RETIRED GUY PROJECTS
- Thread starter Kusojiji
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Yesterday I was assembling a water well kit and after finishing decided to check out the Allegra while at the bench. I got the Lokprogrammer hooked up and it did not recognize any of the decoders I had for it. I also tried out a Zimo decoder while on the main, but it didn't do anything with that decoder either.
I put the blanking plate in and tried to run it on a test track with 6VDC. Didn't budge. No lights, no motor sound, and no movement. If shipping wasn't so outrageously expensive I'd ship it back to Germany for service. Maybe after the first of the year I'll send it back. It is an impressive model even sitting still, but for what it cost I'd rather have it running.
I knew those decoders were bad before I even started futzing with it, because I had installed them in another locomotive with the same Next18 header and they didn't respond in that locomotive either.
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Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
TOMIX KE65 REMOTOR
These came as a pair. I took a risk as I'm not really familiar with Tomix. I have a diesel rail car that runs decently, so I figured why not.
Well, they run like crap. Noisier than hell. I should have done my homework first as I found this video later.
This guy demonstrates all the different motors that the DE10 (KE65) came with. The last one is his coreless motor install, sos I went with this since I have a few of the motors that he outlined in his blog.
So I designed and printed out an adapter. It took 4 tries to get it right.
The M-13 motor is about 12 x 10 x 15mm, so I used a 1015 coreless. Had to cut the axles a tiny bit on both ends and used 1 x 1.5 x 4mm brass tube to get the flywheel and u-joint onto the coreless motor.
Once all that was situated, started putting everything back together.
Wow, what a big difference. Getting ready to do the other one now.
These came as a pair. I took a risk as I'm not really familiar with Tomix. I have a diesel rail car that runs decently, so I figured why not.
Well, they run like crap. Noisier than hell. I should have done my homework first as I found this video later.
This guy demonstrates all the different motors that the DE10 (KE65) came with. The last one is his coreless motor install, sos I went with this since I have a few of the motors that he outlined in his blog.
So I designed and printed out an adapter. It took 4 tries to get it right.
The M-13 motor is about 12 x 10 x 15mm, so I used a 1015 coreless. Had to cut the axles a tiny bit on both ends and used 1 x 1.5 x 4mm brass tube to get the flywheel and u-joint onto the coreless motor.
Once all that was situated, started putting everything back together.
Wow, what a big difference. Getting ready to do the other one now.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
So, remember when I said that I get the 50% chance 100% wrong all the time? Well, I started the 2nd loco. I put one on the shelf and started the other. After I get the trucks and all the body panels off, I find that it was the one that I had already completed, of course. I had to sit down, do some brainless u-tube watching, and then start again. Both are now done. Geez.
RhB Michael
RhB Lokführer
Yesterday I was assembling a water well kit and after finishing decided to check out the Allegra while at the bench. I got the Lokprogrammer hooked up and it did not recognize any of the decoders I had for it. I also tried out a Zimo decoder while on the main, but it didn't do anything with that decoder either.
I put the blanking plate in and tried to run it on a test track with 6VDC. Didn't budge. No lights, no motor sound, and no movement. If shipping wasn't so outrageously expensive I'd ship it back to Germany for service. Maybe after the first of the year I'll send it back. It is an impressive model even sitting still, but for what it cost I'd rather have it running.
I knew those decoders were bad before I even started futzing with it, because I had installed them in another locomotive with the same Next18 header and they didn't respond in that locomotive either.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
KATO N SCALE OLD TIME PASSENGER CAR
I really like the old timer cars with the clerestory roofs.
These, however, did not come with the option for car lighting, which is strange for Kato. They normally come with trucks the pick up power and brass strips under the body. Did some searching around and found the strips at the Kato website and the power pick up trucks from another vender.
The trucks that these came with have the provisioning for the axle end pick ups.
I used the slots to mark the undercarriage. Used a .5mm drill bit and scribed the arc. Used a 1.5mm drill bit and cut holes on the arc line and cut out the rest with an xacto.
Next task was to cut slots in the floorboard to get the brass shoes through. I used a .5mm drill bit, eyeballed where I needed the slots and drilled 3 holes. Used an xacto to connect the dots.
What's left is to figure out the car weight. Kato has a split weight and the brass shoes sit on that to get the power into the seating area. The existing weight is too long and 10mm wide. I may shorten it and cut it in half.
Also still waiting for the power pick up trucks to arrive, so I have time. All four cars are at this stage in construction.
I really like the old timer cars with the clerestory roofs.
These, however, did not come with the option for car lighting, which is strange for Kato. They normally come with trucks the pick up power and brass strips under the body. Did some searching around and found the strips at the Kato website and the power pick up trucks from another vender.
