Stripping Factory Paint?


goscrewyourselves

goscrewyourselves

I'm the one
I know, I know I know, this has been asked a million times before and I probably should know the answer to the question I am about to ask; however, I have forgotten it hence the question ......

What is the best, quickest and most effective way to strip the factory paint and decals from a "NEW" Micro Trains passenger car??
 
I did a grain train a couple of years ago. Painted over the original paint. I tried to remove the paint but it's too hard to get into tight areas. Here is a before and after.
IMG_3640.jpg
IMG_3272.jpg
 
Looks good mate - thanks. I know how hard it is getting the factory paint off. Quite a few years ago I stripped the same set back and it took ages to do. I might just strip the decals, give them a wipe over with alcohol then paint them as you have done.
 
wombat457 said:
I think when I did before I used a VERY light touch of acetone (which made getting the decals off easy) followed by a healthy wash of alcohol :)
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I have used acetone before on larger thicker decals. It works faster but you would have to use fine sandpaper (4000 grit for example) to smooth out any paint that gets removed.
 
wombat457 said:
I know, I know I know, this has been asked a million times before and I probably should know the answer to the question I am about to ask; however, I have forgotten it hence the question ......

What is the best, quickest and most effective way to strip the factory paint and decals from a "NEW" Micro Trains passenger car??
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Soaking in break fluid. Did several Atlas shells that way. But, on some lighter polystyrene the break fluid will actually attack the plastic so one has to be really careful how much and how long using solvents on the things.
 
I'm not sure if they make it anymore, but I've still got a can of Polly S ELO-- Easy Lift Off paint and decal remover. I haven't needed to use it in years, but I recall it's pretty strong stuff. It'll curl up most hobby paints like a commercial paint stripper. On the back of the can, it says it was made by Floquil.

It looks like Testors may now market it, I see online that they sell something with a similar name. Don't know whether the formula has changed, however.

IMG-5779.jpg
 
I’ve used Pine Sol with good results. Although not the fastest method, it didn’t damage the body. Picked up a repainted shell out of the free bin at a train show. 3 days later the enamel based paint lifted off except in the detailed areas. 2 days of soak & scrub with a soft toothbrush pulled out the remaining goop. Decals brushed off easily afterwards.
 
Probably as good a place as any to point out "factory paint" these days means ink, as far as logos go. Ink pad printing, and not decals, so if you are looking to remove ink, you might narrow your searches a bit:


^^^@25:50 the focus becomes paint and logos. Definitely worth a look.

@27:56, and again @30:00. Pad printing.

Floquil paints were lacquer based, and carried with them all the associated risks. Not for nothing, either--there was a well known custom painter, and I wish I could remember his name, other than "Kelly"...

...anyway, he did jobs for quite a few model railroaders...and eventually died. It was thought this was because he didn't take sufficient precautions using the paints.

I have the idea his death is a large part of the reason we no longer see much of the lacquer based paints in the hobby.
 
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This is one place to start: https://www.ehow.com/facts_7637251_can-thinner-used-remove-ink.html

Like I said, "your searches." There will probably be different methods that work better with different brands of models--this is how it was back in the day anyway. I recall using heavy bodied paint stripper on at least one occasion, and it worked in that it did not craze the model's plastic body at all. I'm sure it wouldn't have done plastic windows or aircraft canopies any good though. :D

Note: As you scroll further down the list, there is mention of acetone. I use this myself with regard to epoxies and cleanup when I build the occasional golf club, but know that it does have its own risks. Supposedly acetone is a carcinogen, but more practically it also crazes plastics. Like your glasses lenses or your contact lenses.

Whatever you do, I would suggest going slow and watching the removal very carefully until you know it works well. Take notes, and note of the manufacturer too if you can find it. And then come back next week and tell US. :D

ANY feedback is appreciated, particularly when based on actual experience.
 
As an aside: Your hat looks better on you than mine does on me, so I think I'll go back to a golf cap--I know when I'm outclassed.

I'll shave too. My beard has this weird "dark mostly on the one side" thing goin' on....
 
Snowman said:
Your hat looks better on you than mine does on me, so I think I'll go back to a golf cap--I know when I'm outclassed.
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:D Don't be - that was way back when I was a Civil War Living Historian - so the hat was part and parcel and I lost the beard, too itchy for me. If you like that hat though, I reckon you'd like my 100% Aussie Acubra then :)
 
I remove factory paint by soaking in 91% isopropyl alcohol. After several hours I give it a quick brush with a soft toothbrush and I'm done.
I have removed lettering from tenders by using original GoJo hand cleaner. I just dab a good covering of the creamy hand cleaner on lettering to be removed, then I cover the area with plastic wrap as the hand cleaner will dry up in a short time if left out in the air. Again the soft toothbrush finishes the job.
Be sure to use the original GoJo, not with pumice or other stuff.
Hey.....it is what works for me.
I don't think I would ever expose plastic to acetone for any length of time. That stuff will melt plastic thus making it a very good glue while using sparingly. It most likely will remove paint or lettering but it would be my guess the plastic underneath will need a lot of help afterwards.

Take care....John
 
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