The new layout 2023
- Thread starter rgeiter
- Start date
ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
L8r
Sandwich - something between something else. In this case, glue between the ply and blue board. Do it on a flat surface with blue board on top. With that on top, you might not have to weigh it down unless the ply is wavy/warped. Note that you still can do 'cookie cutter' style for elevations, you just need to be careful not to cut too deep into the top of the joist. I played with just that when I was testing the 1" blue board on top of ply. Found that I could cut through both pretty easy with a skil saw adjusted at the thickness of the sandwich. I suspect that a small nick on the top of the joist is not going to matter. If you are worried, then cut down to just above the top of the joist and razor saw the remaining.
L8r
[Edit] I also found that with 16" centers, me standing on the sandwich 1 foot on the blue board between joists, they would bend a little but didn't break. I'm 205Lbs - suspect I could jump on them to get it to break, but didn't want to find out and just decided on 12" centers.
As for the tortoise switch machines, I’m going to see what else is available that has a smaller profile and still has the contacts for signaling.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)
rgeiter
Conrail Quality
I have an idea I want to bounce off of you guys. I’m thinking of painting this wall (short wall with the I-beams and door opening) Conrail boxcar red, a variant of red oxide. Then I will scale the Conrail logo and boxcar data on it. The 24 inch door will be a sliding door made to look like steel. What do you think. Too much foamery or not?
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Certainly an interesting idea, if you can get the scaling right I think it will make an interesting centerpiece to your layout room.
rgeiter
Conrail Quality
Here we are, 2025. All the walls and floor are done!! Exciting! Painting the steps now! I still have some trim work to do but that’ll take only a few minutes to complete. I’m not going to run my electric until the bench work along the wall is done. That way I can place the outlets better. Still need to build my sliding door too. I might be laying track by late spring/ early summer. It’s actually happening!
(Can you tell I’m excited?)
Pictures from last night as the floor was drying. The steps, as I’m typing this.
(Can you tell I’m excited?)
Pictures from last night as the floor was drying. The steps, as I’m typing this.
rgeiter
Conrail Quality
A tiny bit of work done last night. (I still have Hammy sadness, so work is limited.)
Stitching all these individual modules together is a little frustrating to get just right but I’m getting there. I need to widen the modules to 3 foot. I realized I needed to do that after the first one was secured and the second two were only fastened to the wall. Leaving them secured to the wall I extended the frame work and with the first module I added one foot blocks. Works just fine. I’m going to change a few things up on the next wall.
Also reduced the helix curve to 40 inch radius. Fits way better.
Stitching all these individual modules together is a little frustrating to get just right but I’m getting there. I need to widen the modules to 3 foot. I realized I needed to do that after the first one was secured and the second two were only fastened to the wall. Leaving them secured to the wall I extended the frame work and with the first module I added one foot blocks. Works just fine. I’m going to change a few things up on the next wall.
Also reduced the helix curve to 40 inch radius. Fits way better.
BigGRacing
Aka. Gary Russell
Are you laying your track on the plywood with road bed or putting rigid foam board down as well?
rgeiter
Conrail Quality
Not a big fan of foam. My plan is cork on plywood. That could change when track laying nears. Still ripping apart the old modules.
BigGRacing
Aka. Gary Russell
It’s going to be nice for sure!
rgeiter
Conrail Quality
If I were to use foam on the upper level to reduce weight, how would you guys recommend doing that? This was suggested to me by someone here. Never gave it any thought until I realized how heavy the framework is with the half inch plywood screwed down to it. I will be using shelf hangers too.
ctclibby
Well-Known Member
Bob: I don't remember exactly - your upper shelf is 28ish" right? Ditch the 1/2" ply and use 3/16" ply sandwiched with your blue board; assuming you have 16" centers on the joists. If you haven't built the upper shelf, I would go with 1x2" for the framework on 12" centers - only adds a few additional joists and a few more screws. 1" blue board and 1/8" ply then might do the trick. You are not going to walk on it so it can be much lighter in materials. You can probably go with 20" shelf bracket or whatever 2/3's of your width is as you should not be 'front heavy' either as long as the shelf bracket is directly underneath a joist.
L8r
rgeiter
Conrail Quality
My
I considered 1x2’s but will that be deep enough for tortoise switch machines?
When you say “sandwiched”, could you explain that a little more.
I’ve always built flat table top layouts. Building a two level layout with a huge helix and now possibly using foam is a bit overwhelming. Thanks for your input. All is welcomed.
Bob
My second level will be about 20” above the lower level. (Was 24”)
I considered 1x2’s but will that be deep enough for tortoise switch machines?
When you say “sandwiched”, could you explain that a little more.
I’ve always built flat table top layouts. Building a two level layout with a huge helix and now possibly using foam is a bit overwhelming. Thanks for your input. All is welcomed.
Bob
ctclibby
Well-Known Member
Bob: At 20" level to level - are you going to care if the Tortoise hangs down a tad below the framework?
Sandwich - something between something else. In this case, glue between the ply and blue board. Do it on a flat surface with blue board on top. With that on top, you might not have to weigh it down unless the ply is wavy/warped. Note that you still can do 'cookie cutter' style for elevations, you just need to be careful not to cut too deep into the top of the joist. I played with just that when I was testing the 1" blue board on top of ply. Found that I could cut through both pretty easy with a skil saw adjusted at the thickness of the sandwich. I suspect that a small nick on the top of the joist is not going to matter. If you are worried, then cut down to just above the top of the joist and razor saw the remaining.
L8r
[Edit] I also found that with 16" centers, me standing on the sandwich 1 foot on the blue board between joists, they would bend a little but didn't break. I'm 205Lbs - suspect I could jump on them to get it to break, but didn't want to find out and just decided on 12" centers.
Last edited:
rgeiter
Conrail Quality
I will look into the foam sandwich method. Thanks.
As for the tortoise switch machines, I’m going to see what else is available that has a smaller profile and still has the contacts for signaling.
rgeiter
Conrail Quality
Are you using 1x4’s or something else?
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)