The trucks that these came with have the provisioning for the axle end pick ups.
I used the slots to mark the undercarriage. Used a .5mm drill bit and scribed the arc. Used a 1.5mm drill bit and cut holes on the arc line and cut out the rest with an xacto.
Next task was to cut slots in the floorboard to get the brass shoes through. I used a .5mm drill bit, eyeballed where I needed the slots and drilled 3 holes. Used an xacto to connect the dots.
What's left is to figure out the car weight. Kato has a split weight and the brass shoes sit on that to get the power into the seating area. The existing weight is too long and 10mm wide. I may shorten it and cut it in half.
Also still waiting for the power pick up trucks to arrive, so I have time. All four cars are at this stage in construction.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
COSMIC DEWA10 KIT
I wanted a body to fit on the Kato 11-109 motor chassis instead of me 3d printing all the time. I found this kit from COSMIC of an old style wooden tram.
Its paper, plastic and wood. The roof came with guides as you have to cut and sand it to the correct shape. Well, me and wood don't get along, so I 3d printed a roof.
Since it is mostly paper, PVA glue worked great and the body came together quickly.
They used thick plastic to help square and hold everything together.
Did a test fit on the motor chassis and everything is nice and tight.
The end pieces needed to be formed and it just happened to match my metal weights, so I rubber banded them to the weight and used the water vapor from my humidifier to soften it up.
Then glued to the shell.
Had a bunch of detail parts to glue on.
The roof stuff had a lot of tiny parts. Managed to get them on and luckily, it all fit on my 3d printed roof.
Now need to paint the shell and roof when the weather gets better.
I am on the fence on getting lighting going. That circle in the front is where a round plastic piece is supposed to be, which is a dummy light.
I wanted a body to fit on the Kato 11-109 motor chassis instead of me 3d printing all the time. I found this kit from COSMIC of an old style wooden tram.
Its paper, plastic and wood. The roof came with guides as you have to cut and sand it to the correct shape. Well, me and wood don't get along, so I 3d printed a roof.
Since it is mostly paper, PVA glue worked great and the body came together quickly.
They used thick plastic to help square and hold everything together.
Did a test fit on the motor chassis and everything is nice and tight.
The end pieces needed to be formed and it just happened to match my metal weights, so I rubber banded them to the weight and used the water vapor from my humidifier to soften it up.
Then glued to the shell.
Had a bunch of detail parts to glue on.
The roof stuff had a lot of tiny parts. Managed to get them on and luckily, it all fit on my 3d printed roof.
Now need to paint the shell and roof when the weather gets better.
I am on the fence on getting lighting going. That circle in the front is where a round plastic piece is supposed to be, which is a dummy light.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
KATO N SCALE OLD TIME PASSENGER CAR COMPLETE
The power pick up bogies came in and they fit perfectly. I decided to emulate the way Kato does their pickup by having a split frame type system. So I had to make some 45 x 6 x .8mm plates to hold down the brass pickups. Used a hacksaw and got to work. Also printed up some separater/retainers to keep the metal pieces apart and to keep them from moving.
Glued the pick up shoes into the floorboard to help keep them in place when assembling the two halves.
Glued the light strips into the roof and shaped the brass to touch the brass shoes in the body.
Once assembled, did a test.
Completed all four and have them running around the room behind my C11.
The power pick up bogies came in and they fit perfectly. I decided to emulate the way Kato does their pickup by having a split frame type system. So I had to make some 45 x 6 x .8mm plates to hold down the brass pickups. Used a hacksaw and got to work. Also printed up some separater/retainers to keep the metal pieces apart and to keep them from moving.
Glued the pick up shoes into the floorboard to help keep them in place when assembling the two halves.
Glued the light strips into the roof and shaped the brass to touch the brass shoes in the body.
Once assembled, did a test.
Completed all four and have them running around the room behind my C11.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
COSMIC DEWA10 KIT cont
I ended up punching a hole in my printed roof and installed headlamps for a D51 steam loco that Kato sells as spares.
Since the roof had already been completed, I couldn't put a channel in for the fiber, so I went down instead of up. Printed up a light holder with a channel and cut the channel in the paper ceiling. The light circuit is also a Kato spare that is bidirectional.
Once that was all figured out, I installed the light board onto the motor chassis.
Just need to get a pantograph and a few small pieces and it'll be done.
Quick test run.
I ended up punching a hole in my printed roof and installed headlamps for a D51 steam loco that Kato sells as spares.
Since the roof had already been completed, I couldn't put a channel in for the fiber, so I went down instead of up. Printed up a light holder with a channel and cut the channel in the paper ceiling. The light circuit is also a Kato spare that is bidirectional.
