RETIRED GUY PROJECTS
- Thread starter Kusojiji
- Start date
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DeaconKC
Well-Known Member
Very clever! Please take pics so we can see how it works.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
You could probably solder in some pieces in critical spots. This folding stuff is probably going to be pretty flimsy after you put it together. Looking forward to your progress.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
EF57 TAIL LIGHT
Working my way through the rest of my stock, got this one done. I thought I could use the same shrouds as the EF56, but that one has a rounded front where as this one is angled like the EF15, so back to the drawing board. Genned up the shroud and the LED holder.
The LED holder provides positive placement so that the tail lights have the same intensity.
Gooped the LED holders to the frame so that the whole thing can still come out. Wiring was the same as the EF15, with 1K resistors.
Buttoned up the bottom with the shrouds and blue tacked the bottom of the front windows to prevent light leakage.
Got it all reassembled and tested awesome!
Working my way through the rest of my stock, got this one done. I thought I could use the same shrouds as the EF56, but that one has a rounded front where as this one is angled like the EF15, so back to the drawing board. Genned up the shroud and the LED holder.
The LED holder provides positive placement so that the tail lights have the same intensity.
Gooped the LED holders to the frame so that the whole thing can still come out. Wiring was the same as the EF15, with 1K resistors.
Buttoned up the bottom with the shrouds and blue tacked the bottom of the front windows to prevent light leakage.
Got it all reassembled and tested awesome!
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
ARUMODEL SNOW PLOW TRAM preps
First step while the parts are still on the sprues was to drill the holes for the headlamps and the roof handrails. Used a .5mm drill for the roof, which had little divots to mark the position.
And a .75mm bit for the lights. Yeah, a little bit cockeyed, but couldn't really see what I was doing and I didn't have a punch that small. Will be using fiber optic filament and printing up a holder for the light units and fibers.
Next up is washing with dawn and starting the assembly.
First step while the parts are still on the sprues was to drill the holes for the headlamps and the roof handrails. Used a .5mm drill for the roof, which had little divots to mark the position.
And a .75mm bit for the lights. Yeah, a little bit cockeyed, but couldn't really see what I was doing and I didn't have a punch that small. Will be using fiber optic filament and printing up a holder for the light units and fibers.
Next up is washing with dawn and starting the assembly.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
This is how I determine the curve on a loco to make a shroud. Search around and find cylindrical objects and hold them up to the curved piece. This one was close, but there was some space at the edges, so the roll was too small.
This one matched.
Then measure the diameter.
Then I get this when done.
This one matched.
Then measure the diameter.
Then I get this when done.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Just had to share that, since i am an admiror of Japanese trains. And i don't want this to disappear in Facebook rabbit hole: https://www.facebook.com/share/1C5o8cHRcZ/
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
EF56 TRACTION TIRE REMOVAL AND TAIL LAMPS
Finally got this one done, which was the first one I had started.
First was the removal of the traction tires. Ordered a spare power truck for the tires and got going. Put all the traction tires onto the spare truck so now it is all traction, no power pick up. Keeping it around for the spare parts.
Then continued onto the tail lights. Had to redesign the shroud as I had forgotten what I was planning to do earlier. Didn't make sense as I couldn't see how to run the wires, so I made them run out the bottom. Same plan otherwise as the EF57 with the LEDs, resistor, and LED holder. The slot is for the wires to run to the slot in the frame and then up to the other slot in the frame and to the board. Wires have to be bent so that they don't foul the truck from turning.
Shroud needed a slot since that black retainer holds the frames together and I ain't cuttin' that.
So, some blue tack between the cab and windows to prevent light bleed into the cab and everything gets buttoned up.
Runs and looks awesome!
What I read about the EF56, which came out after the EF57 (go figure), is that she had an onboard boiler for passenger service. I was wondering what this was on the roof.
Finally got this one done, which was the first one I had started.
First was the removal of the traction tires. Ordered a spare power truck for the tires and got going. Put all the traction tires onto the spare truck so now it is all traction, no power pick up. Keeping it around for the spare parts.
Then continued onto the tail lights. Had to redesign the shroud as I had forgotten what I was planning to do earlier. Didn't make sense as I couldn't see how to run the wires, so I made them run out the bottom. Same plan otherwise as the EF57 with the LEDs, resistor, and LED holder. The slot is for the wires to run to the slot in the frame and then up to the other slot in the frame and to the board. Wires have to be bent so that they don't foul the truck from turning.
