roofs

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Bread&steel

Bread&steel

Member
There are some REALLY GREAT weatherers here! I need your advice. I want my silvery roof to look like this. How can I do it ?

Larry

63018848_GOkONDni.png
 
That "silvery" looking roof is actually bare galvanized steel. Over the years, you get the rust pattern that you see in the photo. This is a great place to try different brown and rust colored chalks and practice getting the kinds of colors you see between the ribs. The galvanizing process isn't completely even on a sheet of steel that size so you'll see some of the flat panels are still pretty clean and some have a lot of rust. Just do so trials with different colors of chalk, using your finger of a Q-tip to smooth and blend the colors. If you don't like the effect, just wash off the chalks and start again. You'll get it it right but it will take a couple of false starts before you get it right.
 
UP2CSX said:
That "silvery" looking roof is actually bare galvanized steel. Over the years, you get the rust pattern that you see in the photo. This is a great place to try different brown and rust colored chalks and practice getting the kinds of colors you see between the ribs. The galvanizing process isn't completely even on a sheet of steel that size so you'll see some of the flat panels are still pretty clean and some have a lot of rust. Just do so trials with different colors of chalk, using your finger of a Q-tip to smooth and blend the colors. If you don't like the effect, just wash off the chalks and start again. You'll get it it right but it will take a couple of false starts before you get it right.
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Hi Jim I just bought these weathering compounds from Bragdon Enterprises in CA. They are suppose to be better then chalks. I've got to give it a go. Should I try to take down that silver color first ? Some alcohol spray perhapes?

Larry
 


Larry, leave the roof just as it came from the factory and then start weathering it. You want to duplicate how nature would do things and there will still be a few bright spots left even when the rest of the roof is rusted. The weather powders, blended and spread over the roof, will do what you want without having to do anything to the roof first.
 
Personally, I'd dull-coat the roof first. Powders and other weathering stick to a dull surface far better then a glossy one. And I'd give it a light wash of dark brown or black to highlight the rivets and other details.

I'd stipple rust on using a flat stiff brush and some gouache or water mixable oil paint. Acrylic artist paints work too.

For the heavier rust areas, try mixing some of your powders in with the paint to make a tick paste. Dab this on with a cosmetic sponge. It makes great layered, textured rust.

Be sure to dull-coat (enamel) between steps. You can wash the top layer of weathering off if you don't like it.

Have fun with it. I've heard many excellent weatherers say the roof is the hardest part to get right. Figures, that's the part modelers see most often!

If you want to see how some of the pros weather, check out www.modeltrainsweathered.com.
 
overdone? not at all, looks pretty good to me. Less is more, remember!

now you just need to get the sides to match the roof, age-wise. Again, study pics of real trains.
 
CP9302 said:
For the heavier rust areas, try mixing some of your powders in with the paint to make a tick paste. Dab this on with a cosmetic sponge. It makes great layered, textured rust.

Which color paint should I use ? I have burnt umber, burnt sienna and mars black

OH and thanks for the link ! WOW!
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kenw said:
overdone? not at all, looks pretty good to me. Less is more, remember!

now you just need to get the sides to match the roof, age-wise. Again, study pics of real trains.
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Thank you ! I need to find some pictures. Do you know any good sites ?
 


Darn Larry, first try? I'm far from the expertise of these guys but looks real good to me.

Fred, thanks for the link. Lots of good info there. ;)
 
Thanks Rex...yes I'm just getting into freight car weathering. I bought some compounds, Q-tips, stiff brushes and I was ready to go.....But then I thought, I'd better get a bit of help here. I've got lots of cars to age. I must keep in mind that I shouldn't over weather the cars built in the late 70s and the ones built in the 80s. I have much older cars that should be fun to weather because they should be in really bad shape. :D
 
Larry, that's a fabulous job. Just about right, not too heavy and not too light. I think you scored a home run on this one. :) As far as that thicker rust, I find that burnt umber with just a touch of sienna makes a pretty good match for rust and you can use the weathering pastes or even a little white glue to make it thicker and cling to vertical surfaces. Can't wait to see what you do with the rest of the car.
 
UP2CSX said:
As far as that thicker rust, I find that burnt umber with just a touch of sienna makes a pretty good match for rust and you can use the weathering pastes or even a little white glue to make it thicker and cling to vertical surfaces. Can't wait to see what you do with the rest of the car.
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Great Jim ! I'm going to try it. This stuff that my local ( 40 miles ) HS told me about is really good. Lots of colors ( 12 ) in a plastic case. It's from Bragdon Enterprises and it's $25

www.bragdonent.com

More pictures to come

Larry
 
The real thing

Well here is the real XM All 50 feet 7 inches of her. This photo was taken back in the 80s so it's not showing to much age. I'm modeling 1984 so I think this is just about right. Maybe just a bit more rust

AMR201078_Caliente20CA_Craig20Walke.png
 


?

I didn't want to age this too much because it's build date is 79. The picture of the real car was a big help. I could see where the heavy rust was forming and why. Well here it is. What do you think? Please be blunt.

Simpson004.png
 
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