Running in trains/Breaking them in


I just bought a "new in box" On30 Climax, Jim:)

Funny how little snippets of info found in other places give clues to eventual outcomes. Seems like certain modeling directions are becoming set in concrete (well stucco at least).

Now, you run that little loco in properly, won't you.
 
Break in, wazzat?

Since I generally have to rip everything apart to install decoders, I do look around to make sure there is adequate (not excessive) lubricant, and I make sure there is no crap build up. From there, its straight into revenue service.

Now I know there are a few falling back in their chairs, smacking their foreheads and thinking " he's crazy!" :eek: Maybe so, but these are model trains, not Swiss watches! Delrin cast gears are not perfect, for that matter, neither are drivers on a lot of steamers except for brass. Bachmann, Bowser, Mantua, Rivi, all waddle like a duck at times. (last TRUE drivers, Penn Line lathe turned drivers). There is a lot of play and slop straight from the factory.
If a part is defective (P2K gears?) its gonna happen no matter what YOU do. So all I do is keep em clean and lube, and let them do the rest.

Oh, and lube? Dexron/Mercon trans fluid and light lithium grease. Just as effective, and a fraction of the cost of those so called " modeling lubricants"
65%20car%20train.JPG

My kind of break in, 65 cars (arrow shows caboose) for 2-3 hours. These Atlas unit have not so much as hiccups since hitting the rails!:D
 
GS.Thanks for directions. The initial squint reveals that a "couple of hours" running is adequate for Bachman locos. Of course those who choose to run their Bachmann geared steam may break a gear an be SOL anyway. So far my On30 T-boiler still works. My HO 3-truck Shay went tits up in less than twenty minutes! Jim:)

I'll take her off your hands of you don't want to fix it. :D The shay are easy to work on. I'll make it a two truck, already did that to one of my 3T's.
 
For breaking in locomotives, before I put them on my layout, I set up a 45x36" oval of Power-Loc track in my room and run just the locomotive on the track at medium speed in forward for ten minutes, then medium speed backwards for ten minutes.
 
I'll take her off your hands of you don't want to fix it. :D The shay are easy to work on. I'll make it a two truck, already did that to one of my 3T's.

I can't remember exactly when Roundhouse can out with their RTR series, but I bought a new RTR HO gauge 2-Truck Shay, and just put it on the shelf until I had a layout to run it on. Well, I finally got it out of the box, and the very first try to run the shay, and it would not run. It sounds as if the gears are not meshing. I was so frustrated I put it back in the box and back on the shelf. Any ideas? Has anyone else had similar experiences? - Chris
 
QUOTE: "My favourite is "grip the shell firmly". Which means in the case of most of the newer engines, you actually cause it to jam more tightly against the frame. "DoH!!"


And watch delicate parts dribble off the model too. :mad: Do this step holding the model over a 5 gallon bucket.
 
QUOTE: "My favourite is "grip the shell firmly". Which means in the case of most of the newer engines, you actually cause it to jam more tightly against the frame. "DoH!!"


And watch delicate parts dribble off the model too. :mad: Do this step holding the model over a 5 gallon bucket.

You need to do that just gettin' them out of their packet.
 
I can only remember three locos failing my old break in method. Two of them were Con-Cor N scale Pacifics with a weak motor and a kind of lousy drive train. Both of them got hot very quickly, and the motors soon failed after trying to pull a couple of passenger cars. The other was an Atlas "Sharknose". It had one powered truck and jerked over switches and other parts of the layout than other locos had zero issues with. Con-Cor sent me two "Improved" motors that seemed to be identical to the originals. They failed too, and the two went onto my "dead line" track for several years. I found a motor that fit the chassis almost perfectly later on, I just had to ream the gear out to fit the bigger shaft. Once it was done, they ran well, until I sold my whole collection to a neighbor. The Sharknose never ran right, but I solved it's pick up issues by permanently coupling it and a similar Atlas loco together and running small wires from one to another. They still were weak and the two of them couldn't do much than barely slow down my better pullers that ran the other direction. Between being weak and the buzzing noise they made, they were pretty worthless. Probably should have made them dummies.
 
Breaking in New Locos

I used almost every suggestion in this topic. However, one of my best running locos is a C&NW GP7 that I purchased new on Ebay and installed a DCC decoder. Its maiden trip was pulling 36 Walther's 26' ore cars, with loads, on a module layout for two or more hours. Great runner and operates very well at low speeds.

Other loco's I just run at a moderate speed on the layout while working at my work bench. Every once in awhile, I change direction or speed. These locos work great as well.

I guess just about any method will work, but at first run the loco at varied speeds to be sure there isn't any binding or strange noises.

I've found that the newer locos aren't loaded with grease as those even just several years ago and the lubs available today are improved and are not as "greasy" as older versions. I still remember the old "tooth paste" method of using tooth paste as an initial lub to wear in the plastic and metal gears.

Thanks.

Greg
 
Karl's Module Layout

Karl:

Thats a nice module layout that you posted showing your MU being run. Can you share any details about the layout, club and construction?

Thanks.

Greg
 
It makes a difference because the drive mechanisms and rods, if the item is a steamer, are not precision-bearing surfaces. When you reverse a drive-train in our scale models, different thrust vectors cause 'bunching', or slack to take place at various places which causes shaped geometries, or engineered surfaces, to alter their angles of interface and the friction that results. That changes the running characteristics. By running the item in both direction, you learn which way the drive train bucks or grabs, and you learn if you have to place spacers between the pillow block/transmission and the worm gear on the main shaft. Most of us learn that an engine that runs well in reverse does not necessarily run well moving forward. Breaking in a locomotive in both directions helps to settle the drivetrain in. Once the drive has some wear, faults that cause stumbling or lurching, but only in one direction, can be investigated and cured. Even so, a break-in after the cure might also be necessary.

And yes, cooling is important. When things cool, especially items that were running in tight tolerances because of friction, their shapes change, both in cross-section and in length. Allowing periodic cooling allows abraded materials to be drawn to one side, or shoved out of the way the next time the sliding/moving/rotating item is set in motion. This has the happy outcome of ridding the friction surfaces of unnecessary wear.

What you are describing is an out of quarter situation. Perhaps only a 1/2 degree or so. I have built dozens of Bowser engines and cobbled some variants together and even constructed the early Baker-Pilloid style gear for some of my N&W projects. I have a device called an "Auto-Quarter" which allows me to precisely re-quarter most steam drivers be they left leading or right leading. A correctly built valve gear in models with the slop where it doesn't matter won't exhibit the problems you outline. I built a late series H9 for use in a hobby shop window. every month it was turned to go the other way around the layout in the window. The first rivet failed after 17 months of daily use. It was cleaned and lubed about ever other month. it is still used on the owners switch track timesaver he has for the cub scouts.
 
With modern electronics, I am more concerned with the infant mortality of the decoders, circuit boards, lights, motors, etc, than anything else. As long as everything runs smoothly out of the box, I let an engine run for an hour or so in each direction, making sure everything still works like it should at the end of that time.
 



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