RETIRED GUY PROJECTS
- Thread starter Kusojiji
- Start date
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Myself I found out that scenery building comes first, and running trains once in awhile is the break that allows me to enjoy the scenery as I follow slow moving trains. But I return to scenery relatively fast.
So far I didn't plan any serious operation, I know I should.
I don’t find installing decoders and sound in my old locos very appealing, I did so because, somehow, I had to.
Happy I did it though, sound is really the fourth dimension of model railroading.
Sometimes I wonder if model trains are not, for me, an excuse to build scenery.
As you say, tomorrow is another day.
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Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Got a lot done so far. Body put together and welded.
Some flux at the joint, a tiny bit of solder cut and laid in the flux and iron cranked up to 750c.
So those forms were a waste of time and material. I needed to go smaller than 5cm to account for the spring back.
What worked? My little bottle of no-ox id a special. The two roof pieces fit perfectly.
Then I built the undercarriage. Welded the motor mount in.
Then test fit the motor and body on.
I also primered the roof pieces, but found that the brasso attempt didn't work as the primer just scrapes off with my finger nail. So, will go with 1000 grit sand paper from now.
MTF.
Some flux at the joint, a tiny bit of solder cut and laid in the flux and iron cranked up to 750c.
So those forms were a waste of time and material. I needed to go smaller than 5cm to account for the spring back.
What worked? My little bottle of no-ox id a special. The two roof pieces fit perfectly.
Then I built the undercarriage. Welded the motor mount in.
Then test fit the motor and body on.
I also primered the roof pieces, but found that the brasso attempt didn't work as the primer just scrapes off with my finger nail. So, will go with 1000 grit sand paper from now.
MTF.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
This kit is neat in that it provides inserts for windows and doors to make painting easier.
Will go with a wood color for the inside and a darker mahogany outside.
Waiting for the paint to arrive. But it seems that Tamiya metal primer doesn't work. Didn't stick to the sanded stuff either, so will probably be soaking all in IPA to get the primer off and try another brand. Not sure which one will work yet.
Anyway, got my white metal control stand painted. The primer worked on this.
Got the decks going and welded.
Probably have to stop here until I figure out the primer issue.
Will go with a wood color for the inside and a darker mahogany outside.
Waiting for the paint to arrive. But it seems that Tamiya metal primer doesn't work. Didn't stick to the sanded stuff either, so will probably be soaking all in IPA to get the primer off and try another brand. Not sure which one will work yet.
Anyway, got my white metal control stand painted. The primer worked on this.
Got the decks going and welded.
Probably have to stop here until I figure out the primer issue.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Looks like the paint sticks without primer. Passed the fingernail test.
So, everybody in for an IPA bath.
While they are soaking, headlight got drilled and LED test fitted. Will not glue in until the lense comes in the mail, hopefully soon.
Since this has a doublewall front fascia, the wires will be run in between and down through the deck. I have a tail light fixture coming in the mail with the lense, so that'll get fitted out as well.
MTF.
So, everybody in for an IPA bath.
While they are soaking, headlight got drilled and LED test fitted. Will not glue in until the lense comes in the mail, hopefully soon.
Since this has a doublewall front fascia, the wires will be run in between and down through the deck. I have a tail light fixture coming in the mail with the lense, so that'll get fitted out as well.
MTF.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Tram coming along, but cannot get the paint to stick to the brass. I tried primer, that came off with my fingernail. So I had to soak it all in brake fluid and get it off all the parts. Then washed it in hot soapy water, dried over night, painted, and it still scrapes off with my finger nail. Not sure what I need to do as my test subject adhered perfectly. I'll give the damaged parts another spray and then let it cure for a few days.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Got the roof parts stripped down, sanded to try to add more tooth, and resprayed. Going to leave them for a few days and hope they stick this time.
Got the decks painted.
Found some seats and ordered them. I could have just printed stuff up, but didn't know what dimensions were needed. Now I have a template for the future.
Also finished the first class accomodations.
Got the decks painted.
Found some seats and ordered them. I could have just printed stuff up, but didn't know what dimensions were needed. Now I have a template for the future.
Also finished the first class accomodations.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Not sure how I'm going to do the tail lamp yet. One option is to glue an LED to the back of the lamp and print up a backing plate to limit the light to go fwd and not all over, or go with fiber and run the fiber down through the deck.
Figured out how to bend the .75mm fiber by soaking it in boiling water, put the fiber in a brass tube and bend the fiber.
I did try two 90s and light does make it out.
So, did a mock up with the light fixture and lense. Looks good, but it is a bit bulky.
Did manage to drop that tiny lense on the floor, but lucky enough to find it.
Jury still out.
Figured out how to bend the .75mm fiber by soaking it in boiling water, put the fiber in a brass tube and bend the fiber.
I did try two 90s and light does make it out.
So, did a mock up with the light fixture and lense. Looks good, but it is a bit bulky.
Did manage to drop that tiny lense on the floor, but lucky enough to find it.
Jury still out.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Got this guy in today. Wasn't a drunk buy... haha
After running it in, I decided to install the cabin lights and add some grease to try to quiet it down (I hemmed and hawwed about getting this due to it being reportedly noisy, but spun the wheel and lost).
Anyway, I drew up the plan for the light bar and printed it up. Very similar to my other tram, so I just shortened it.
Stuck the LED strip to it and soldered everything together. It needed a bridge rectifier, so I just used the parts that I removed from the KOTODEN tram when I converted it to DCC.
