Should I oil the axels on my rolling stock?

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LordVokk

New Member
Ok...I'm still new to this....all my docs say "oil and lube" the engine, but they don't say anything about putting oil on the axels of the rolling stock. I question if its need to be if the trucks are plastic, but I did buy a couple of cars that have all metal trucks. Any thoughts on oil on both the plastic trucks and the metal trucks?

Thanks in advance!

-Lord Vokk
 
I would think that the oil would pick up dust and dirt over time and make things worse.
I use a truck tuner. I use it on all of my plastic wheel sets even if they are brand new.

Taken from the Micro Marks web page.
Our Truck Tuner reconditions your HO gauge railroad truck bearings so cars roll smoother with less friction. Simply insert the tool in place of a wheelset and rotate the shank. Truck Tuner's extra-sharp tool-steel cutter reshapes the bearing to the NMRA's recommended 60 degree contour and cleans out burrs and grime. Repeat for all bearings and your car is ready to really roll. Increases train lengths that locomotives can pull by up to 20 percent! For HO standard gauge trucks only.

I have seen them for sale on other web pages and in LHS but I get all of my tools from Micro Mark. http://www.micromark.com/

Hope this helps.
 
NO oil! Use the truck tuner & if you feel you should use a lubricant use only graphite & while you are at it, use the graphite in the coupler box also. Jerry
 


oil will only attract and retain dirt and dust. And regardless of the viscosity originally, it will most definitely add drag as time goes on due to the stuff it collects around the layout.

I have used (but no longer) dry teflon powder for break-in on new rolling stock (not engines). It lubes while the plastic and metal are seating to each other, and eventually goes away except for a minute amounts that buries itself into the plastic. It doesn't attract or retain dirt or moisture and is plastic-safe. However, it is very messy and I found the benefit of using on my new replacement wheels was zip. It helped a lot on stock Athearn. MDC, etc wheelsets. But once I got rid of those and went to higher grade wheelsets it was no longer needed.

Decent modern trucks are made of delrin and other inherently slippery plastics and most decent wheels have highly pointed ends that reduce the contact area. once the metal axle and plastic have conformed to each other, lube is really not needed. If you are using the stock wheelsets, just changing the wheel/axles using the same truck frames can make a huge improvement, even without any lube.

if it is metal-on-metal, lube is however required, but a very, very light lube only. And a lot less than you would expect. For those I used a Slik 50 w/teflon spray. (the teflon is actually useless within oil.) But the reason I used it was that it was/is plastic safe and extremely lightweight (low viscosity). There are tons of model-train-specific lubes out there, LaBelle is a major name and they'll work fine. Again, less is best.
 
.. Truck Tuner's extra-sharp tool-steel cutter reshapes the bearing to the NMRA's recommended 60 degree contour and cleans out burrs and grime.
Ahhh, that's what I thought, there is a std.

..Decent modern trucks are made of delrin and other inherently slippery plastics and most decent wheels have highly pointed ends that reduce the contact area. once the metal axle and plastic have conformed to each other, lube is really not needed.
The Intermoutain wheelsets seem to have the most pointed?
 
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Boy, I can't wait until they start making trucks with accurate bearings and journals! Just imagine having to check every journal box, adding oil where needed, before you even get to run the train! That would add some much to realistic operation, including the occasional hotbox.:D

All in jest, of course.:)
 
Been a while since I've looked -- but do "they" still make powered Teflon? I got a tube once (many years ago), and I thought it worked great. Just curious...

Regards,
Tom Stockton
 
Ok...I'm still new to this....all my docs say "oil and lube" the engine, but they don't say anything about putting oil on the axels of the rolling stock. I question if its need to be if the trucks are plastic, but I did buy a couple of cars that have all metal trucks. Any thoughts on oil on both the plastic trucks and the metal trucks?

Thanks in advance!

-Lord Vokk
Lord no! It'll attract dust and dirt and make a gloppy mes, then you'll have a cleanup job on your hands. You shouldn't have to lube the plastic ones at all. On the metal ones you could a very, very small puff of graphite. Be careful. That stuff gets everywhere, If you put on too much it ends up on the rails and you have traction issues.
 
Been a while since I've looked -- but do "they" still make powered Teflon? I got a tube once (many years ago), and I thought it worked great. Just curious...

Regards,
Tom Stockton


sure, here's one place that sells it for piano maintenance.

I used it in floppy drive (8"!!) drive manufacturing, and obviously that was well over 20 years ago. My supply is still intact, one fair size package lasts a very long time!
 


8" floppy drives... boy, does that bring back memories! I think I still have a box of them somewhere down in the basement. Showed them to the kids once -- they couldn't believe them, then my oldest said something about "how many gigs will one of those hold?" LOL!!
 
You really should not have to do anything to your wheel sets at all unless you are having rolling resistance issues. I have only ever experienced this once on some Rapido passenger cars where the brake shoe details were physically rubbing on the wheel causing rolling resistance.

Plastic wheel sets tend to pickup dust bunnies over time and you may end up with a fur ball in the journal, but you can just pick that out. You are more likely to have a gauge issue on newer wheel sets today than a rolling resistance issue, especially with the newer metal sets. They tend to roll like and I quote Karl “a ball bearing on glass”.

I guess over time the metal points on the wheels could wear a deeper pit into truck than when it left the factory causing more rolling resistance, but I would think that would take allot of scale miles to achieve. I would rather replace the set at this point then risk oil dripping and staining my scenery.;)
 
I guess over time the metal points on the wheels could wear a deeper pit into truck than when it left the factory causing more rolling resistance, but I would think that would take allot of scale miles to achieve. I would rather replace the set at this point then risk oil dripping and staining my scenery.;)

I think you would also have to be hauling some really heavy loads for all those scale miles. I remember Tony Koester once mentioned having the points come through the axles but then he was running live loads in those big HO Scale Ortner 5 bay hoppers.
 




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