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I have finally started a layout... a very, very small layout, and I'm wondering what the best way is to make the scenery. I started by trying to use sheet cork but the cork I found is too thin to work in the containers that I intend to build the layout in and the 2" foam is too thick for the same reason... also I haven't found a way to cut it the way I want and yes I have tried the woodland scenics foam cutter and foam cutters of a few other brands but none of them can cut as wide as I need the foam... but I also don't want to use a saw because of the mess... any suggestions?
i use saws, files, retracting knives to cut the 2" foam. i keep small hand held vacuum for the unavoidable mess.
also look in the scenery forum and see how people approach scenery without the foam
If I understood the post correctly, 2-in thick extruded styrofoam (pink or blue) is too thick? How about trying 1-inch thick?
It's always good to provide adequate information that helps people answer questions. What do you mean by, "the containers:" how large are they; what shape are they, etc? And hey, a picture is worth a thousand words.
Ray
I have finally started a layout... a very, very small layout, and I'm wondering what the best way is to make the scenery. I started by trying to use sheet cork but the cork I found is too thin to work in the containers that I intend to build the layout in and the 2" foam is too thick for the same reason... also I haven't found a way to cut it the way I want and yes I have tried the woodland scenics foam cutter and foam cutters of a few other brands but none of them can cut as wide as I need the foam... but I also don't want to use a saw because of the mess... any suggestions?
Hi Casey,
I'd really like to see what you come up with, as I'll also be doing a very small layout. Have you seen Carl Arendt's
Small Layout Scrapbook? It's a treasure chest of ideas.
Greg
Hot-wire foam cutters are fairly primitive, and as such can easily be modified for larger jobs. All you need is a power transformer (mine came with a 9v AC wall-wart) and a nickel-chrome (nichrome) wire. If the wire's too short, I'm sure you can find some online. If the arms are the issue, get some steel mending strap or something (anything conductive) and bend it to the size/shape you need. Then wire up the nichrome to the transformer and there you go. You can easily scale a foam cutter up to do whatever you need it to. (If it gets really big though you may need a more powerful transformer to keep it as hot.)
Sawing foam does create quite a mess but it's nothing a vacuum won't pick up. Use a good sharp saw, lay down some plastic or something, and keep the vacuum close by so you don't track foam through the house going to get it.
It's always good to provide adequate information that helps people answer questions. What do you mean by, "the containers:" how large are they; what shape are they, etc? And hey, a picture is worth a thousand words.
Ray
the containers are 30 in by about 6 in rectangles that are normally used to hold planters ... once i get my camera and software working i will hopefully get some pictures that i can attach to this thread
Hi Casey,
I'd really like to see what you come up with, as I'll also be doing a very small layout. Have you seen Carl Arendt's
Small Layout Scrapbook? It's a treasure chest of ideas.
Greg
the site that you mentioned is one of my favorite model railroading sites and that is where i got alot of the ideas for my layout from
a few more good questions... what type of adhesive is recommended for foam to plastic and foam to foam bonding? i was thinking of using rubber cement so can someone please warn me if that isnt going to work or if it will eat through the foam
and from the same train of thought, what should i use to get my n scale KATO unitrak to stick to the foam?
Rubber cement is solvent based and will eat right through foam. As a general, all purpose glue for anything being attached to foam, adhesive latex caulk in tubes is about as good as you can get. It's cheap, strong, but can be removed with no damage to the foam by soaking it in warm water for about 15 minutes and then prying up the track with a wide putty knife.
gluing plaster rock molds to foam i used the cheapest caulk i could find - wallmart 1 or 1.2$ a tube i think.
Rubber cement is solvent based and will eat right through foam. As a general, all purpose glue for anything being attached to foam, adhesive latex caulk in tubes is about as good as you can get. It's cheap, strong, but can be removed with no damage to the foam by soaking it in warm water for about 15 minutes and then prying up the track with a wide putty knife.
thanks for the warning and thanks for the advice... i dont think that ive ever heard of how to get the caulk to seperate before
land scaping
well i use hot glue and thin cardboard after its set i cover it with cermaic tile cement the fast drying after it drys i paint it for wall or rock colors if you want grass just use the cement flat make hills if you wish it work good so give it a try b.n.s.f. pete
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