Rolling Stock Road Grime (for underbody and wheel splash)

[TLOC]

Sharing some WIP. This is Tamiya Olive Drab with about 50% alcohol, which was probably a little too much as you can see a few small runs (the other side of the PS hopper is worse). It's perfect on the pink but might be a touch green on the gray.
View attachment 266472

As an aside, the Tamiya clear yet again found some finger prints... the 2nd of the 2 gray hoppers is definitely getting some patch panels. I'm so torn, the Tamiya goes on so nicely but is like a magnet for fingerprints. The Microlux is so much more tolerant but doesn't cover as evenly and occasionally decides to not adhere at all.

R u wearing gloves?

Was the surface clean before the fade coat?

If I don’t wear gloves I find I really have to wash my hands very well and they have to be dry. The oil from the finger tips always show up when I don’t wear gloves or in my case the glove on the left hand. I have never really been comfortable with alligator clips, stands or whatever. I feel better with it in my hand

If you are a warm bodied person EVEN with gloves the heat from your fingers maybe radiating to the model

If you get finger prints (u r not alone, we all get them occasionally) don’t strip try this:

Using low air pressure mist a very light, highly thinned coat of the base fade color (or a dead flat clear coat) directly over the fingerprint. If it's just a surface oil stain, the matte clear or a light dust coat will often bury the fingerprint and even out the sheen again. If it's a physical impression in the paint, you will need to lightly scuff it with a fine sanding stick and re-spray

IMOO, 50/50 ipa and Tamiya IMO is way too thick. Totally a personal preference though. I spray Tamiya XF thinned with IPA around 70/30, 80/20 but mostly 90% IPA to 10% Tamiya XF brand Iof Arcylics. Probably 2 issues. Spraying too close and at too high a pressure! When I spray washes I like my air brush around 4-6” away and I set the PSI around 15. But I’ve needed to set it higher or lower depending on the room humidity.

I offer these as suggestions and for your conditions I maybe completely off base but these were generally the solutions that worked for me. I have done everything you mentioned in this post, finger prints, streaking, spotting. Over the years these solutions have usually worked, for me! YMMV,

 

[moonlighting_racer]

R u wearing gloves?

Was the surface clean before the fade coat?

If I don’t wear gloves I find I really have to wash my hands very well and they have to be dry. The oil from the finger tips always show up when I don’t wear gloves or in my case the glove on the left hand. I have never really been comfortable with alligator clips, stands or whatever. I feel better with it in my hand

If you are a warm bodied person EVEN with gloves the heat from your fingers maybe radiating to the model

If you get finger prints (u r not alone, we all get them occasionally) don’t strip try this:

Using low air pressure mist a very light, highly thinned coat of the base fade color (or a dead flat clear coat) directly over the fingerprint. If it's just a surface oil stain, the matte clear or a light dust coat will often bury the fingerprint and even out the sheen again. If it's a physical impression in the paint, you will need to lightly scuff it with a fine sanding stick and re-spray

IMOO, 50/50 ipa and Tamiya IMO is way too thick. Totally a personal preference though. I spray Tamiya XF thinned with IPA around 70/30, 80/20 but mostly 90% IPA to 10% Tamiya XF brand Iof Arcylics. Probably 2 issues. Spraying too close and at too high a pressure! When I spray washes I like my air brush around 4-6” away and I set the PSI around 15. But I’ve needed to set it higher or lower depending on the room humidity.

I offer these as suggestions and for your conditions I maybe completely off base but these were generally the solutions that worked for me. I have done everything you mentioned in this post, finger prints, streaking, spotting. Over the years these solutions have usually worked, for me! YMMV,

Thanks for the tips! I've been so annoyed at it that I haven't touched it. I was thinking I'd strip the affected panels first and see how they look, and then potentially re-fade or more aggressively patch if its bad. They're too high on the body to naturally cover with graffiti. These cars were supposed to be pretty lightly weathered but I suppose 1 side of 1 car having some panel replacements isn't the end of the world.

I have very clammy hands so gloves are usually not an option. I wash the cars before I start, but I've really not had fingerprint issues until I started using X86 as a fade base.

Interesting on the dilution, I had thought this was already too thin since the line between a nice controllable spray and a fire hose was pretty thin. I was very close in since I was trying to get into some corners and crevices. My little pancake compressor is usually struggling for pressure and flow so I keep it maxed, but maybe I do need to turn it down some for Tamiya. I've been so used to needing it to be maxed out to have a prayer of spraying Vallejo reliably that I've sorta forgotten that I can adjust it.

Fairly happy with this car. I struggled to find prototype pics that weren't nearly new or very tired so its very improvised. Been trying hard to be gentle. Its not sealed yet so I may clean up the powder a bit more.

Nailed the kickup on this end. All powder.

It was suggested I panel line the hatches, and I think I'm going to do so next time I have it out. Was thinking the hinges should proabably be rusty too.

 

[TLOC]

Thanks for the tips! I've been so annoyed at it that I haven't touched it. I was thinking I'd strip the affected panels first and see how they look, and then potentially re-fade or more aggressively patch if its bad. They're too high on the body to naturally cover with graffiti. These cars were supposed to be pretty lightly weathered but I suppose 1 side of 1 car having some panel replacements isn't the end of the world.

I have very clammy hands so gloves are usually not an option. I wash the cars before I start, but I've really not had fingerprint issues until I started using X86 as a fade base.

Interesting on the dilution, I had thought this was already too thin since the line between a nice controllable spray and a fire hose was pretty thin. I was very close in since I was trying to get into some corners and crevices. My little pancake compressor is usually struggling for pressure and flow so I keep it maxed, but maybe I do need to turn it down some for Tamiya. I've been so used to needing it to be maxed out to have a prayer of spraying Vallejo reliably that I've sorta forgotten that I can adjust it.

Fairly happy with this car. I struggled to find prototype pics that weren't nearly new or very tired so its very improvised. Been trying hard to be gentle. Its not sealed yet so I may clean up the powder a bit more.
View attachment 267025

Nailed the kickup on this end. All powder.
View attachment 267026

It was suggested I panel line the hatches, and I think I'm going to do so next time I have it out. Was thinking the hinges should proabably be rusty too.
View attachment 267027

If you are adding rust, yes the hinges, locking pins and the standoffs supporting the walk ways. If you are leery of using the airbrush on the finger prints grab a soft small mop brush. Make sure your XF86 is well shaken (no bubbles though) and thinned 50/50 and just dab the finger prints