Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
That and the shaking. I have to put my hands together so that they shake at the same rate! haha
RETIRED GUY PROJECTS
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Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
One thing about these n-scalers is that they have traction tires. Understand the need, but don't like them. So, I bought some extra trucks for my EF57 and EF58 and took the trucks apart and swapped the tractions out.
While doing this, I cleaned the wheels and axle cups and set the gauge. Also noticed that the cab was bare metal in the EF58, so I took care of that. Mixed blue, green and white to get close.
Ah, much better. If I squint hard enough, I can see it! haha
While doing this, I cleaned the wheels and axle cups and set the gauge. Also noticed that the cab was bare metal in the EF58, so I took care of that. Mixed blue, green and white to get close.
Ah, much better. If I squint hard enough, I can see it! haha
I find them to be pretty generic looking. Face detail in HO or N is going to be indistinguishable once the car is closed up, and even if you can see in such as with a dome, at layout distance, I don't see any real features. Just enough to give the general idea.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I bought the cab rear wall detail sticker before I received the EF81. Today was finally the day to install it.
This cab didn't have a clearly defined seat, so I didn't bother painting it.
While at it, I also swapped the trucks out to get rid of the traction tires. Hobby Center Kato offers these for sale, so they know...
I always put a dot on the fwd truck so that I know which way it should go. There is a tiny 1 and 2 on the side of the cab, but I need my bionic eye to work in order to see it.
This cab didn't have a clearly defined seat, so I didn't bother painting it.
While at it, I also swapped the trucks out to get rid of the traction tires. Hobby Center Kato offers these for sale, so they know...
I always put a dot on the fwd truck so that I know which way it should go. There is a tiny 1 and 2 on the side of the cab, but I need my bionic eye to work in order to see it.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
EF15 TAIL LIGHTS
These things do not come with working tail lights. I saw a video this morning where the guy installed some in his EF57, so I am trying it with my EF15. The space is much tighter than the EF57, which I already designed but did not photograph.
First step was to modify the tail light lense. It needed to be cut flush at the bottom to give me some room for the shroud.
Then I used a black magic marker to darken the bottom of the cab glazing to minimize bleed. I saw how that guy's cab was showing the bleed.
Drew up and printed a shroud to keep the light from showing out the bottom. This ain't no low rider.
Fits like a glove!
Had to order 402 red LEDs, which will be here tomorrow. I'll just solder them in reverse to the headlamp on this end of the loco and visa versa for the other end.
While here, I painted the seats. There isn't a cab wall sticker for this one.
These things do not come with working tail lights. I saw a video this morning where the guy installed some in his EF57, so I am trying it with my EF15. The space is much tighter than the EF57, which I already designed but did not photograph.
First step was to modify the tail light lense. It needed to be cut flush at the bottom to give me some room for the shroud.
Then I used a black magic marker to darken the bottom of the cab glazing to minimize bleed. I saw how that guy's cab was showing the bleed.
Drew up and printed a shroud to keep the light from showing out the bottom. This ain't no low rider.
Fits like a glove!
Had to order 402 red LEDs, which will be here tomorrow. I'll just solder them in reverse to the headlamp on this end of the loco and visa versa for the other end.
While here, I painted the seats. There isn't a cab wall sticker for this one.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I've been wanting to put lights on this thing but couldn't figure out how to get the body weight out. Well, I found out this morning and started working on it. I forgot to take pics of the progress, so the synopsis is I drilled a .5mm hole in the headlamp and body for the wires. Drilled the front of the headlamp to 1.5mm to fit the 402 warm white LED (looks bright white).
Soldered the wires to work in opposite directions and added a 2K resistor. There was room above the chassis weight for the resistor.
Squeezed everything together and got it running.
This is about the size of a 9V battery but it can pull a lot.
Got a lot done today. Maybe I should wake up a 0400 more often... nah!
Soldered the wires to work in opposite directions and added a 2K resistor. There was room above the chassis weight for the resistor.
Squeezed everything together and got it running.
This is about the size of a 9V battery but it can pull a lot.
Got a lot done today. Maybe I should wake up a 0400 more often... nah!
DeaconKC
Well-Known Member
Who makes this locomotive? I am in awe of your work.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Thanks! EFE Rail which is owned by Bachmann UK. Here's where I bought it from.
Multiply the cost by 1.08 since the listed cost includes VAT (17% off) and exchange rate of 1.3-ish.
Cr@p, I shouldn't have looked. They're back on sale for cheap again...
Multiply the cost by 1.08 since the listed cost includes VAT (17% off) and exchange rate of 1.3-ish.
Cr@p, I shouldn't have looked. They're back on sale for cheap again...
DeaconKC
Well-Known Member
O
Oh, those are delightful! I gotta quit watching Father Brown and Midsomer Murders, every time I see one of their little steam engines I want to build a TTrak module with an English town and station. What do you think shipping would be on one of those little beasts?
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
If you do get one from Kernow, tell them to pre-test the model. Sometimes they don't run for cr@p. I went through 4 and finally got this one and still had to do some surgery to get it to run without cutting out all the time. Now it runs perfectly. I can show what I had to do.
Oh yeah, if you have a need to get rid of all arnold couplers, you'll probably want to get a pack of these as well.
They have that weird nem pocket. It ends up drooping, so I had to put in a wedge to get it to the correct height.
Oh yeah, if you have a need to get rid of all arnold couplers, you'll probably want to get a pack of these as well.
2A-000-010 Dapol Magnetic Coupling Short Arm - 1 Pair
2A-000-010 Dapol Magnetic Coupling Short Arm - 1 Pair
www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com
They have that weird nem pocket. It ends up drooping, so I had to put in a wedge to get it to the correct height.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
ED19 TAIL LIGHT
So, this was my last project for tail lights, but it ended up being my first to finish. It has two separate lightboards that have a nice handy soldering pad for the red led.
