went back on.

Here are a couple of photos with sections printed on either the .2 nozzle or the .4 nozzle optimized for detail:

Which is which?
I'll post the answer at the very bottom of this post.

I decided that an optimized .4 nozzle is good enough. The prints are slower to finish, but it looks good to my naked eye, and even with some magnification.

Here are the settings suggest by claude AI for the Bambu, using the .4 nozzle with a .1 layer height

Claude responded: Bambu Studio Settings for Maximum Detail — Architectural/Scenic Models​

Bambu Studio Settings for Maximum Detail — Architectural/Scenic Models
0.4mm nozzle, Elegoo PLA

Quality Tab:

• Layer height: 0.10mm
• Initial layer height: 0.1mm
• Line widths: leave at defaults

Strength Tab:

• Wall loops: 4
• Infill density: 20–25%
• Infill pattern: Grid

Quality Tab — Wall Generator:

• Order of walls: Outer/Inner

Quality Tab — Seam:

• Seam position: Aligned
• Smart scarf seam: Enabled

Speed:

• Outer perimeter: 25–30mm/s
• Inner perimeter: 40–50mm/s
• Infill: default

Everything else at Bambu defaults.

These settings prioritize surface detail over speed. Expect longer print times — that's the tradeoff.

Here's a set of 15mm ACW gaming figures. I've got a bit of headroom to increase the size of the figures in comparison to the house. But I don't have any "HO Scale" figures in hand. So I used my 15mm

And here is the fully assembled mansion (level one only) to get it's footprint within the curve at the west end of the peninsula:

Here's a rough idea of what I'm planning for this end. A spur line to enter a cavern under the mansion, but we'll have a viewing "access window" along the outer edge of the peninsula to see the cavern unloading facility for the mansion above.

THIS IS A ROUGH APPROXIMATION. I wanted to get in idea of high high to make the cavern.

That's a four inch gap between zero level and the bottom of the foam above. Track is on a woodland scenics foam roadbed, on top of a 1/2 foam riser. Caverns will need detail on the floor, so a rise makes sense.

The outer 20 inch loop will be open air, visible to all, and used for continuous running.

Oh, and the 3D printer images. The .2 nozzle is on the left, while the .4 optimized settings nozzle output is on the right.

 

[DeaconKC]

The .4 is turning out very good looking stuff. I still use a .4 to even make miniatures. At the detail setting, I am pleased with results, especially for terrain.

 

[Kusojiji]

Yeah, clearing clogs out of nozzles is a pain. I crank the hotend up to as high as it can go, use pliers to grab it and remove it from the machine, then use a wire to try to push it out. Takes a few times, but I do finally clear it. By then, the swear jar is overflowing.

 

[troyphoto]

I now have tortoise machines coming in.

Somewhere on Trains.com, I knew that Gerry Leone had a video on installing some push button things he liked for his [begin announcer voice] "Tortoise machines, by CIRCUITTRON!" [/announcer voice]

I finally found the video:

And, the buttons are called Touch Toggles by Berret Hill.

Here's the page with the controller and toggles as one package.

Direct Base for Tortoise machines | Berrett Hill Shop

You'll need a 12V power supply, also available at BH.

This one looks easy enough that I (might) avoid letting any blue smoke out!

 

[traiNscale]

should have checkd in here first, before asking in the coffee thread

iam also still on my 0.4 nozzle but i have a 0.25 nozzle on my side, for starting to get into miniature printing.
atm my 1:35 scale figures are printed with the 0.4 nozzle and i have to say they look really good.

but if i go smaller in scale i think i will have to use my 0.25 nozzle. does anyone here has experience with trying to print H0 figures with FDM?
Or is this maybe too much?

 

[troyphoto]

should have checkd in here first, before asking in the coffee thread

iam also still on my 0.4 nozzle but i have a 0.25 nozzle on my side, for starting to get into miniature printing.
atm my 1:35 scale figures are printed with the 0.4 nozzle and i have to say they look really good.

but if i go smaller in scale i think i will have to use my 0.25 nozzle. does anyone here has experience with trying to print H0 figures with FDM?
Or is this maybe too much?

I would really recommend resin for HO scale and smaller figures.

Some FDM printer owners are getting good results from FDM on figures at 1:56 scale or larger.

 

[traiNscale]

but resin is always a pain...
and a mess...

dont get me wrong, i love my resin printer, but the work around everything is a pain...

 

[DeaconKC]

I think you nailed the advantages and disadvantages of both types of printers. I don't have a resin printer because any kind of strong odors really make my wife ill. I can get good TT miniature prints with my FDM and scenery can be done very well, although stepping to N scale it depends on the designer, many older prints are not good. PS: thank you @Sumner ! his designs are great.