Tower 55 ES44AC?


As I have said before. Place a T55 next to an Intermountain GEVO and you will see that they are exactly alike, right down to the details. I will let you decide.
 
I've heard from others when they talked with Athearn are they still going to do the GEVOs,that they said yes an they are working on the tooling an expect to hear something in 2011 early 2012 from what i've heard.
 
As I have said before. Place a T55 next to an Intermountain GEVO and you will see that they are exactly alike, right down to the details. I will let you decide.

I don't own either model (yet) so I can't compare, but I vaguely remember people complaining about the T55 model being off dimensionally. If I can find those posts again and have someone with calipers measure both models, then it will settle this argument once and for all! :D

Anyone try contacting Intermountain on this?
 
There may never be an Athearn version of the GEVO. The Intermountain model is a solid model, and I don't think there's much if anything to improve upon. I wonder how much Athearn paid for the tooling that they'll never use :D

I cant see Athearn sitting on that tooling even though there is an Intermountain. Athearn should have worked on the Gevo first then the Aces.

Remember MTH came out with a nice ACE a while before Athearn did. So this wont be anything they havent delt with before.
 
Yes, but the thing is, the ACe was MTH's first HO model. Athearn probably thought that they could do better. The Intermountain model doesn't seem like it has any dimensional errors or quality control problems. If Athearn was to make a GEVO, they would have to do other paint schemes or something. It is possible that Athearn can out-compete Intermountain for the fact that Intermountain doesn't seem to be able to get the GEVOs out quickly. (the ES44DCs have been pushed back yet again while Athearn can announce something and get it out in 4 months.)
 
Yes, but the thing is, the ACe was MTH's first HO model. Athearn probably thought that they could do better. The Intermountain model doesn't seem like it has any dimensional errors or quality control problems. If Athearn was to make a GEVO, they would have to do other paint schemes or something. It is possible that Athearn can out-compete Intermountain for the fact that Intermountain doesn't seem to be able to get the GEVOs out quickly. (the ES44DCs have been pushed back yet again while Athearn can announce something and get it out in 4 months.)

Athearn hasn't really impressed me with their 'speed.' They announced the new GP-7/9 a couple months back, and we're not supposed to see them till Novermber, or somewhere around then.
 
I guess it depends on what it is. With some of their items like the ones announced last week, they're due Sept/Oct/Nov. New models probably take more time so that they can iron out any bugs, mistakes, etc while other items that are new paint schemes on existing products would simply need to be ordered.
 
I know the last post in this thread was 3 years ago, but I was wondering if anybody came up with a solution to this "Tower Top Gear" cracking problem? Two of my T55 ES44s just developed this problem within the last week. I really like these locomotives and I don't want to have to trash them. Thanks to anybody still out there...
 
Yes, I had the same problem on my two T55 ES44DC locos. NWSL now makes the gear. I ordered four gears and installed them about a month ago. All is well now. I don't recall the part number but you can find it on their PDF parts list. It's listed under Tower 55 about 2/3s the way down the page. It's the only thing listed for Tower 55. I think they were about $11 each. It took about a month from order time to delivery.
 
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Yes, I had the same problem on my two T55 ES44DC locos. NWSL now makes the gear. I oredered four gears and installed them about a month ago. All is well now. I don't recall the part number but you can find it on their PDF pRts list. It's listed under Tower 55 about 2/3s the way down the page. It's the only thing listed for Tower 55. I think they were about $11 each. It took about a month from order time to delivery.

Thank you, thank you, thank you! I just ordered 4 gears for my 2 crippled diesels.

Since you've recently done this replacement, could you most kindly tell me how you disassembled the loco to get access to that gear? The exploded diagram in the manual isn't very helpful.

Many thanks again!

Robert
 
I don't have the loco in front of me so I'm going from what I remember.
Remove the shell by removing the couplers then pull the shell off. I think that's all there is to it.
Look at the top of the truck towers. You will see how the drive axel from the motor goes under a top clip. Use a small screw driver to wedge into the side of the top clip to pry it loose from the truck. Kinda obvious when ya see it. The gear will then be visible. Lift up and remove the entire axel assembly. The motor end of the axel only slips into the flywheel, so just pull it towards the truck to remove it.
Pull the brass bearing off the end of the axel shaft then note where the butterfly gear is on the shaft so that the new one will engage the gear in the truck when you reassemble it. Place the new gear onto the shaft then use a pair of pliers or needle nose pliers to push it down the shaft. Do not use lubricant on the shaft where the butterfly gear goes. Don't squeeze the gear with the pliers, just use the pliers to push the gear down the shaft. It will be a tight fit. Install the drive axel back into the flywheel end first then lay the butterfly gear end of the shaft into the truck tower. Check the position of the butterfly gear with the gear in the truck tower so they engage properly. Adjust the position of the butterfly gear on the shaft as needed using the pliers to push the gear either way. Reinstall the brass bearing with the lip end of the bearing toward the butterfly gear. Apply a small amount of gear lube then reinstall the plastic clip over the axel.
 
