The Union Pacific Soggy Bottoms Subdivision (HO scale)


It was probably my own fault, somehow. They lined up correctly, but once the liftgate was raised the aligner on the moving part wouldn't nestle into the stationary aligner. It was probably something I did.
But that water has long since gone under the bridge.
A friend used them and had a similar problem, he fixed it by glueing both aligners in place first, and letting it dry overnight before moving the lift out.
 
Haven't done much with the layout recently. :oops: :oops:
I have re-discovered my passion for building model tanks. I used to build them waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back when I was a kid. Now I can get into them in a bit more depth.
I just finished a Tamiya 1/35 scale Russian WWII T-34/76. The 76 refers to the bore of the main gun. Later in the war they came out with the T-34/85, which had an 85mm cannon.
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The backdrop is a photo of a set from the movie "Stalingrad". It depicts the Barmaley Fountain.
The kit contained parts for the early version of the T-34/76, as well as the later version of the T-34/76. The differences are mainly the turret top, fuel tanks, and road wheels.
Since I had some parts that were not used, I thought "These would make a good flatcar load!" I have no idea what industrial items they are supposed to represent, but they do make a nice flatcar load!
flatcar load.jpeg


The car itself is a Roundhouse kit from MDC, #1286. It's a UP 60 foot flatcar. I think this will be my next modeling project.
 
The flatcar and load, plus Kadee #148 couplers and metal wheels, came to just under 3 ounces in weight. Should be closer to 5 ounces. I had some metal Pinewood Derby car weights from when my now 24 yr old son was in Cub Scouts. (Seems like it was just last week!) The shape of them is just about perfect to fit into the long piece, and I drilled a 1/8" hole in bottom of the tank shaped pieces. Those I filled with lead shotgun shot, and sealed the hole with CA glue. The total weight is now just over 4 ounces, and that's as good as it's going to get!
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As you can see from the photo in the previous post, the flatcar deck has a number of ejector pin marks. I bought some Mr. Hobby Mr. White Putty and filled them in. It's the first time I've used that putty. Not sure what I think of it yet. I think it may need thinned a bit before use. It seemed a bit hard to work with. I also filled in the hole I made in the tank pieces.
After the putty dried I sanded it down. The sanding obscured some of the deck seams, so I used a sharp #11 Exacto blade and re-scored all the deck seams. I then applied a coat of Testors Model Master white primer. I have a couple of bottles of white and a couple bottles of gray that I want to use up before they go bad.
It's not the most award worthy job of priming I've ever done, but it'll do for what I need.
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The flatcar deck will be painted with Badger ModelFlex Armour Yellow, and the load will be painted with Vallejo ModelAir steel.
Sorry about the poor focus in the 2nd pic. I had one of the buttons on my camera set wrong. :oops:
 
I got most of the painting done on the flatcar project. The deck of the flatcar is painted with Badger ModelFlex Armour Yellow, and then I used Tamiya Panel Liner (black) to highlight the deck seams. Any excess was rolled across the deck with a cotton swab. The under-frame, sides, and deck were then given a light mist of Testors Model Master Grimy Black. I still have a number of bottles of MM paint, and want to use them up before they go bad.
The trucks were also given a coat of Grimy Black. I'll highlight the springs with a bit of rust color.
The load pieces were painted with Vallejo Model Air Steel ( 71.065). Once I get the load glued to the deck, I'll go over everything with some flat clear coat. Then I'll install the strapping. I have some elastic thread I plan to use as strapping. Some .040" square styrene will be used as 4x4 blocking.
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Here the center piece is being glued to the deck. The under side is not painted, so I sanded some paint off the deck and used the famous (infamous?) Testors tube cement to glue the plastic parts together. I put some CA gel under the weights as added glue. The wheels will be CA glued to the deck, as there really isn't any good way to get a good plastic to plastic bond with those. The tank pieces will get some paint scraped off the bottom, and some paint scraped off the deck, tube cemented in place. Once the blocking and strapping is installed, none of this load is going to come off accidentally.
 
The road wheels, fuel bins and drive housing ( I think this is for the motorized T-34 but don’t quote me ) look great in the Vallejo Steel.. nice👍🏻

Thanks…Using these surplus parts was an expedient that combined my interest in armour kits with HO trains…
Besides if you have built a few tank kits, there are lot of extra parts that accumulate …
There are a few different scales in there…1/16, 1/24, 1/32, 1/35, 1/48, 1/72 tanks mostly…a few aircraft parts…
13 gondolas filled so far…I have a few more to go…
And the 2 scrap piles on my layout are kit parts…
 
The road wheels, fuel bins and drive housing ( I think this is for the motorized T-34 but don’t quote me ) look great in the Vallejo Steel.. nice👍🏻

Thanks…Using these surplus parts was an expedient that combined my interest in armour kits with HO trains…
Besides if you have built a few tank kits, there are lot of extra parts that accumulate …
There are a few different scales in there…1/16, 1/24, 1/32, 1/35, 1/48, 1/72 tanks mostly…a few aircraft parts…
13 gondolas filled so far…I have a few more to go…
And the 2 scrap piles on my layout are kit parts…
Yes, that is the drive housing. These came from the Tamiya 1/35 kit that was designed to be motorized back in the 70's.
I really like your gondola loads!
 
Finished up the flatcar. The strapping is .5mm elastic thread. I used some grimy black and flat earth to tone down the shine of the deck. The 4x4 blocking is styrene strip. I tried to simulate that nice gray color that CCA treated wood gets when it's exposed to the element s for a long time. I don't know why, but I decided to add tool and storage boxes to each end. Insanity, I suppose. Maybe the 1:1 scale UP wouldn't do that, but my 1:87 scale version did!
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Now to start that 1/35 scale M48A2 Patton tank.
 



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