The greenbrier logging and coal co


The yard is pretty much tore up. just looked at it. What a disaster area!! Makes me sick. It also makes me want to tear the rest out and toss it in the trash. Instead, I will try and repair or put it all in the bins and forget it, till some time in the future. now, turn off lights so i can't see it...
 

Attachments

  • rsz_20220718_144936.jpg
    rsz_20220718_144936.jpg
    165.8 KB · Views: 71
  • rsz_20220718_144941.jpg
    rsz_20220718_144941.jpg
    166.9 KB · Views: 74
  • rsz_120220718_144930.jpg
    rsz_120220718_144930.jpg
    159.1 KB · Views: 81
all I can say is WOW. had to read the backstory. On my current layout, all switches are manual. The little man has to get out and get the points the right way before the train gets there. More authentic for my railroad.

Dave LASM
 
Problem with Kato, If there is anything in the little hole where the turnout control is, it don't matter which way you go. if there is something in the turnout it won't switch correctly. it may turn or not or not all the way. So.. i am cleaning them all over again. I did this back when i started this layout so it would be clean from the last layout. Right now..wait for it... I am adding 2 foot to this layout so i have a better distance from the sawmill. I am thinking of making it two or three modules. If i have to move it i can do it without tearing it all the way down. Anyway, i got to get back to cleaning turnouts.
I do have a question for you all, can you glue the grasses and some scrubs down before i put the turnouts down. I can vacuum the area down before i put the track and turnouts back in place. Am i crazy or on to something here..or both:confused: Let me know. I need all the help i can get anymore!
 
Problem with Kato, If there is anything in the little hole where the turnout control is, it don't matter which way you go. if there is something in the turnout it won't switch correctly. it may turn or not or not all the way. So.. i am cleaning them all over again. I did this back when i started this layout so it would be clean from the last layout. Right now..wait for it... I am adding 2 foot to this layout so i have a better distance from the sawmill. I am thinking of making it two or three modules. If i have to move it i can do it without tearing it all the way down. Anyway, i got to get back to cleaning turnouts.
I do have a question for you all, can you glue the grasses and some scrubs down before i put the turnouts down. I can vacuum the area down before i put the track and turnouts back in place. Am i crazy or on to something here..or both:confused: Let me know. I need all the help i can get anymore!
You could certainly put your scenics down prior to track laying, although you may want to touchup around the tracks after they’re laid to ensure everything looks it’s best.

You can also lay the track down and than mask it with tape to ensure debris doesn’t get in the turnouts.
 
I tried tape before. It made it into the insides anyway. Gonna try and see if laying down the grasses first. That maybe the best way to do it. Guess i will see and then we'll know.
 
I have shaker bottles and use Aleene's Tacky glue. Use a brush to put the glue down. Tape on the track and a extra piece on the little hole where the manual turnout control is. Out of the 11 i did the scenery around only 2 still worked. The rest were stuck inside the turnout controller.I have been gone for the most part today and will be about half the day tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow evening i will finish them and see if they work right then.
 
I have shaker bottles and use Aleene's Tacky glue. Use a brush to put the glue down. Tape on the track and a extra piece on the little hole where the manual turnout control is. Out of the 11 i did the scenery around only 2 still worked. The rest were stuck inside the turnout controller.I have been gone for the most part today and will be about half the day tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow evening i will finish them and see if they work right then.
Hmm…if the turnouts are taped and you’re only using tacky glue around them, I’m not sure why they would get stuck.
 
