RETIRED GUY PROJECTS

[Kusojiji]

Well, throwing in the towel on the RDC. I took the motor out, cleaned it all out, cleaned the armature, degreased and regreased. Again, ran fine for about 15 minutes and the noise came back. I can't have this thing requiring regreasing every hour or so and slinging it all over my track. So, I wrote a message to the seller asking for return. Hopefully he's good for it.

The money is not the issue as it was cheap. I don't have the space to keep this and don't want to be reminded of it. I did check his fleabay page to see if he had anything else I wanted, but nothing at this time.

And I had printed out this driver's seat for it... Oh well. I tried.

After this ordeal, I did find that the RDC really has a long wheelbase. I saw that the Rapido model also requires over 18" radius curves like this one. So, I think I won't pursue an RDC anymore.

 

[Kusojiji]

Rapido Lion KD

It looks like Rapido's and KD's interpretation of NEM 363 are not the same. The KD 53 is way smaller.

So I took one of their adapters, cut the shank off and started filing.

Fits like a glove!

 

[Kusojiji]

P1K RDC Progress

I was going to replace the drive shaft with a Kato style hex on the motor end and dogbone on the worm side. With that short of a distance, the hex wouldn't be able to make that kind of angle, so I decided to try to change the angle of the existing dogbone at the motor side. I managed to pull the flywheel away from the motor and pushed the ujoint cup into the worm gear, changing the aspect. Well, it worked. I ran it for a few hours in both directions and turned it around and did the same. Finally!

So, moved fwd with the interior stuff and installed the COB LED. I was surprised to see that it wasn't as bright as I had tested earlier. I actually reduced the resistor from the 4.7K from the LED strip to a 2.2K for the COB strip.

I also removed all the diodes and that one resistor from the PCB and traced out the runs for jumpers needed to get power to the motor. I should be able to use the runs for the head/tail lamps.

MTF

 

[Kusojiji]

And, the noise is back. I managed to tune it out mostly so now it is only when I run backwards at very slow speed. It'll have to do.

Anyway, got the headlights and cabin lights in. All have stay alives to keep the flickering down. The headlights run through long runners, which lights up the driver's cabin, which is cool.

I just noticed that you can see the white light through the tail light holes that I drilled. Those lights are in the works. It'll be fiber runs, probably in a 3D printed mount for stability and no bleed.

 

[Kusojiji]

Started working on the interior. Royal blue is all I had so good 'nuff.

Tried fitting some 1/87 scale folks and it looks like they'll all be hobbling around on stumps. They'll get surgery when the paint is dry. At least the driver will remain intact.

 

[Kusojiji]

TANGO NO UMI interior

Yep, just had to get some contrast going, so I painted the seat headrests blue.

Doesn't really do much, but it's a little bit better. I think they missed a grand opportunity as they did other models with great interior details, such as the A-train.

 

[Kusojiji]

Paint on the RDC2 seats dried. I put it on the outlet of my air cleaner...

Anyway, got some folks fitted and gooped in. Waiting for this to set.

Wish I had the old couple like I had earlier. The set I bought only had one couple.

 

[Kusojiji]

Got it all together to see how it looks.

Next up is to finish up the tail lights. Was going to DCC this thing, but have decided against it.

 

[Kusojiji]

P1K RDC tail lights going in.

Added a 2.2K resistor to the red 3mm led and cut the fibers to length. The LED retainer is about 7mm thick, so one end will go where the drive shaft is and the other end will go in the dome.

Inserted the fiber after burning the lense end to round it out.

Test light. Not sure yet if I need to pain the fibers black to ensure there is no bleed. Probably going to do it anyway, after the stupor glue sets.

 

[Kusojiji]

Got it all together and am now running on the rails. Found an unexpected issue with the tail lamps coming on dimly in the wrong direction. My initial thought was headlamp causing bleed, but the fiber is clear and not red.

That'll be a tomorrow project.

Ah, just noticed that the tail lights are no longer on while going fwd. Since I have the stay alive circuit, I had to connect the tail lights to the opposite side circuit, so the F side powers the rear tail light and vice versa. Must be the cap charging. No fix for that.

 

[Kusojiji]

PLUM TOROKKO KIT

Cheap (not really) plastic kit with plastic wheels. Had to get it!

Of course, I have to install lighting. I also want to use this as a powered tender for some of my 0-4-0 or small diesels as they deal with power pick up issues. Not quite sure how I'm going to connect them yet. Dual magnetic coupling would be nice, but I haven't developed that yet.

I bought Tenshodo wheel set that come with axle end bearings.

So I drilled out the plastic bearing cups to install the bearings. Since the bearings are stepped, it makes for a nice stop to keep the bearings from going all the way through. I soldered wires to the end of the bearings, which makes it look like bearing oilers.

Then punched holes in the frame and chassis for the wires.

The rectifier and resistors will be placed in the chassis cavity. I hope I can make a small stayalive for this. If not, then the flickering will have to simulate gas lanterns or something.

MTF.

 

[DeaconKC]

I'm really looking forward to how this turns out.

 

[Kusojiji]

I have two more to build after this. So far, so good. I should be able to use some of my standing folks in this.

 

[westtexjohn]

I have two more to build after this. So far, so good. I should be able to use some of my standing folks in this.

Carry on........looks neat !

John

 

[Kusojiji]

Decided to finally get off me arse and get moving on this.
Got the lights installed in the roof.

And holes and slots ground into the floor since it lays flat against the bottom chassis.

Did a little detailing to help get some contrast. Didn't know which was the chair and the table, so I ended up painting both, but in the end, made the command decision and sat the peeps on the lower part.

And then ran a test.

Got the rectifier and resistor mounted in the chassis, so just gotta get them joined together and then it'll be time to get the wheels and couplers in.

 

[Frenchie]

Decided to finally get off me arse and get moving on this.
Got the lights installed in the roof.
View attachment 269632

And holes and slots ground into the floor since it lays flat against the bottom chassis.
View attachment 269633

Did a little detailing to help get some contrast. Didn't know which was the chair and the table, so I ended up painting both, but in the end, made the command decision and sat the peeps on the lower part.
View attachment 269634

And then ran a test.
View attachment 269635

Got the rectifier and resistor mounted in the chassis, so just gotta get them joined together and then it'll be time to get the wheels and couplers in.

Absolutely amazing Kusojiji.
Will you lower the lighting intensity since it's visible through the car sides ?

 

[Kusojiji]

I don't know. It shows on the camera but I didn't notice it with my mk1 eyeball. I could barely see the lights.

 

[Kusojiji]

Here's another shot with the room lights on. Can barely see the overhead lights.

 

[Kusojiji]

Forgot to hit post on that last one. Anyway, got it all done and on the road.

So it ended up being too dim. Can't really see the interior as it goes around. Have to get the voltage up, but then it goes like crazy. It's supposed to go slow.

 

[Frenchie]

Yeah, always the same dilemma, too much or not enough. Finding the right balance, be lighting, scenery, weathering or anything else.
The first shot was certainly taken in a dark environment.