So this thing is completely different from the KOTODEN and the stuff I found on the interweb. This thing has the LEDs mounted on the lightboard and uses light runners to get the light to where it needs to go.
So the floorboard is mounted to the body and not to the chassis. After I installed the LED strip and electronics, I ran into an issue where I didn't want to have wires running between the body and chassis. I decided on brass pickups to make contact with the pads provided on the light board.
And they worked!
Next up is detailing the cabin, installing some folks and working the mechanism. Tomix uses cheap cr@p motors and replacing them with coreless motors definitely works. I'll try to work it as much as I can and if all fails, then transplant will probably happen.
After running it in, I decided to install the cabin lights and add some grease to try to quiet it down (I hemmed and hawwed about getting this due to it being reportedly noisy, but spun the wheel and lost).
Anyway, I drew up the plan for the light bar and printed it up. Very similar to my other tram, so I just shortened it.
Stuck the LED strip to it and soldered everything together. It needed a bridge rectifier, so I just used the parts that I removed from the KOTODEN tram when I converted it to DCC.
So this thing is completely different from the KOTODEN and the stuff I found on the interweb. This thing has the LEDs mounted on the lightboard and uses light runners to get the light to where it needs to go.
So the floorboard is mounted to the body and not to the chassis. After I installed the LED strip and electronics, I ran into an issue where I didn't want to have wires running between the body and chassis. I decided on brass pickups to make contact with the pads provided on the light board.
And they worked!
Next up is detailing the cabin, installing some folks and working the mechanism. Tomix uses cheap cr@p motors and replacing them with coreless motors definitely works. I'll try to work it as much as I can and if all fails, then transplant will probably happen.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Well, the noise got to me, so I started the remotoring process to coreless.
First up is the coreless adapter. Drew it up and got lucky after only two drafts.
Fit like a glove.
Next step is the no turning back point. Gotta remove the flywheels from the original motor and install on the coreless motor. Will need to cut some brass tubing to get from the coreless 1mm shaft to the flywheel 1.5mm.
First up is the coreless adapter. Drew it up and got lucky after only two drafts.
Fit like a glove.
Next step is the no turning back point. Gotta remove the flywheels from the original motor and install on the coreless motor. Will need to cut some brass tubing to get from the coreless 1mm shaft to the flywheel 1.5mm.
Yes but, tell me if I am wrong, my feelings are that equiping and modifying locos, all the necessary brainstorming needed, is definitely your thing, way before running trains which is more like a way to test your work and having a break.
Myself I found out that scenery building comes first, and running trains once in awhile is the break that allows me to enjoy the scenery as I follow slow moving trains. But I return to scenery relatively fast.
So far I didn't plan any serious operation, I know I should.
I don’t find installing decoders and sound in my old locos very appealing, I did so because, somehow, I had to.
Happy I did it though, sound is really the fourth dimension of model railroading.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I think you are right. Eventually, I end up changing all my stuff to DCC and adding capability. However, when I get to the point where my frustration is too high, then it is time to run some trains. I sit back, watch the train go around the room, watch TV and then sometimes, I get working again that same night. But, tonight is definitely a no go.
I was cutting my brass tubing to adapt the flywheel to the motor. Normally, I have no issues. Today, nothing but issues as I could not keep the blade in the same groove and was just making what looked like spirals. I use the razor blade method and go back and forth until it finally cuts through.
I don't know of any other way to cut 1.5mm brass tube. It needs to be precise enough to allow the flywheel to slide on. A little resistance is good, but not too much or I risk damaging the tube. The inside diameter is something I can recover from with a .98mm drill bit.
Tomorrow is another day...
I was cutting my brass tubing to adapt the flywheel to the motor. Normally, I have no issues. Today, nothing but issues as I could not keep the blade in the same groove and was just making what looked like spirals. I use the razor blade method and go back and forth until it finally cuts through.
I don't know of any other way to cut 1.5mm brass tube. It needs to be precise enough to allow the flywheel to slide on. A little resistance is good, but not too much or I risk damaging the tube. The inside diameter is something I can recover from with a .98mm drill bit.
Tomorrow is another day...
Correct Kusojiji, running trains is definitely the necessary break when everything seems to go wrong or when we feel fed up.
Sometimes I wonder if model trains are not, for me, an excuse to build scenery.
As you say, tomorrow is another day.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
TOMIX HO MO 510 TRAM CORELESS
Pulled out my gear puller and removed the flywheels. The brass inserts needed some fine sanding at the edges, but it fit all the way in. Didn't need any glue as they were quite tight.
The motor shaft slid in, so I used some loctite 603. If the motor should fail, I can still remove the flywheels.
Gooped the motor mounts in and then the motor. Runs nice and smoothly now. I really do not like that Tomix M-13 motor that they use in almost everything.
Now, on to detailing the interior. Have some peoples coming in the mail today and they'll be cut almost in half since this thing really doesn't have any depth.
Pulled out my gear puller and removed the flywheels. The brass inserts needed some fine sanding at the edges, but it fit all the way in. Didn't need any glue as they were quite tight.
The motor shaft slid in, so I used some loctite 603. If the motor should fail, I can still remove the flywheels.
Gooped the motor mounts in and then the motor. Runs nice and smoothly now. I really do not like that Tomix M-13 motor that they use in almost everything.
Now, on to detailing the interior. Have some peoples coming in the mail today and they'll be cut almost in half since this thing really doesn't have any depth.
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