Shroud needed a slot since that black retainer holds the frames together and I ain't cuttin' that.
So, some blue tack between the cab and windows to prevent light bleed into the cab and everything gets buttoned up.
Runs and looks awesome!
What I read about the EF56, which came out after the EF57 (go figure), is that she had an onboard boiler for passenger service. I was wondering what this was on the roof.
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Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Continuing on with the creation of the base plate, I take the diameter of the roll of tape, which was 44mm = 22mm radius. Draw the base plate size needed and the line in the center equal to 22mm (from the top edge).
Then make a circle with the highest resolution (sides) as possible. In this case, 120 sides was all I could do since this is relatively tiny.
Then start deleting all the extra stuff.
And then drag it up for some thickness.
And then start adding or subtracting whatever else is needed.
Then make a circle with the highest resolution (sides) as possible. In this case, 120 sides was all I could do since this is relatively tiny.
Then start deleting all the extra stuff.
And then drag it up for some thickness.
And then start adding or subtracting whatever else is needed.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I added the decals, lights and option parts to my new Tomix 72 73 class Ome Line commuter train. This is the Kumoha 73.
They use those rub on decals. I saw a video of the application and that made it so much easier. I used to cut each decal out, but the better way is to leave them all on the sheet so that you have something to grab onto and use as a guide.
The tiny ATS-B type decal.
Painted the seats while there.
Added the number and destination light boards and the destination marker on the end.
Tachikawa is a train station to the south west of Tokyo. Its the last major station on the way to Fussa, which is the stop for Yokota AFB. I used to take the train there to go to the Burger King on base back then. They also had a Mrs. Field's cookies but that went away a long time ago. There are more Burger Kings around now, so no need to go.
They use those rub on decals. I saw a video of the application and that made it so much easier. I used to cut each decal out, but the better way is to leave them all on the sheet so that you have something to grab onto and use as a guide.
The tiny ATS-B type decal.
Painted the seats while there.
Added the number and destination light boards and the destination marker on the end.
Tachikawa is a train station to the south west of Tokyo. Its the last major station on the way to Fussa, which is the stop for Yokota AFB. I used to take the train there to go to the Burger King on base back then. They also had a Mrs. Field's cookies but that went away a long time ago. There are more Burger Kings around now, so no need to go.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
BACHMANN RESTAURANT MINI BUFFET
I don't remember when I started this project. IT came with axle end pick ups but didn't pass through into the body, so I had to solder wires to it and get some holes going.
I had also bought some table lamps, so drilled some holes in the tables and got them all wired in. Also printed up some seat covers, menus and some display case stuff for the kitchen.
Big reason why I hit a snag was that the wheels were coated that prevented connectivity. While I was trying to program the function decoder, it really didn't do anything. JMRI made some BS config and when I hard wired the decoder to the rail, I ended up locking out the decoder. Then stoopid me, I did another decoder and locked it out as well. Nothing I tried would work, so I emailed Train-o-matic, who responded by sending me a programmer and worked with me to clear the issue. The programmer cleared the lock and got everything working again. Did I say that ToM is awesome?
So, got the decoder installled again and programmed. All works great and looks awesome! May have to reduce the intensity of the overhead a bit as it is much brighter than the first class coach I finished earlier. White interior doesn't help.
I don't remember when I started this project. IT came with axle end pick ups but didn't pass through into the body, so I had to solder wires to it and get some holes going.
I had also bought some table lamps, so drilled some holes in the tables and got them all wired in. Also printed up some seat covers, menus and some display case stuff for the kitchen.
Big reason why I hit a snag was that the wheels were coated that prevented connectivity. While I was trying to program the function decoder, it really didn't do anything. JMRI made some BS config and when I hard wired the decoder to the rail, I ended up locking out the decoder. Then stoopid me, I did another decoder and locked it out as well. Nothing I tried would work, so I emailed Train-o-matic, who responded by sending me a programmer and worked with me to clear the issue. The programmer cleared the lock and got everything working again. Did I say that ToM is awesome?
So, got the decoder installled again and programmed. All works great and looks awesome! May have to reduce the intensity of the overhead a bit as it is much brighter than the first class coach I finished earlier. White interior doesn't help.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Very nicely done interior on that coach.
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