BigGRacing
Aka. Gary Russell
I saved that file, thank you!
The 60/40 Layout And Other Railway Related Things
- Thread starter Smudge617
- Start date
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Looks like the plastic putty works, my 2 cents is JB weld 2 part epoxy, kwik set. I use it everywhere to reinforce stuff, from steel to plastic to wood. I use it on most of my small truck models where I think something will fall off.
I mix up a small batch with a toothpick, and dab onto the clean surface. You only have about 30 seconds to place it, however if you do small batches it works well for many jobs.
Dave LASM
Even if you're not interested check this out.
westhillwagonworks.com
What I like about this idea is that the masts have a magnet in the base and sit on top of another magnet embedded in the layout, so it's easy to remove for track maintenance etc., even if you knock them over they won't break
The Inclinometer is a great addition to my toolbox. using a spirit level, which is what I originally used to lay the track, simply isn't accurate enough and I think at $13(+-) it's a great buy.
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Smudge617
Well-Known Member
My army buddy arrives tomorrow, so just doing some odds and ends as he wants me to fix his EFE 1938 London Underground Train as it suddenly doesn't run, as well as add directional lighting.
Did some work on the BMT train.
The guard rail on this coaling tower were forever falling off and I got fed up of glueing them back on, my answer, use plastic putty around the base of the stanchions and weathered them.
Also re-did the lighting for it, the SMDs I used weren't up to the task.
The Athearn RTR Plug 'n Play SD40-2 I bought recently stumped me for a while, in forwards it reversed, and reverse it went forwards, CV 29 was at 255, so I switched Railcom off in JMRI and changed CV29 from 255 to 38, also checked it wasn't in a consist and tried again to no avail, I'm not that familir with Zimo decoders so I factory reset the decoder but it still went a** backwards when in forwards, I was going to remove the bodyshell but decided it would be simpler to change CV29 to 39 and enable NDOT, but I'll have a ferkle later to see what's going on.
Did some work on the BMT train.
The guard rail on this coaling tower were forever falling off and I got fed up of glueing them back on, my answer, use plastic putty around the base of the stanchions and weathered them.
Also re-did the lighting for it, the SMDs I used weren't up to the task.
The Athearn RTR Plug 'n Play SD40-2 I bought recently stumped me for a while, in forwards it reversed, and reverse it went forwards, CV 29 was at 255, so I switched Railcom off in JMRI and changed CV29 from 255 to 38, also checked it wasn't in a consist and tried again to no avail, I'm not that familir with Zimo decoders so I factory reset the decoder but it still went a** backwards when in forwards, I was going to remove the bodyshell but decided it would be simpler to change CV29 to 39 and enable NDOT, but I'll have a ferkle later to see what's going on.
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Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Visited Westhill Wagon works with my buddy yesterday and bought some goodies.
He also brought his EFE (Bachmann) 1938 London underground Train, or the motor units anyway, this one would'nt move, apart from dirty wheels somehow the idler gear jammed and the worm brass gear eat the idler gear teeth, so ordered a complete truck, I'll have to send it on tho.
Also added some lights, need to tweak the decoder for it but a real PITA to do, and I still have the other unit to do, but at least that one runs.
EFE Underground train..mp4
He also brought his EFE (Bachmann) 1938 London underground Train, or the motor units anyway, this one would'nt move, apart from dirty wheels somehow the idler gear jammed and the worm brass gear eat the idler gear teeth, so ordered a complete truck, I'll have to send it on tho.
Also added some lights, need to tweak the decoder for it but a real PITA to do, and I still have the other unit to do, but at least that one runs.
EFE Underground train..mp4
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logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
Chris,
Looks like the plastic putty works, my 2 cents is JB weld 2 part epoxy, kwik set. I use it everywhere to reinforce stuff, from steel to plastic to wood. I use it on most of my small truck models where I think something will fall off.
I mix up a small batch with a toothpick, and dab onto the clean surface. You only have about 30 seconds to place it, however if you do small batches it works well for many jobs.
Dave LASM
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Thanks Dave, I've used JB Weld on larger projects it's great stuff but for a small job the plastic putty is fine for this
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Been a busy week on the 60/40 layout.
8X Roco DB coaches, part of the BMT, all fitted with anti-flicker interior lights.
4X OO scale Hornby HST coaches, (two boxed) also fitted with anti-flicker/dimmer lights. There are two power cars; one has Loksound, and the dummy car is now fitted with a motor and Lokpilot. Lights were added in both cars, and speed matched.
Finally got round to adding numbers to the number boards on my GP60, each number is individually mounted, so sorry they're not quite straight.
8X Roco DB coaches, part of the BMT, all fitted with anti-flicker interior lights.
4X OO scale Hornby HST coaches, (two boxed) also fitted with anti-flicker/dimmer lights. There are two power cars; one has Loksound, and the dummy car is now fitted with a motor and Lokpilot. Lights were added in both cars, and speed matched.
