soldering track


brubakes

brubakes

Member
I've never soldered my track before (this going back to when I was a kid) and now that I am going to start a "real" model railroad I know its a must. However, I'm looking at my flex track now and the rail joiners I have installed while I start playing with my test test and I see no room for solder to fit in the rails. Is there a special rail joiner for this or is this again one of those simple things I'm making way overly complicated.
 
Hi, I have not soldered any rails yet as I too am starting my first full fledged layout but I do know a little about soldering. If you have ever seen someone solder copper pipe there is no room for the solder to draw down between the pipes and fittings. The way it works is when you heat up the metal and lay the solder on it, the heat actually draws the solder into the crevice (yes there actually is one) Although it is too small for the eye to see, there is a gap between the two. The best thing I can suggest is to take some scraps and do some soldering on them so you can get the "feel" for it. It takes a delicate touch but once you see the solder draw in between the two pieces you will understand. Best of luck and if anyone thinks I am off base...PLEASE correct me!

Ron
 
All you do is cut off a tie or two from the end where the joiner will be. Turn the flex track upside down and cut through the web then slide the tie or ties off the rails. Once the rail joiners are soldered in place you can file down the molded spikes and tie plates until the ties are flat enough to slide back under the rails and joiners. A drop of white glue will hold them in place until you get around to ballasting the track. Alternately pick up a bag of wood ties and sand or file them enough to slip under the rails as with the plastic ties. I use the wood ties because they are less work to thin down and add some variety to the trackwork.

As far as the rail joiners you simply use regular ones for the code track you have. Although they are a tight fit there is enough room for the solder to flow in. All it takes is a drop or two to make a good electrical connection.
 
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Yup, that's how it works. Take a joiner, turn it so that an open end faces you, and look at the profile inside the 'fold'. Now turn a piece of rail on its end and have a gander. See the difference? Lots of space in there for liquid solder that hardens a half second later.

Use flux.

-Crandell
 
The key is to get the rail and joiner hot enough that the solder instantly melts and flows when you touch the solder to the joiner. If it doesn't flow, then the joiner is not hot enough.

So the procedure is:

  1. Remove the ties on either side of the join as described above (to keep them from being melted during the soldering operation).
  2. Assemble the two pieces of track with joiners.
  3. Touch the soldering iron to one of the joiners and let the joiner heat up.
  4. Keeping the iron on the joiner, touch the solder to the joiner (not to the soldering iron). The solder should immediately melt and flow into the joiner.
  5. Remove the solder and iron and allow the joiner and track to cool.

General Soldering Tips

Keep It Clean
Have a damp sponge or cloth handy, and wipe the hot tip of the soldering iron on it before and after each and every soldering operation. Do this every time so that it becomes a habit. The result will be better, more reliable solder joints and a longer lifetime for your soldering iron tips.

Heat the Work, Not the Solder
Proper technique is to get the parts you are soldering (the work) hot enough that the solder will melt and flow over the parts without the soldering iron touching the solder. If you don't get the work hot enough, you can end up with a "cold" solder joint, one that is electrically poor and subject to failure. A proper solder joint will be smooth and shiny. If it is lumpy, dull, or grainy looking, it's a cold joint and may not be reliable.

A Common Mistake
Accumulating a blob of solder on the tip of the iron and then touching it to the joiner is definitely NOT the right way to do it! This will greatly increase the odds of a cold solder joint.

About Flux
Flux is a material that helps clean the parts you are soldering and remove oxidation. Most electronics solder is made with flux built in. This is often called "rosin-core solder."

Separate flux in the form of a paste is also available. To use it, smear a little of the paste flux over the parts just before you solder them, using a toothpick. Even if you are already using rosin-core solder, a little extra paste flux can result in better and easier soldering.

If you use a separate flux, be sure to use only flux designed for electronic soldering. DO NOT use the corrosive acid type flux intended for plumbing!

Remember: Wipe the tip of your iron on your damp sponge or cloth before and after each soldering operation. Never let more than a very thin coating of solder accumulate on the tip.

- Jeff
 
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brubakes said:
I've never soldered my track before (this going back to when I was a kid) and now that I am going to start a "real" model railroad I know its a must.
Click to expand...
Where did you get that idea? I say hog wash. In general the only time I solder a rail joint is when it is flex track or hand laid track on a curve. I really never solder pre-made (manufactured) turnouts. I've been doing layouts for over 40 years now with almost zero track related problems. Solder is often used as a quick fix to poor trackwork, while good trackwork does not "need" to be soldered. A club I used to belong to actually started having more track problems (due to expansion / contraction) after they decided to "fix" a few issues by soldering rail joints. A smaller layout would not have such problems.

I'm looking at my flex track now and the rail joiners I have installed while I start playing with my test test and I see no room for solder to fit in the rails. Is there a special rail joiner for this or is this again one of those simple things I'm making way overly complicated.
Click to expand...
Yes, making it overly complicated. In a properly done joint the solder will be sucked into the cracks by capillary action.

NH Mike said:
All you do is cut off a tie or two from the end where the joiner will be.
Click to expand...
While I know this is not the question that was being asked, it is possible to make flex track connections without cutting any ties off. Simply cut the "spikes" off and trim the top of the tie under the rail down about 1/32". Slide the joiner into the knotch you just made. If the joints in the rails are staggered then there never has to be a place where a real molded on spike is not holding one side of the rail or the other. Nether do you have to go back and fill in the gaps with fake ties.
 
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I've melted a few pounds of solder over the last 45 years professionally and I agree with everything Jeff has written under the "soldering tips". Once you get the hang of it and have the proper soldering wattage and tip (I prefer 1/8" chisel) you should be able to solder anything anywhere on the layout. I never have found adding extra flux necessary unless the joint is dirty/corroded and then you should clean it and not gunk it. (If the solder doesn't flow easily, the joint is probably dirty or your iron or joint is not hot enough.)

The purpose of the soldering is not for mechanical connection, but for enhancing electrical contact and has nothing to do with good or bad trackwork. Soldering the joints will keep the connection "clean" and prevent paints, glues, grime, or corrosion to eventually work their way into the joiner.

Because the solder is not for mechanical strength, a type of solder to use to make things easier and instead of general purpose 60/40 is Rosin Core "62/36/2 Silver Bearing Solder". It has a lower melting point and you can get on and off a joint much faster. It cost a wee more, but very much worth it. ;)
 
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jdetray said:
An excellent question! Perhaps the moderators can merge the two threads.

It's rather difficult to follow a discussion when the responses are divided between multiple threads.

- Jeff
Click to expand...

That was my fault. Computer glitch on my end when I submitted the 1st one and didn't work so I did it a 2nd time. Yes mods please merge if possible.
 
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