Track expansion due to temperature?
- Thread starter Fazby
- Start date
NYC_George
Well-Known Member
Expansion joints
Hi Fazby
I usually solder three flex track sections together and a switch if need be. Then I put a regular rail joiner in for the expansion joint. That's about 10 feet. I have baseboard heat so the temp doesn't change that much. I power the sections with 18 gauge solid copper wire and just use wire nuts to make all the conections. If I need to add another lead or something I just cut the wire and add another wire nut or two. I think I bought a box of 200 wire nuts in Home Depot for $13.99. I once read you should add a expansion joint, I think every 6', but I do 10.
NYC_George
Hi Fazby
I usually solder three flex track sections together and a switch if need be. Then I put a regular rail joiner in for the expansion joint. That's about 10 feet. I have baseboard heat so the temp doesn't change that much. I power the sections with 18 gauge solid copper wire and just use wire nuts to make all the conections. If I need to add another lead or something I just cut the wire and add another wire nut or two. I think I bought a box of 200 wire nuts in Home Depot for $13.99. I once read you should add a expansion joint, I think every 6', but I do 10.
NYC_George
4Starcstms
Member
I wouldnt think so. Soldered pipes dont crack @ extreme temp. changes.
Just my opinion, but I don't see any track difference because of temperature on my layout, however there's e lot of expansion to be concerned about with humidity changes. When it's dry all is fine (like now, Winter) however when there is enough of a humidity change, the wood swells (if I don't have the dehumidifier on) and then there could be problems (Gate won't close etc) but the track seems ok except for the gate alignment. Might be other things I haven't noticed.
heers Willis
heers Willis
There was an electrical engineer that published a very detailed study of his layout which was pretty good sized, as I remember, and was in a garage, so there was no climate control. He had some pretty sophisticated strain gages and laser measuring tools and tested his track in both the heat of summer and the cold of winter. His final analysis was he never found a spot on the tracks that moved more than 1 mm regardless of climate change. It makes sense when you you think about the very small mass that model track presents to movement due to temperature change. I tend to agree with Willis that humidity is probably a bigger factor, especially for plywood and cork roadbeds. It's the humidity that will cause the sub-base to change and that could affect your track but even then, I don't think it will have any effect on running trains on otherwise well laid track.
I 100% agree with Willis and Jim. I have a garage layout that only gets heated or cooled when I'm using it and haven't experienced any problems, winter or summer. There is no doubt in my mind that most problems of others are the results of the wood or lack of good support. Here in Alabama, the humidity gets thick enough to choke a frog, so this is one good reason to use good lumber, lots of support joists, and lots of fasteners (screws).
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One millimeter? My tolerances are not that tight, so I should be alright. Heck, I have two or three gaps between pieces of sectional that are that size, and have had no problems.
While I can't control the temp in the basement, I do have a dehumidifier.
I think can stop worrying now. You have also ruined my procrastination.
Thanks!!!
While I can't control the temp in the basement, I do have a dehumidifier.
I think can stop worrying now. You have also ruined my procrastination.
Thanks!!!
Fazby,
Indeed, one millimeter is trivial as far as track moving. Having a stable sub-base is by far more important. I built one layout and had constant problems at one switch. I changed out the switch, filed the points, checked the gauge of the frog and guard rails and I still had nothing but grief. I was checking the level of another part of the layout one day and decided to check the area with the switch just for the heck of it. Turned out out that the plywood was not only slightly out of level but wracked in the direction toward the diverging route. The switch was out of level in two directions. I added about 3 mm's of shims on the main lain and 5 mm's of shims on the diverging route and never had a problem again. Making sure everything is level in all planes is probably one of the most important things you can do while laying track. There will be some unlevel spots and it's easy to shim them with no scenery in the way. It will be a lot tougher to both find and fix with scenery in the way.
Indeed, one millimeter is trivial as far as track moving. Having a stable sub-base is by far more important. I built one layout and had constant problems at one switch. I changed out the switch, filed the points, checked the gauge of the frog and guard rails and I still had nothing but grief. I was checking the level of another part of the layout one day and decided to check the area with the switch just for the heck of it. Turned out out that the plywood was not only slightly out of level but wracked in the direction toward the diverging route. The switch was out of level in two directions. I added about 3 mm's of shims on the main lain and 5 mm's of shims on the diverging route and never had a problem again. Making sure everything is level in all planes is probably one of the most important things you can do while laying track. There will be some unlevel spots and it's easy to shim them with no scenery in the way. It will be a lot tougher to both find and fix with scenery in the way.
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NYC_George
Well-Known Member
Track expansion
I'm not sure why anyone would want to solder all their track together. If it's because you only want to solder a few leads in and let the track itself carry the current that's not good. Copper wire is a way better conductor of electricity than nickel silver. If you solder a lead in every 10 feet then you only have the track carrying the current from one lead to another. Most of the current will be carried by the copper bus. The result being you can run more engines because of less resistance. As far as expansion joints go. I work on high rises. Everything gets an expansion joint. Pipes are hung with a pipe straps attached to stand offs. The stand off and pipe can move freely, back and forth. They take no chances. I decided not to take any chances either but that's me. I think you should at least run the copper wire bus under the track if that the question.
NYC_George
I'm not sure why anyone would want to solder all their track together. If it's because you only want to solder a few leads in and let the track itself carry the current that's not good. Copper wire is a way better conductor of electricity than nickel silver. If you solder a lead in every 10 feet then you only have the track carrying the current from one lead to another. Most of the current will be carried by the copper bus. The result being you can run more engines because of less resistance. As far as expansion joints go. I work on high rises. Everything gets an expansion joint. Pipes are hung with a pipe straps attached to stand offs. The stand off and pipe can move freely, back and forth. They take no chances. I decided not to take any chances either but that's me. I think you should at least run the copper wire bus under the track if that the question.
NYC_George
