Scratch building a plate girder bridge (warning: lots of pics!)


Vince-RA

Well-Known Member
Per a previous thread I decided to take a crack at modeling a bridge near where I live. I guess first things first - I know I could have bought a kit off the shelf to do 98% of this, but I'm stubborn and wanted to improve my modeling skills (especially with styrene)...so, yeah ;) It's certainly not going to be rivet-counter accurate - in fact I decided to omit the rivets entirely, given how much work it will be even without them - but hopefully it will end up being a fair representation for inclusion in a diorama or layout one day.

The first thing I did was to make a crude model of just the main girders using posterboard and thick CA glue to see how the size worked, and whether or not it would be stable enough.

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I was pretty amazed at how sturdy it was, even with just a couple cross braces in the middle. I'm sure this is a testament to the wisdom of the I-beam design more than anything :)

I didn't do a good job taking pictures in the early part of the build, so this jumps ahead a little bit. I used 0.020" sheet styrene to cut the sides and tops for the girders. Then I added HO scale 2x6 pieces, with the thin side toward the girder, to simulate the ribs. The process of adding these was a total pain. I made a jig out of a piece of sheet styrene, adding some scale 6x6 timbers to each side to give the ribs something to "lean" against while I glued them in place. The spacing was a tiny bit off, so the distance between the last three ribs in the middle of the span is just a bit longer than the rest of them. Still, pretty darn close.

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Those little triangles on the end are the "feet" where the bridge attaches to the piers. Here's a closeup of the real thing:

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From the end-on view, you can see there are actually two per girder. The alignment on these is not great, but it will be improved when slotted into the "feet" on the concrete pier - and, it's going to be tough to see anyway ;)


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Here is a pic of the bottom part of the "feet". These each have three vertical pieces. Again, you can see the accuracy on these is not great at all - I find it really hard to get multiple small pieces of styrene to have exactly the same dimensions when they are irregular shapes like this.

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Here's what they look like with both part of the feet connected with 1/16" styrene rod. I used a standard 5/64" bit (by hand) to drill the holes, being as careful as I could to make them all line up. Fortunately the styrene rod has enough play in it that the small errors I made aren't a problem.

Note that for final installation, I'll glue everything together, then trim the rods to length for each foot. Until then, it's easier to keep everything on the same long piece of styrene.

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You can see from the pic above that I used a couple of scale I-beams as cross braces. I did this purely to improve stability - the actual prototype seems to use only 4x4 cross braces on top, bottom, and then diagonally. I opted to skip the braces on top, but did include those on the bottom:

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I made some basic piers (sorry, no pics from this stage, but there isn't much to them), and snapped a pic of the bridge plus all four feet sitting on the piers. I had originally planned to build the piers using foam core, but I had a really hard time getting cuts that were both clean and with 90 degree edges, so I got pissed off and just did them in styrene instead. Way more time-consuming, but hey, they're done now! :)

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Next up is building the concrete approaches to the bridge, but as I need to get some work done, I'll save that for another time :)

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Very cool! I've been thinking of tackling the same type of project. Have you looked at the Micro-Mark rivet decals?
 
I hadn't heard of those - will check them out, though, thanks!

I picked up one of those round river makers (this one) but decided I just couldn't deal with doing the rivets on this project. Maybe some other time :)
 
Ooh that is a really cool idea! Hmm may have to look into those. And man there is a lot of other neat stuff on the Micro Mark site - I'm not sure whether to thank you or curse you :p
 
Ooh that is a really cool idea! Hmm may have to look into those. And man there is a lot of other neat stuff on the Micro Mark site - I'm not sure whether to thank you or curse you :p
:)
The Micro Mark catalog is to modelers what the B&H catalog is to photographers. Just full of really cool toys.

The bridge looks very nice, and you're doing some beautiful work on it. I look forward to seeing future developments.
 
Thanks guys - had I realized what kind of undertaking this was I probably never would have started. But sometimes ignorance isn't necessarily a bad thing! I am certainly enjoying myself, though I feel pretty inept at times - the tolerances necessary for scale modeling are quite unforgiving. I haven't done much styrene beyond a couple silly shack models out of a magazine, so just about every day working on this teaches me new lessons. The possibilities with styrene are just about endless, so this is an exciting thing indeed!

