Realistic coal

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cncproadwarrior

cncproadwarrior

North of the 49th
I'm a diesel guy but I had to have 1 steam engine. So I opted for a Blueline N&W 2-6-6-4. I'm happy with it but would like to make the coal in the tender look more realistic.

I know the procedure of coating the existing coal with white glue and sprinkling the "coal" on it. But what material I could use for this?
 
If you're not in a rush I can send you some coal chips from the plant I worked at. I also have some "bug dust" coal, that's the very fine dust left over from the larger dust on the conveyors, kind of like baby powder.
 


Bernie, if the molded coal itself looks OK, I use some Floquil Crystal Cote and paint it directly on the coal load. Gives it just enough gloss and sparkle to make it look more like loose coal.
 
UP2CSX said:
Bernie, if the molded coal itself looks OK, I use some Floquil Crystal Cote and paint it directly on the coal load. Gives it just enough gloss and sparkle to make it look more like loose coal.
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Not all coal is shiny, is depends on what you're using...
 
Coal has multiple facets, and those facets all look differently, including how they reflect light. Some sparkle, some do not. So you may or may not be happy with all that effort. I also use the WS coal, probably black glass bits or something...not sure what it is. Here is how it looks around my coaling tower and on the discharge chute.

IMG_3480coalzoom.png


I painted the surface and inside flanges of the chute with a thin layer of white glue and poured enough coal over it to stick to and cover the glue. Once it had dried, I added a top layer the same way.

-Crandell
 
To each is own, but I would not recommend using real coal in model locomotive tenders. Over time it will bleed that tarry stuff in coal. The same goop that comes out when they bake it to make coke. What that would do to plastic or brass I'd not care to find out, but it would not be good. This would not happen over night, but will happen over time.

There are modeling equivalents that will serve nicely and not damage the model. Just my $.02
 


If you're referring to coal tar, I don't think there's any danger of that happening to a couple grams of coal chips / dust on a model railroad layout... Do a little reading first and see what it takes to get that stuff. Also, it's sold in plastic containers for use as a topical solution to treat psoriasis...
 
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Yard_Duty said:
If you're referring to coal tar, I don't think there's any danger of that happening to a couple grams of coal chips / dust on a model railroad layout... Do a little reading first and see what it takes to get that stuff. Also, it's sold in plastic containers for use as a topical solution to treat psoriasis...
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My problem is with your first sentence: "I don't think..."

I know you have to bake coal in a coke oven at high temperatures to get the volatiles out...fast. What comes out is significantly stronger than what the drug store sells. I would be concerned about what would happen over a period of years. I have heard of problems with real coal after years in a tender from brass owners. Are you sure? Really sure?

Like I said originally, to each his/her own. Knock yourself out. For me and my expensive models, I'll stick with something inert. There are several good possibilities in todays catalog of scenery products. Good Luck.
 
Espeefan said:
To each is own, but I would not recommend using real coal in model locomotive tenders. Over time it will bleed that tarry stuff in coal. The same goop that comes out when they bake it to make coke. What that would do to plastic or brass I'd not care to find out, but it would not be good. This would not happen over night, but will happen over time.

There are modeling equivalents that will serve nicely and not damage the model. Just my $.02
Click to expand...

Many many G scale modelers use real coal chips and chunks for coal loads. I have never heard anything like what you are describing happen. I too use real coal for some of my G scale models and it has never done anything like you are describing over many years. It's surprisingly stable stuff. And looks real, because it is real.

But remember this is for use with G scale. I highly doubt real coal would ever "scale down" enough for HO use.
 
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Alan;

Real coal won't hurt brass, or plastic tenders. I've used it in the past and have never had problems with it. In fact until WS came out with their "coal", which is crushed walnut shells IIRC, you only had two choices for coal commercially. Burnt cork, ala Bachmann, and the cheaper senic material providers, and real processed crushed coal. 30-40 years ago, John's Ballast company and Campbell's coals were the best you could get, cause they were made from real coal.

If real coal concerns you, brush paint the insides of the bunker with a sealer, like a clear poly urethane, and then fill the bunker. I promise, it won't hurt the paint or metal.
 


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