I used a 402 red led and soldered them reverse bias to the white led.
Then got it installed onto the chassis. Had to add the blue tape since the frame is split and I was getting the low rider effect.
Tested fwd and rev. Works awesome! I did blacken the bottom of the front window glazing, but may add something physical to block the light as there is a tiny bit of bleed.
And while there, I drew up a backwall detail and glued it in. I found some videos of the cab and took some screen shots for reference. Close enough.
So, this was my last project for tail lights, but it ended up being my first to finish. It has two separate lightboards that have a nice handy soldering pad for the red led.
I used a 402 red led and soldered them reverse bias to the white led.
Then got it installed onto the chassis. Had to add the blue tape since the frame is split and I was getting the low rider effect.
Tested fwd and rev. Works awesome! I did blacken the bottom of the front window glazing, but may add something physical to block the light as there is a tiny bit of bleed.
And while there, I drew up a backwall detail and glued it in. I found some videos of the cab and took some screen shots for reference. Close enough.
DeaconKC
Well-Known Member
Thanks, what makers of British Steam are the least trouble?
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
So far, I have had good luck with Graham Farish, another Bachmann UK owned brand. I have a 67XX Pannier Tank. This guy runs around 109 GBP. But it ran great out of the box. It has a 6 pin socket for DCC, but the space is very tight.
I have a Dapol Pannier, but had to do a coreless motor transplant. It runs very nicely now, and luckily, at the same speed as the GRAFAR above.
I have a Dapol Pannier, but had to do a coreless motor transplant. It runs very nicely now, and luckily, at the same speed as the GRAFAR above.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Started on the EF15 tail lamp install. I printed up some LED holders that would fit in that tiny space and positively place the 402 LEDs. Gooped them all into place.
Ran some quick tests.
Then traced out the runs on the lightboard and cleaned and tinned the locations.
After soldering the LEDs on, found that the headlight would not light up, only the red ones. So it seems the 402 LEDs have lower impedance than the headlamps. So I experimented with a 470 ohm resistor and it worked. Now deciding if I want to go with these, which will fit, or go with some 560 ohm 805 SMD resistors, which I have.
Funny how the ED19 didn't have this issue.
Ran some quick tests.
Then traced out the runs on the lightboard and cleaned and tinned the locations.
After soldering the LEDs on, found that the headlight would not light up, only the red ones. So it seems the 402 LEDs have lower impedance than the headlamps. So I experimented with a 470 ohm resistor and it worked. Now deciding if I want to go with these, which will fit, or go with some 560 ohm 805 SMD resistors, which I have.
Funny how the ED19 didn't have this issue.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Decided to go with a 1K 1206 SMD resistor instead. Did a test with a 1K axial and it worked great, attenuating the red LEDs more so that they don't over power. The 1206 is big enough to handle as my eyes are about fried.
Everything fit back into the body and the shrouds fit to keep the light from bleeding out below. I also put the tacky stuff below the windows to keep that in check.
Put everthing back together and she runs perfectly.
This one was a brain and eyeball fryer. The EF56 and EF57 should go easier. I hope...
Everything fit back into the body and the shrouds fit to keep the light from bleeding out below. I also put the tacky stuff below the windows to keep that in check.
Put everthing back together and she runs perfectly.
This one was a brain and eyeball fryer. The EF56 and EF57 should go easier. I hope...
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
ARUMODEL SNOW PLOW TRAM
I wanted to try to build a brass model so I started with this. At around $20, no major loss if I hose it up.
It rides on a Kato 11-107 motor chassis with an adapter as the cover of the motor chassis needs to be removed.
Started on the motor chassis. Instructions are poor at best and I had my phone translate it.
So of course I mess it up. Luckily it comes with enough material to make two. I was supposed to remove the template after the initial 1mm hole was drilled and then drill the chassis out to 1.5. The template is then used to hold the contacts down and uses a 1.4 self tapping screw. At 1.5mm, nothing to grab onto, so I had to use the left over template.
Once I had it all together, it wouldn't run, so I surmised that I needed to insert the wedges that the kit came with. I guess they had this issue as well.
Now it runs like it did before I started. I also soldered on the wires for my lights that I have to install later. I believe the motor leads are limited to 3vdc, so my leds should not require resistors.
If the wedge requirement is a common problem, I'm going to be pissed as I have thrown away several of these motor chassis' before as they wouldn't run. I even replaced the zener diodes on the board to no avail.
I wanted to try to build a brass model so I started with this. At around $20, no major loss if I hose it up.
It rides on a Kato 11-107 motor chassis with an adapter as the cover of the motor chassis needs to be removed.
Started on the motor chassis. Instructions are poor at best and I had my phone translate it.
So of course I mess it up. Luckily it comes with enough material to make two. I was supposed to remove the template after the initial 1mm hole was drilled and then drill the chassis out to 1.5. The template is then used to hold the contacts down and uses a 1.4 self tapping screw. At 1.5mm, nothing to grab onto, so I had to use the left over template.
Once I had it all together, it wouldn't run, so I surmised that I needed to insert the wedges that the kit came with. I guess they had this issue as well.
Now it runs like it did before I started. I also soldered on the wires for my lights that I have to install later. I believe the motor leads are limited to 3vdc, so my leds should not require resistors.
If the wedge requirement is a common problem, I'm going to be pissed as I have thrown away several of these motor chassis' before as they wouldn't run. I even replaced the zener diodes on the board to no avail.
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