On to the concrete sections that lead into the bridge! As best I can tell, these are ballasted on top, with a small "lip" at track level presumably to contain ballast. I estimated the entire topmost portion to be 8' wide in total, though had I thought harder I would have allowed for 8' ties as well as the concrete lip, as they seem to be standard width on the actual bridge, based on aerial photos. Oh well - not counting rivets, and not rebuilding these damn things! :)

I started with the top of the stack - these are grossly overbuilt (like most things I seem to build) but I figured if I were ever to include this on a layout, you wouldn't want any flex under the track. The highest scale 6x6s on the second photo are to assist in attaching the next level.

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Next came the sides - the bottom of the piers are smaller than the tops, so this part slants inward. I estimated a foot on each side. Another nice feature of styrene is that joints like this remain fairly flexible, so it wasn't necessary to get the angles right until I put the base on.

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Next I added an end plate. There is a considerable gap between the bridge itself and the concrete, as you can see in the last photo of my first post. By happy coincidence, this will also help to keep the whole thing from flexing side to side. These are the sorts of angles and cuts that give me fits, so it was a little sloppy. Fortunately I erred on the side of making the end cap too big, so it was easy to trim up.

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Before stacking more height on the assembly, I decided to make a base for this section to improve stability. I used scale 6x6s to brace the joints, and planning ahead, also applied the bracing on the other side.

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Whoops! Due to poor application of the Pythagorean theorem, I ended up with sides that were too long and a gap below the end plate.

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It was pretty easy to shave off a thin strip of scrap and plug it into place. A little sanding and painting and it should not be noticeable.

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I kept the very bottom simple, as it will most likely be embedded in some form of scenery. The red line below represents, roughly, the expected level of the earth/stone banks.

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Next, I added a small retaining wall on the other end - not quite as detailed as the prototype, but I wasn't willing to get too crazy with it. And finally, scale 6x6s on the sides to contain ballast. These will be painted as concrete rather than ties.

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And here's the whole shebang so far:



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Hard to say how long I've put into the build so far - I wouldn't be shocked if I was pushing 30 hours over the past 4 weeks, maybe even more. And I haven't even painted! :eek: The painting/weathering aspect will definitely be new to me as well. I suspect I'm really going to be wishing I had an airbrush. I'm planning to build a couple of small dummy sections just to practice on - I'd hate to do all this work modeling and then butcher it with the paint job.

I've also started thinking about track. I've got some bridge track on order, but part of me thinks it would be fun to do the track from scratch too. I've already gone a little crazy with this project, so why not go all the way with it? :)
 
Over 300 views and no one has any comments?? :confused:

You were right, a lot of pics. But, far better than watching some silly U Boob video. Far better than what I could ever do. :eek:
How did the thick CA work out? Did you try regular styrene cement?
 
I, for one, think it's fantastic! I would really like to see the end product and how it looks installed. Bet it's really nice.
 
Far better than what I could ever do.

Don't sell yourself short - I didn't have much experience building with styrene before this. It just takes a lot of time and patience, and a willingness to screw up over and over again (and learn from those mistakes!) :)

How did the thick CA work out? Did you try regular styrene cement?

I only used the CA to assemble the mockup out of posterboard. When I moved on to styrene, I used Faller Expert plastic cement - the squeeze bottle and tiny applicator tip makes it really easy to use. At some point I may try the more traditional styrene solvent applied with a tiny brush, but this seems like way more trouble than I'm willing to go through right now. The Faller stuff is pretty easy to make clean joints with, though I always try to apply it from a side that won't be seen if possible. Even if I apply too much and end up with a messy joint (which is often! :p), it pretty well disappears with paint.

Thanks for bumping this thread and reminding me that I need to dust this project off - I built a small section of girder to test paint techniques on, and got pretty decent results using rubber cement to get the peeling paint look on the prototype. My colors are still off, but once I get that figured out I'm planning to get her painted and installed in a small diorama.
 
:)
The Micro Mark catalog is to modelers what the B&H catalog is to photographers. Just full of really cool toys.

The bridge looks very nice, and you're doing some beautiful work on it. I look forward to seeing future developments.

Great, I have the B&H catalog. Now I have to get the Mico Mark:rolleyes:

Kevin
 
How fast drying is the Faller cement?

I'd say 15 seconds or so - enough time that you can definitely move things around a bit if they get out of whack. Sometimes I wish it'd set up faster, but mostly I think the relatively slow drying time is a helpful feature for me. They do make a "Super Expert" version that (if I remember correctly) dries in a couple seconds. I don't have enough confidence in my skills to go with that just yet! :)
 
I'm really impressed that you went so far as to build working copies of the expansion rockers on the piers. The whole thing looks awesome.
 



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