Katos are the most real looking i have seen. That said, they are the most finicky out there too. They don't like dirt, dust or anything else but some graphite to lube the innards. That hole for the control of the direction of the turnout will over time can still get some dirt into them. If its just some dust it can still work correctly. Now, that said, It will start acting up over time. sometimes using canned air will get the dust out. What seems to happen with mine, is the frogs won't go all the way to the end of travel but hang up somewhere in the middle and the train will jump track. I had no issue wit them till i was starting the grass and earth powders. even with the tape it still got in. I think what happened was it built up on the ballast and then was able to get into the inside of the turnout itself. If something gets on the track itself can be cleaned by can air on the track surface. The track itself is really good track and will continue to use it on any layout i may make in the future. The turnouts can be a royal pain but taking care they don't give any issues at all. I know that atlas has some of the same issues with the controller but is easier to clean. But, they look so out of scale and just plain ugly, i would never use them in any future layout. I never used Micro Engineering or Peco but I have heard mixed reports of Pecos about the springs getting weak from use over time causing the same issue as Kato. Not sure about other types of track. Anyway, i never had much of a issue till i was doing scenery with grasses and earth. Those powders just can wreck turnouts and i would think the other brands as well.
 
I’m having an issue with one of my Kato turnouts too. Probably the glue I used but the weathering powders could have also caused the problem. It isn’t too bad, just a little resistance when using the DPDT toggles I wired in. Still working on getting it back to 100% tho.
 
you know, I love Kato, but wish they could rework the controls inside the turnout. Maybe a rubber boot for the turnout frog maybe? Something to keep dust and other dirt, from getting in the insides of the turnout. Not sure how they could do it, But would be great!
 
Well out of 11 i have 5 done and on the way. I have one that will not let me fix. I am not sure why. The other five went together and work perfect but one is not letting me fix it. I have 5 to finish and i may have to buy another one to replace it. Shots of the fun below.
 

Attachments

  • rsz_20220723_145329.jpg
    rsz_20220723_145329.jpg
    228.4 KB · Views: 68
  • rsz_20220723_145344.jpg
    rsz_20220723_145344.jpg
    229.4 KB · Views: 62
Final score is 2 that will not let me fix them. Two new ones are over 70 bucks with shipping. I'm on ssi so that really would take a bite from my money.I was looking to see if i had any more #4 rh turnouts. Nope but i came across 2 #6 old model turnouts that were used when i got them around 8-9 years ago. . After checking them out they both work Manual and electric. There is a lot of plastic and rail off both ends of the actual turnout. I have nothing to loose and decided that i couldn't use the #6 in place any where on the new layout. After looking how it is built i cut off all that extra plastic and the finished turnout is about 1/2 inch longer than the #4;s. I checking things out i got two places i can get away with them. So i am ready for scenery! Shots below, smoke
 

Attachments

  • rsz_20220725_143002.jpg
    rsz_20220725_143002.jpg
    212.6 KB · Views: 50
  • rsz_20220725_132945.jpg
    rsz_20220725_132945.jpg
    241.4 KB · Views: 50
I’m having an issue with one of my Kato turnouts too. Probably the glue I used but the weathering powders could have also caused the problem. It isn’t too bad, just a little resistance when using the DPDT toggles I wired in. Still working on getting it back to 100% tho.
The shots above show a turnout with cover off. Shot here of the cover removed and finished. Note to clean the turnout put in water and let it soak for awhile, "Up to a day". Clean up the exterior and open the case up and using canned air blow the insides dry. Lift the switch control,: black plastic with magnets on each end. Clean up that area with a q tip and alcohol. let dry. The little brass wire is a spring that is held in place by a clip, (also black, little ..box if you will and the other end on the switch leveler. I clean all around that spot. Let it dry. When its all dry i use some powdered Graphite on the area the black lever and add some to the top when its back together and the switch itself. Don't put to much on it just some for lube. Make sure the black lever is in place and also the magnet and the controller,(brass), little box is in place. Put the cover on and screw it together and slide the black lever back and forth to see if it works then. After that try with electric and see it work with electric too. If it don't try adding a bit of the graphite to the little lever that holds the turnout rails in place.I made these options from a video that Mike Fifer made back a couple of years ago. Check his site out and look for the video. its on you tube. His way works i would say 100% as i did this with mine back a year ago when i tore up the old layout #5. All worked perfect, so i having lost two was because of age. Some of mine are 6 or better years old. Good luck with yours. Smoke
 