Finally got round to adding numbers to the number boards on my GP60, each number is individually mounted, so sorry they're not quite straight.
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Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
The GP60 looks great!
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Thank you.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
So I've been having some issues with my Hornby Class 43 HST, one of the power cars was screeching like the devil, on investigation it seems the upgraded motor had given up the ghost, so I swapped it out for a spare.
Also when I was at WestHill Wagon Works earlier this year I picked up a set of Hunt Magnetic couplings to try out, but finding a decent NEM conversion kit that works was being a pain, eventually I found some specifically for a Hornby HST car and passenger cars, so I did the conversion popped in the magnetic couplings and gave it a whirl.
Now as you know, my layout doesn't have generous curves so I was expecting them to fail, I also didn't attach the second power car to see if these magnetic couplings would actually work without a pusher to help keep them together.
HST3.mp4
So then I decided to give them a real test.
HST1.mp4
Throttle to the max, and the couplings work as advertised, seems I'll need to purchase some more of them.
Also when I was at WestHill Wagon Works earlier this year I picked up a set of Hunt Magnetic couplings to try out, but finding a decent NEM conversion kit that works was being a pain, eventually I found some specifically for a Hornby HST car and passenger cars, so I did the conversion popped in the magnetic couplings and gave it a whirl.
Now as you know, my layout doesn't have generous curves so I was expecting them to fail, I also didn't attach the second power car to see if these magnetic couplings would actually work without a pusher to help keep them together.
HST3.mp4
So then I decided to give them a real test.
HST1.mp4
Throttle to the max, and the couplings work as advertised, seems I'll need to purchase some more of them.
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Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I went to the Factory/Shop where they're made, small firm but has some great ideas when it comes to railway modelling.
Even if you're not interested check this out.
Series 1 Single Insulated Cantilever Catenary & Accessories (Set 3)
What I like about this idea is that the masts have a magnet in the base and sit on top of another magnet embedded in the layout, so it's easy to remove for track maintenance etc., even if you knock them over they won't break
santafewillie
Same Ol' Buzzard
That's a cool idea.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I think so, expensive mind you but when you consider the cost of replacing one or the time it takes to build a new one I think it's worth it.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Haven't posted here for a while, so this is what I'm up to at the minute.
I have this crossover, generally it works ok, but I keep having locos stall or wagons derail.
The reason is quite obvious I think, the two tracks are definitely not level.
So I've removed the track, cork road bed etc. and this is what I now have.
I can correct this slightly by using some cork sheet that I have BUT the angle still varies.
Anyone who suggests rebuilding the board from scratch, sorry that's not happening, my health has deteriorated over the last few years so it now makes it impossible to even try.
So what to do ?
I can build it level by using cork, which is the cleaner way (less mess to deal with) but it's likely that it will remain uneven in places but less than it is at present.
I'm actually thinking of using plaster (in small amounts) to build the track bed. This would allow me to work on small sections and keep it level. An added benefit would be that any high points can be sanded down and low points built up. However, it will be a messy process. Anyone who's used plaster knows the dust ends up literally everywhere.
I have this crossover, generally it works ok, but I keep having locos stall or wagons derail.
The reason is quite obvious I think, the two tracks are definitely not level.
So I've removed the track, cork road bed etc. and this is what I now have.
I can correct this slightly by using some cork sheet that I have BUT the angle still varies.
Anyone who suggests rebuilding the board from scratch, sorry that's not happening, my health has deteriorated over the last few years so it now makes it impossible to even try.
So what to do ?
I can build it level by using cork, which is the cleaner way (less mess to deal with) but it's likely that it will remain uneven in places but less than it is at present.
I'm actually thinking of using plaster (in small amounts) to build the track bed. This would allow me to work on small sections and keep it level. An added benefit would be that any high points can be sanded down and low points built up. However, it will be a messy process. Anyone who's used plaster knows the dust ends up literally everywhere.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Same what @Rico suggested, use thin strips of styrene (.010) to level up. Stalling issues might stem from those jumpers on the closer switch, these look like old Atlas switches and most of my switches are Atlas, i don't have problems with locomotives stalling. Maybe connecting extra wires to the diagonal rail between the switches might help.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I hadn't thought about using styrene shims, thanks. As they come in various thicknesses, I might even be able to get the tracks level or closer than I would have. Great idea.
The Inclinometer is a great addition to my toolbox. using a spirit level, which is what I originally used to lay the track, simply isn't accurate enough and I think at $13(+-) it's a great buy.
The stalling issue isn't the jumpers, they're there to add power to the blade, as these are Hornby insulfrogs, moving the switches also isn't an option as I simply don't have the space. But adding another set of feeders is definitely worth doing.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Just finished leveling an area on my layout with some plaster and that dust went everywhere. Definitely not ideal lol but sometimes it’s necessary.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
True, I think I'll try the Styrene method first, if I can't get that to work for me plaster it is.
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