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I don't have the loco in front of me so I'm going from what I remember.
Remove the shell by removing the couplers then pull the shell off. I think that's all there is to it.
Look at the top of the truck towers. You will see how the drive axel from the motor goes under a top clip. Use a small screw driver to wedge into the side of the top clip to pry it loose from the truck. Kinda obvious when ya see it. The gear will then be visible. Lift up and remove the entire axel assembly. The motor end of the axel only slips into the flywheel, so just pull it towards the truck to remove it.
Pull the brass bearing off the end of the axel shaft then note where the butterfly gear is on the shaft so that the new one will engage the gear in the truck when you reassemble it. Place the new gear onto the shaft then use a pair of pliers or needle nose pliers to push it down the shaft. Do not use lubricant on the shaft where the butterfly gear goes. Don't squeeze the gear with the pliers, just use the pliers to push the gear down the shaft. It will be a tight fit. Install the drive axel back into the flywheel end first then lay the butterfly gear end of the shaft into the truck tower. Check the position of the butterfly gear with the gear in the truck tower so they engage properly. Adjust the position of the butterfly gear on the shaft as needed using the pliers to push the gear either way. Reinstall the brass bearing with the lip end of the bearing toward the butterfly gear. Apply a small amount of gear lube then reinstall the plastic clip over the axel.

Once again, MANY thanks!

P.S. Your layout is awe-inspiring!
 
G'day Jared....It sounds to me that the universal from the motor to the drive wheels is slipping out or is worn...I had exactly the same problem (also with a second hand loco , a Dash 9, ...Once I pulled off the shell and replaced the universal joint..she worked fine..and still does...hope it's that simple to fix for you...Cheers Rod..
 
G'day Jared....It sounds to me that the universal from the motor to the drive wheels is slipping out or is worn...I had exactly the same problem (also with a second hand loco , a Dash 9, ...Once I pulled off the shell and replaced the universal joint..she worked fine..and still does...hope it's that simple to fix for you...Cheers Rod..

That's what we were discussing here, but the problem isn't the universal joint. It's the butterfly gear that drives the gears in the truck tower. The Tower 55 design is unique in its own and to change anything out in the drive train would require that the entire motor to trucks be replaced.
 
I don't have the loco in front of me so I'm going from what I remember.
Remove the shell by removing the couplers then pull the shell off. I think that's all there is to it.
Look at the top of the truck towers. You will see how the drive axel from the motor goes under a top clip. Use a small screw driver to wedge into the side of the top clip to pry it loose from the truck. Kinda obvious when ya see it. The gear will then be visible. Lift up and remove the entire axel assembly. The motor end of the axel only slips into the flywheel, so just pull it towards the truck to remove it.
Pull the brass bearing off the end of the axel shaft then note where the butterfly gear is on the shaft so that the new one will engage the gear in the truck when you reassemble it. Place the new gear onto the shaft then use a pair of pliers or needle nose pliers to push it down the shaft. Do not use lubricant on the shaft where the butterfly gear goes. Don't squeeze the gear with the pliers, just use the pliers to push the gear down the shaft. It will be a tight fit. Install the drive axel back into the flywheel end first then lay the butterfly gear end of the shaft into the truck tower. Check the position of the butterfly gear with the gear in the truck tower so they engage properly. Adjust the position of the butterfly gear on the shaft as needed using the pliers to push the gear either way. Reinstall the brass bearing with the lip end of the bearing toward the butterfly gear. Apply a small amount of gear lube then reinstall the plastic clip over the axel.

Ken: I ordered the gears and got them in less than 2 weeks. Your instructions were perfect. All 3 of the cracked gears have been replaced & both locos are running great again. Thank you very much for your patience and your willingness to share your expertise. Robert
 
If it helps, there is a video on You Tube showing how to fix a T55 drive. I not one to go into details, but if this helps I am happier to put this to you all
 



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