Attachments

  • rsz_20220725_144312.jpg
    rsz_20220725_144312.jpg
    187.1 KB · Views: 50
  • rsz_120220725_144312.jpg
    rsz_120220725_144312.jpg
    187.1 KB · Views: 52
The shots above show a turnout with cover off. Shot here of the cover removed and finished. Note to clean the turnout put in water and let it soak for awhile, "Up to a day". Clean up the exterior and open the case up and using canned air blow the insides dry. Lift the switch control,: black plastic with magnets on each end. Clean up that area with a q tip and alcohol. let dry. The little brass wire is a spring that is held in place by a clip, (also black, little ..box if you will and the other end on the switch leveler. I clean all around that spot. Let it dry. When its all dry i use some powdered Graphite on the area the black lever and add some to the top when its back together and the switch itself. Don't put to much on it just some for lube. Make sure the black lever is in place and also the magnet and the controller,(brass), little box is in place. Put the cover on and screw it together and slide the black lever back and forth to see if it works then. After that try with electric and see it work with electric too. If it don't try adding a bit of the graphite to the little lever that holds the turnout rails in place.I made these options from a video that Mike Fifer made back a couple of years ago. Check his site out and look for the video. its on you tube. His way works i would say 100% as i did this with mine back a year ago when i tore up the old layout #5. All worked perfect, so i having lost two was because of age. Some of mine are 6 or better years old. Good luck with yours. Smoke
Thanks for this! I think I’ve got the turnout where I want it for now but I’m sure over time I’ll need to take it apart and give it a good cleaning.
 
yeah, i know. I cleaned mine up last year. They worked correctly till i started doing the scenery and even with tape it gummed up the works. So i am going to do the grasses and after making sure i have it all down good, i will lay down the track and turnouts. I hope i don't have to do this again.
 
I did most of the scenery on the layout so i can relay the track and turnouts down. I have most of it done. I used the bare pink board to figure out where to put scenery and not have to waste any of it. I may have to clean up the track on the layout yet as i got glue and scenery stuff on them. Thats easy. A bit of Alcohol and q tip and its will clean right up. I have been using a firm hold hair spray to glue things down. Once it drys no more sticky. It holds on to the rest of whatever yo put down on it.I have shakers for the different colors of ground. I use three colors and some cinders in some places. Also have some of the ground cover made by Kato to clean up the ballast. I also use some shrubs to break up the ground. shots below of the start of the scenery and i will show the difference when i get track back down and nailed down.
 

Attachments

  • rsz_20220726_162242.jpg
    rsz_20220726_162242.jpg
    115.8 KB · Views: 56
  • rsz_20220726_162254.jpg
    rsz_20220726_162254.jpg
    90 KB · Views: 54
  • rsz_20220726_162238.jpg
    rsz_20220726_162238.jpg
    110.3 KB · Views: 58
Not sure the hair spray is the best product for permanent ground cover, may be what ultimately gums up your works. For permanent adhesion, I would suggest a commercial glue type product. I think Scenic Cement by Woodland Scenics or Matte Medium liquid as they have a good shelf life also work. A home mixed mixture with white school glue, Dawn detergent and/or Alcohol probably better than hair spray too.

Just an opinion but know hair spray is designed to move some and not permanent adhesion.
 
I used this one on the mountain. Its still strong. This is one for the older Beehive type haircuts i think. Pretty good so far. I guess i will find out down the road. I am sore from working on my truck, so i don't think i will be doing much on it today. Laters
 
I used this one on the mountain. Its still strong. This is one for the older Beehive type haircuts i think. Pretty good so far. I guess i will find out down the road. I am sore from working on my truck, so i don't think i will be doing much on it today. Laters
Sore from working on my truck too. Had to put on a new gas tank strap, beat up my hands pretty bad also nasty cut on forehead.

BeeHive hair spray may be fine! Just thought I would throw that other idea out there, I used hair spray some for tree making but found Scenic Cement to be more secure.
 



Back
Top