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Finally! After four months of on and off work, lost parts, reordered parts, broken parts, paint and repaint, these models are done.
The locomotives are P2K SD60's. The covered hopper is an Accurail that started life as a Data Only unit. Additions include a Nathan 5 chime horn, laser cut windows, and some brass hand rails where I had broken some.
Again, this paint job was designed by and used in cooperation with Zephyr.
Those engines are SA-WEEET! That is such a bold and beautiful paint job - excellent work.
Mark
Looking good, got anything else to paint?
Nice paint jobs and modeling on those engines and the covered hopper. I must admit that I'm from the old school and like the narrow nose EMD's better than the safety cab versions.
Looking good, got anything else to paint?
I've got 3 more data only covered hoppers on order. I've also got 5 undecorated that are going to be painted boxcar red and stenciled in an almost identical manner. They're loosely copied from the BNSF versions. I'll also be adding the reflective decals to the new brown cars.
In the long term (I'm tired of painting loco's for a while) I plan on 1 SD40-2 and 2 GP38-2's in the new Rock Island paint. I'm also planning one GP20 and one GP38AC in Farmrail/Grainbelt (farmrail.com) colors. These will probably be fall projects. I actually found 4 Farmrail diesel decal sets and I'm waiting for them to arrive to see what I have to work with.
At some point I also plan to build a small (four or so) fleet of leased covered hoppers and box cars in my own personal lease company markings.
Nice paint jobs and modeling on those engines and the covered hopper. I must admit that I'm from the old school and like the narrow nose EMD's better than the safety cab versions.
+1
I think the truest version of a diesel locomotive is a grimy SD40-2. Followed by the GP38. If I wasn't a RI fan I'd have a fleet to dirty DRG&W tunnel motors.
I was a little disappointed in how the clear film surrounding the black and white RI shield on the covered hopper didn't "vanish" as well as Microscale decals do. I don't know if this is a function of age or if Champs are just different.
I'll trim the sides a little better on the next run.
Nice work macjet! Glad to see the fleet growing and that you are starting with the freight cars.
I was thinking the same thing about the decals on the hoppers. I have never tried Champs before, so I may stay away from them.
Keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing more of your grain train!
Very impressive, great looking engines.
Nice work Macjet. Those SD60s are looking good.
As for the decal film on the hoppers showing up, did you gloss coat the hopper before decalling? Accurail's cars are flat to satin finish, so decal film shows up more. A good gloss coat before decalling will help the decal film 'disappear'.
Nice work Macjet. Those SD60s are looking good.
As for the decal film on the hoppers showing up, did you gloss coat the hopper before decalling? Accurail's cars are flat to satin finish, so decal film shows up more. A good gloss coat before decalling will help the decal film 'disappear'.
I did not know that. Gloss the whole car of just that one spot?
excellent Job! I model the Rock Island in 70's area and its nice to see the what if they were still around look. I like it and your work is very well done. Thanks for keeping the Rock Island alive!
I did not know that. Gloss the whole car of just that one spot?
I would gloss coat the whole car. Then you can decal it and use a dull coat or satin finish on the whole car to seal the decals and get rid of the gloss.
I would gloss coat the whole car. Then you can decal it and use a dull coat or satin finish on the whole car to seal the decals and get rid of the gloss.
Where were you four days ago?
I'll give that a shot on the next set. Thanks.
Where were you four days ago?
I'll give that a shot on the next set. Thanks.
I was right here, but you were too busy decaling to notice
You may be able to hide the film on that hopper still. Pick up some Future floor wax at your local hardware store. Its a water based floor polish that can be airbrushed. Lay the hopper flat on its side and spray it with a heavy coat of Future. Leave the hopper on its side until the Future is dry. One or two coats this way will help even the paint surface with the decal and hide the edges. Repeat for the other side of the car. When both sides are done and the Future is completely dry (at least 24 hours) hit it with dull coat. This doesn't always work completely, but it does help. Some well placed weathering can also hide that decal film.
PS. Future makes a great gloss coat for applying decals to, just make sure you let it dry completely before decaling.
Another thing to try, especially with the older, and thicker Champ decals, is to only use distilled water. If you're in an area with hard water, I've found that minute amounts of the minerals in the water dry with the film and really make it stand out. Fred's advice about the Future floor wax spray is good, as is the idea of gloss coating a model before decaling. Gloss coating also helps show up any small imperfections in the finish that you can correct before you start decaling. I've found the Krylon rattle cans of both gloss and matte coat work really well and are a cheap alternative to airbrushing if you're not making a real museum quality model.
Nice looking Engines . I'm sure the hopper will turn out fine with Fred's advise.
Two thumbs up. They look great!
excellent Job! I model the Rock Island in 70's area and its nice to see the what if they were still around look. I like it and your work is very well done. Thanks for keeping the Rock Island alive!
Thanks. Do you have any pics of what you have? I'm always curious to see another "Rock"er's stuff.
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
Gotta question for ya....
Are ya gonna have any slugs or yard switchers for this modern day MRR?
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