Soldering Track Gaps?

[Richard Boddington]

Hi,

I have a couple of gaps in my track, big enough to throw off the the front small pilot wheels of my steam train every once in a while. The diesels run over these gaps just fine.

I have tried test soldering track gaps but it just makes a mess and the solder doesn't fill the gap.

Any ideas on how to fix this? It's almost like I need some sort of putty in the gap that I can shape and smooth.

Yes I know there should not be gaps in the first place, it's a long long story I'll spare you the details

R,

 

[macjet]

Would it be possible to cut a piece of rail and solder that in place?

 

[mike8693]

If its not a really big gap You could glue in a piece of styrene and file it down, like you would if you were isolating a section of track. as long as you have power on both sides it should be fine.

 

[kenw]

i've used the styrene on some of mine, it works great. If there is no joiner, (there should be for alignment), solder a jumper wire one each side 1st.

 

[Selector]

I have just resorted to using bits of plastic model sprue. It is a test at times to shape something that will fit, but you can save yourself some time and just slide in a piece of plastic that is the right size for the gap, no matter its other dimensions, and glue it into place with some epoxy. Go easy on whatever glue you use..you don't want to have to sand and carve glue later, especially some super glues. Later, take a sharp hobby blade and simply carve out what you don't want there...or more correctly, what your locomotive doesn't want there. Finally, use a small file and smooth and shape the item until your finger barely detects it. Once your engine gives you the thumbs-up, you can return to regularly scheduled, hassle-free train fun.

I believe that something like a blob of hardening putty, like Durhams, would do as well. Just do the huge bulk of the shaping and trimming before it has become too hard.

 

[Trucula]

One thing to remember, you do need some gap for expansion.(Just as real lines) We had a large curve expand clean out of the ballast. This is a problem in a room that changes temperature allot.
Tho I understand what your saying, we have a bad gap in our E.B.T. HOn3 section that has to be corrected or those engines will never cross it. I am going to try some of the options above to see what works. Thanks guys!

 

[UP2CSX]

I've used the plastic sprue fix before and it works fine as long as you don't end up isolating the two sections of rail. As has been said, I solder a jumper between the two rails just in case.

 

[Richard Boddington]

Well I seem to have solved the problem with solder.

I put a glob of solder on the gap, then used my dremel tool to smooth down the top to perfect track height with the stone wheel tool. The I used the cutting and sanding disc to remove the excess solder from the sides of the repair.

At first I thought the dremel would just shoot out the solder but the solder held up great. It works so well I fixed all of the gaps in the track! Looks ok too, there is just a silver "weld" on the track.

The dremel works great and allows you to do precision work to shape the solder. The steam train pilot wheels will now navigate the repaired piece of track 99.9% of the time vs only 50% of the time before, a big improvement.

R,

 

[UP2CSX]

Richard, good to hear the solder blob worked. Now, your goal should be not to lay any further track with gaps big enough to need a blob.

 

[Richard Boddington]

Richard, good to hear the solder blob worked. Now, your goal should be not to lay any further track with gaps big enough to need a blob.

Yes indeed!

R,

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

There's two ways I handle things like gaps. #1: I trim a piece of plastic to fit in the gap or #2: I place some modeling clay on both sides of the gap and fill the remaining hole with hot solder, let it cool, remove the clay and file the solder so it matches the rail.