Once that was all figured out, I installed the light board onto the motor chassis.
Just need to get a pantograph and a few small pieces and it'll be done.
Quick test run.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
HORNBY J36 LIGHTS
In prep for DCC, I had to add lights to both ends. I was also thinking of adding firebox flicker, but that may in the future as I found out that there may be room.
This has an 8 pin socket in the tender that has solder pads to add wires for HL, TL, AUX1, VCC. The cap is required in UK for TV noise suppression. I guess a lot of folks still have rabbit ears. I chopped it off.
I plan on using a Train-o-matic Next18 decoder, so I made the harness to adapt it to the 8 pin socket. I had an extra 8 pin plug.
Then it was scoping the body cavity out. There's room in the body shell since the motor is small. There is a small gap between the gearbox and the firebox head, so I may try a firebox flicker later.
Had to drill holes in the body and tender for the wires. The body is made of metal, so it took some time. Glued the headlights to the lamp brackets with goop. Yeah, the grab iron on the tender is hosed. Hornby's packaging has a foam piece right on top of it, so they all get broken. May replace later.
In prep for DCC, I had to add lights to both ends. I was also thinking of adding firebox flicker, but that may in the future as I found out that there may be room.
This has an 8 pin socket in the tender that has solder pads to add wires for HL, TL, AUX1, VCC. The cap is required in UK for TV noise suppression. I guess a lot of folks still have rabbit ears. I chopped it off.
I plan on using a Train-o-matic Next18 decoder, so I made the harness to adapt it to the 8 pin socket. I had an extra 8 pin plug.
Then it was scoping the body cavity out. There's room in the body shell since the motor is small. There is a small gap between the gearbox and the firebox head, so I may try a firebox flicker later.
Had to drill holes in the body and tender for the wires. The body is made of metal, so it took some time. Glued the headlights to the lamp brackets with goop. Yeah, the grab iron on the tender is hosed. Hornby's packaging has a foam piece right on top of it, so they all get broken. May replace later.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
HORNBY J36 LIGHTS (CONT)
The wiring between the loco and tender was difficult since there was no path for the wires to pass out of the loco. Since this thing has a lot of metal in the path, I ended up just going through the cab. I used a 1.25mod connector and crimped the wires. I used black to try to hide them.
Used 1K resistors to protect the LEDs and got it all soldered in (forgot to get a pic). I put the DCC blanking plug back in for now.
The wiring between the loco and tender was difficult since there was no path for the wires to pass out of the loco. Since this thing has a lot of metal in the path, I ended up just going through the cab. I used a 1.25mod connector and crimped the wires. I used black to try to hide them.
Used 1K resistors to protect the LEDs and got it all soldered in (forgot to get a pic). I put the DCC blanking plug back in for now.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Yeah, I a kit diesel that I have started as well. Cheap, plastic model, but wanted to see what I can do with it. I already printed out the lamp brackets.
That Kato use the brass strips like the N scale stuff? So you went backwards from LED to bulb! Nice! No flickering and that nice warm color.
That Kato use the brass strips like the N scale stuff? So you went backwards from LED to bulb! Nice! No flickering and that nice warm color.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
PLUM DIESEL SWITCHER KIT
I had this in my favs list on the jungle site for a while. I watched it go up in price and then down lower than it had been, so I pulled the plug.
It is a static kit, but has the option for a motor bogie. In fact, the floor plate is designed for it.
Of course, I have to put lights in, so I drilled out the headlights to 1.2mm and designed a light holder that will keep the 1.2mm fibers that I have.
I also designed a cab interior. I saw a video of a prototype and the control stand runs longitudinal to the body and the driver on the left side. A simple design, but something other than an empty hole.
Waiting on my order of paint to get this going further. More to follow.
I had this in my favs list on the jungle site for a while. I watched it go up in price and then down lower than it had been, so I pulled the plug.
It is a static kit, but has the option for a motor bogie. In fact, the floor plate is designed for it.
Of course, I have to put lights in, so I drilled out the headlights to 1.2mm and designed a light holder that will keep the 1.2mm fibers that I have.
I also designed a cab interior. I saw a video of a prototype and the control stand runs longitudinal to the body and the driver on the left side. A simple design, but something other than an empty hole.
Waiting on my order of paint to get this going further. More to follow.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I finally found what this is. It is a 20 ton made by Kyosan Kogyo. It doesn't have a nice, easy name like NW2, DB25, etc.
I also found that I had assembled the cab incorrectly. The doors go to the rear of the cab vice the front like I had it. Glad I had not glued it all together yet.
I also found that I had assembled the cab incorrectly. The doors go to the rear of the cab vice the front like I had it. Glad I had not glued it all together yet.
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