RETIRED GUY PROJECTS
- Thread starter Kusojiji
- Start date
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Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
MICROACE ED18 1 REMOTOR
I bought this used, but in A grade condition. Well, it runs great but then intermittently stops with high current draw. Cleaned the motor out and scraped the commutator slots, but still the same. Figured the motor is tired.
Anyway, while printing out the new coreless motor mount, decided to change the lightboards from incandescent to LED. I was shocked to find the bulbs, so this thing gotta be old.
Removed the diodes and installed a 2.2K resistor. Extended the LEDs to where they would shine under the light runners.
Tested good.
I bought this used, but in A grade condition. Well, it runs great but then intermittently stops with high current draw. Cleaned the motor out and scraped the commutator slots, but still the same. Figured the motor is tired.
Anyway, while printing out the new coreless motor mount, decided to change the lightboards from incandescent to LED. I was shocked to find the bulbs, so this thing gotta be old.
Removed the diodes and installed a 2.2K resistor. Extended the LEDs to where they would shine under the light runners.
Tested good.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Got the motor mount printed, cut some brass tubing that are 1mm ID, 1.5mm OD and moved the worm gears over to the coreless motor and checked for spacing.
Made sure that the motor ran freely and the worms did not rub the chassis in either direction.
While trying to place the body shell, it wouldn't fit. So I thought that the lights, which I had upside down, was the issue. So I unsoldered the LEDs and placed them on the opposite side of the board, not realizing that it had fit before as shown in the previous set of pics. So, I ended up redoing it anyway. Now the cap is on the inside.
Found that the new motor mount was interfering with the body. A little snipping here and there and it fit. I printed up some cab details and got the body on.
Now it runs smoothly, very low current and voltage as compared to before.
Made sure that the motor ran freely and the worms did not rub the chassis in either direction.
While trying to place the body shell, it wouldn't fit. So I thought that the lights, which I had upside down, was the issue. So I unsoldered the LEDs and placed them on the opposite side of the board, not realizing that it had fit before as shown in the previous set of pics. So, I ended up redoing it anyway. Now the cap is on the inside.
Found that the new motor mount was interfering with the body. A little snipping here and there and it fit. I printed up some cab details and got the body on.
Now it runs smoothly, very low current and voltage as compared to before.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
ARUNINE SNOW PLOW
Finally got started on this thing. Folding was easy. Used a metal ruler just to ensure the bend was clean. Body came together nicely and put some solder in the corners to solidify it.
The kit comes with bend templates for the front fascia and the roof.
Got the snow plow put together. Used a 5mm dowel to make the radius bend. Of course I got it backwards the first time. Luckily I was able to recover.
This thing definitely was not made for lights. The top of the shell cuts the light holes in half.
I tested it and as long as I get the fiber close, it still shines through, so I proceeded to create some runners for the fiber and the Kato light boards. The larger one has red leds. This took a few hours to figure out due to the limitations of the 3d printer.
It will sit in the shell like this with the big board on the roof side. Some black tape will seal the exposed board and fiber runners going to the reverse lights.
Coming together slowly. Kept the major subassemblies separated for now for paint.
Finally got started on this thing. Folding was easy. Used a metal ruler just to ensure the bend was clean. Body came together nicely and put some solder in the corners to solidify it.
The kit comes with bend templates for the front fascia and the roof.
Got the snow plow put together. Used a 5mm dowel to make the radius bend. Of course I got it backwards the first time. Luckily I was able to recover.
This thing definitely was not made for lights. The top of the shell cuts the light holes in half.
I tested it and as long as I get the fiber close, it still shines through, so I proceeded to create some runners for the fiber and the Kato light boards. The larger one has red leds. This took a few hours to figure out due to the limitations of the 3d printer.
It will sit in the shell like this with the big board on the roof side. Some black tape will seal the exposed board and fiber runners going to the reverse lights.
Coming together slowly. Kept the major subassemblies separated for now for paint.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Coming along nicely. I wonder if there are any Japanese steam locomotives available in H0 kit form. I really like the 2-6-0 C56 class.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
0 gauge is even better, because i'm slowly switching to that gauge.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
I saw this before, in fact i watched it more than once. That's a master at work.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
You notice how rough he is when he puts the undercarriage onto the body? I would have been going way slower than he did. That shows the confidence and how solid his model is. But his stuff costs about half the price of my car!
Amazing !!
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
My extra power bogies came in, so I started the traction tire removal. First step was to pull the new bogie apart to get the tires out. These bogies come with one traction tire and 3 clean ones.
Set my calipers to set the wheel spacing and got the bogie back together sans traction tire.
KUMOHA 40 no traction tires.
Completed all of these.
Part of the reason why I like to remove them is that they can be double headed without straining the drive train if one is faster than the other, and it makes wheel cleaning much easier. Put some cleaning fluid on the towel, power up the track, and put one bogie on the cleaning side and the other on the track.
Set my calipers to set the wheel spacing and got the bogie back together sans traction tire.
KUMOHA 40 no traction tires.
Completed all of these.
Part of the reason why I like to remove them is that they can be double headed without straining the drive train if one is faster than the other, and it makes wheel cleaning much easier. Put some cleaning fluid on the towel, power up the track, and put one bogie on the cleaning side and the other on the track.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I also received the Tomix knuckle couplers and replaced the square ones that these things come with. The Tomix couplers do not work with other brands, so some modification is needed.
Now, I can pull my Kato cars around with this Tomix loco.
Now, I can pull my Kato cars around with this Tomix loco.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Bought a power bogie to see how they worked. Same company as the snow plow tram. It has a wheelbase of 26mm and a wheel diameter of 10.5mm, so it is the perfect size to replace the Tenshodo drive unit in my small red shunter.
It's a fold up kit with screws. No soldering or glue required. Had to order a 1.4mm tap and once it came in, construction began.
It runs fine but has metal gears. Would have been nice to have had a nylon worm to quiet it down. Will see how it goes with a shell around it.
It's a fold up kit with screws. No soldering or glue required. Had to order a 1.4mm tap and once it came in, construction began.
It runs fine but has metal gears. Would have been nice to have had a nylon worm to quiet it down. Will see how it goes with a shell around it.
DeaconKC
Well-Known Member
If it's too noisy, send it to Deacon's Home for Noisy Trains!
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Well, took some clearancing of the floor pan, but it finally fit. It did raise the body up by about .5mm, but is fine with the couplers. The motor bogie does have suspension, so I compressed the suspension and then tightened down the motor to hopefully give it the correct clearance with the gears. It is a bit noisy, so hopefully it will wear in.
DeaconKC
Well-Known Member
Looks great! Who cares if it's a bit noisy.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
It drives me up the wall after a while. I got spoiled by Kato stuff a long time ago. My itty bitty tram is so bad that I don't run it at all and I am researching a replacement motor bogie, replacement gear or something. It does run very well, but sounds like a coffee grinder.
Before I buy a model, I normally check to see how it runs if someone posted a video. This guy was doing exactly what I needed, but he stopped over a year ago.
www.youtube.com
Before I buy a model, I normally check to see how it runs if someone posted a video. This guy was doing exactly what I needed, but he stopped over a year ago.
Circle-T Channel
鉄道模型(ほぼNゲージ)の走行動画やレイアウト製作動画、車両のメンテナンスや加工動画そして新製品車両の開封動画などをあげています。 まだまだ鉄道模型のことも動画編集のことも知らないことが多いですが徐々に上を目指していけたらなと思っております。
www.youtube.com
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