ShadowNix
UP and GN Modeler
Love this. I need to replace some of my brass old motors and I like the 3d printed mount
Giving me ideas!Brian
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- Thread starter Kusojiji
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Giving me ideas!
Brian
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Giving me ideas!Brian
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Yeah, it really does open doors. I have used the Kato HO motor in my blue box, Genesis and Atlas locos. Just made the bottom adapter and used goop to get it stuck in. Good thing about goop is that you can still pry it off later if needed.
Genesis SD70M motor mount.
Genesis SD70M motor mount.
That's a great motor. I've used it myself in a number of remotoring projects.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
You ever kill one? I have. In my Mantua Mikado. Not really sure why it overheated as it rolls fine when removed. I have the replacement, but it is still waiting for the transplant.
No, never. Under what circumstances? I have killed motors in steamers, usually by overloading them. The rule of thumb is the motor should have enough guts to cause the loco wheels to slip when you max out the tractive effort. If the loco stalls, you can kill one, possibly by operating too close to max effort for extended times. This was a common problem for narrow gauge steamers as the motors had to be tiny, but it's not unknown for HO standard gauge.
Colorado Midland Modeler
Proudly modeling the CM, MT & SL in HO Scale
One of the Cannon can motors might. I have a brass Rio Grande C-48 2-8-0 that a previous owner added lead weight to, it has a large Cannon can in it (don't know the model off hand) and the engine weighs about as much as one of those Mantua Mikes. It only happened once, but it did spin its drivers once when a track cleaning car snagged on something and got stuck.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
BRASS TROLLEY DUN
Finally got around to getting this thing done. Bought some peoples, glued their butts to the bench and got it all together. Slight gap at the front face to roof, but that's fine. Nothing's going to move.
The pantagraph pivots and can be stowed since it has springs. The roof isn't secured to the body, so I'll need to be careful. With the catchers on both ends, the tram has to be placed on the track squarely since they tend to hit first.
Had to do some black touch up work since the paint still just rubs off with handling.
Will be running tonight.
Finally got around to getting this thing done. Bought some peoples, glued their butts to the bench and got it all together. Slight gap at the front face to roof, but that's fine. Nothing's going to move.
The pantagraph pivots and can be stowed since it has springs. The roof isn't secured to the body, so I'll need to be careful. With the catchers on both ends, the tram has to be placed on the track squarely since they tend to hit first.
Had to do some black touch up work since the paint still just rubs off with handling.
Will be running tonight.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Thanks! Still going through some break in pains. Front side head and tail lamps lost power. Hope I didn't blow the LEDs again. The power bogy does have a spring to provide suspension on both axles, so I may need to bend them down a little bit to cushion the ride further. Don't want pieces and parts to go flying everytime she hits a rail joint.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
3D print sentinel shunter.
Found this on thingiverse and giving it a go.
First print of the chassis showed that it is way too big for HO, even though it said it is. So I reduced all the parts to 75%.
First thing was to create a template of the drive bogie.
The way tinkercad works is you have to use shapes to remove stuff. Create the shape, make it a negative and apply it to a part, in this case, the body shell.
First print came out ok, but the firebox didn't have enough connection to the footplate, so it broke off too easily.
So I added some support to it and it is now printing again.
The chassis, this is all that's left of it. All that side skirting had to go.
It will get a head light. I wanted to put a firebox flicker, but since the firebox door is now gone...
Found this on thingiverse and giving it a go.
First print of the chassis showed that it is way too big for HO, even though it said it is. So I reduced all the parts to 75%.
First thing was to create a template of the drive bogie.
The way tinkercad works is you have to use shapes to remove stuff. Create the shape, make it a negative and apply it to a part, in this case, the body shell.
First print came out ok, but the firebox didn't have enough connection to the footplate, so it broke off too easily.
So I added some support to it and it is now printing again.
The chassis, this is all that's left of it. All that side skirting had to go.
It will get a head light. I wanted to put a firebox flicker, but since the firebox door is now gone...
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
After several iterations, got the buffer ends modified to get the Kadees at the correct height.
Also printed up a fire engine red body and punched a square hole in the front for the headlamp. Will be placing the warm white LED at the end of it with a printed up adapter.
Tried to print the cab roof, but it turned into a bunch of spaghetti since it is too thin to stay stuck to the hotplate. It detaches and the printer doesn't care, so it just spews melted PLA all over. Funny that it stops when there is a tiny wisp of extra PLA, but doesn't notice major spaghetti. The algorithm is severely flawed.
Also printed up a fire engine red body and punched a square hole in the front for the headlamp. Will be placing the warm white LED at the end of it with a printed up adapter.
Tried to print the cab roof, but it turned into a bunch of spaghetti since it is too thin to stay stuck to the hotplate. It detaches and the printer doesn't care, so it just spews melted PLA all over. Funny that it stops when there is a tiny wisp of extra PLA, but doesn't notice major spaghetti. The algorithm is severely flawed.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Got the LED holder printed for the headlamp. It's a square hole at a 45 degree intersection with a round hole. Zero bleed at the front. Will bluetac the back to keep the light coming out the back of the LED under control.
Still trying to print out the cab roof. All attempts so far have been failures with the cab breaking off the hotplate and making spaghetti. I added some strengtheners to stabilize the thin parts, hopefully it'll work. Print will take 8 hours, so that'll be Wedneday as I have a hospital appt tomorrow.
Still trying to print out the cab roof. All attempts so far have been failures with the cab breaking off the hotplate and making spaghetti. I added some strengtheners to stabilize the thin parts, hopefully it'll work. Print will take 8 hours, so that'll be Wedneday as I have a hospital appt tomorrow.
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