Track cleaning thoughts and observation ( Traction tire warning)


Ericsauto

Well-Known Member
I have read so many articles on track cleaning that my brain hurts. Believe me, I have tried them all and they all have merit to them. The problem that is overlooked in some of the articles is that a lot of us have grades and traction tires. I have watched Fishplates videos on Youtube (
) and tried his methods. They work well except for when you use traction tires. I finally found what works for me the best so far. That is 99% alcohol, not 70%. It cleans the track well with no water residue left behind.

Is it perfect, no, but for me as perfect as I have had. So the moral of this story, make sure your cleaner will work with Traction Tires before you put it on your track. It took me a while to get the cleaning fluid off that made my engines "Slip" going up the grades. ( I have 2.75 grades) Some cleaners will actually deteriorate your traction tires so read the label.

Hopefully, my thoughts and observations will save someone from the aggravation I went through.

Eric
 
People who use any type of alcohol also report having to do the procedure repeatedly, often every few days. I have abandoned alcohol. I now use kerosene or mineral spirits per the research done over at MRH five years ago. My tracks work great, and almost all of my steamers have traction tires. Traction tires will deteriorate over a few years anyway, and must eventually be replaced. So, might as well get used to doing that as part of routine maintenance.
 
I am still a fan of isopropyl alcohol, although have not tried any other cleaner since back in the day of erasers then tried some type of liquid which put a residue on the track hated that one, although it greatly improved pickup.

I use a clean cloth and a small piece of wood a bit wider than my track, pour a bit of alcohol on the cloth and run it over the track using the wood piece as a holder for the cloth. Occasionally will clean the wheels using a similar process, however hold the wheels on the track with the cloth under the wheels, let a couple wheels pick up power and spin the wheels on the cloth to get them really clean.

Have noticed now I have exceptional conductivity with even old locomotives, they will start without pushing using slow throttle even. My layout is small only 11' x 12' however do not find the alcohol to be a burden, also inexpensive and clean!

I have not traction tires however so cannot comment on that part of the equation. Also my layout is DC so not sure if DCC has different req's.
 
People who use any type of alcohol also report having to do the procedure repeatedly, often every few days. I have abandoned alcohol. I now use kerosene or mineral spirits per the research done over at MRH five years ago. My tracks work great, and almost all of my steamers have traction tires. Traction tires will deteriorate over a few years anyway, and must eventually be replaced. So, might as well get used to doing that as part of routine maintenance.
How long does the mineral spirits take to dry when you use it? I like to try this.
 
It takes a long time, and that is one of its benefits. If the metals are to oxidize, and there's no clear proof that the alloy really does oxidize, the coating should slow the exposure to air. https://www.columbiametals.com/products/nickel-silver

Note that, in the previous link and in the one that follows (scroll down to find the section on Nickel Silver), you'll see that it's essentially zinced brass, and that it is both highly conductive and highly resistant to corrosion and oxidation. https://www.metallurgyfordummies.com/nickel-and-nickel-alloys.html

The upshot is that, even if it does corrode a bit, the product is not going to contribute hugely to the loss of power pickup to the decoder. If you prevent oxidation in the first place, by coating the railhead with a product suitable for that purpose, you'll slow whatever oxidation is likely to take place over the next few weeks.

I have been cleaning my track system for nearly three years now with kerosene using a CMX track cleaner. So far, my trains run well, and I haven't found any broken traction tires lying on the right of way.

Here's another site describing the utility of nickel-silver alloys (there are at least six kinds): https://www.nealloys.com/nickel_silver.php
 
I have abandoned alcohol. I now use kerosene or mineral spirits per the research done over at MRH five years ago.

I will second this. I also mineral spirits to clean my track. Very happy with the results and very minimal cleaning needing to be done for maintenance.

How long does the mineral spirits take to dry when you use it? I like to try this.
MY process is this: I get a pack of those 1" wide felt furniture pads at the hardware store, soak one with the mineral spirits (a quick dab with the pad the top of the bottle is all it needs), then wipe down the track. I then follow up with a second, dry pad to clean off any excess mineral oils.

Works a charm no issues with my one loco running traction tires (4-6-4 Hudson). I did a full track cleaning a couple years ago and now only ever have to spot clean the rarely used sections.
I am embarrassed by the number of plastic wheel sets rolling under my rolling stock.
 



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