Railbed?

[ghost02]

So how do i go about putting railbed? I do not want to use the snap on railbeds, but I have no idea how to make my own! Any tips?

 

[hamltnblue]

I assume you're talking about roadbed.
I used foam roadbed but you can also get cork.
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/HOScaleTrackBedSystem
Trace out your track pattern. Then glue the roadbed down following the pattern. After that you can glue the track to the roadbed or use track nails. Ballast the track and you're all set.

There are also products available that are snap track types that have a plastic roadbed attached.

 

[ghost02]

Awsome, great link. How do I ballast the track?

 

[Selector]

To ballast, get a suitable scale shape and colour of material and sprinkle it over the tracks...not much, and run it along a bit. Then, using your finger, rub it and spread it down the tracks in between the rails. The idea is to learn how to do this so that it doesn't look terrible...so don't expect your first three minutes to turn out magazine quality ballast.

Or, you can use an artist's brush, a fairly wide one, not too short in the bristles. Wipe away, and try to keep stuff off the tie tops. Also, groom it so that what lies outside the tie ends falls on a nicely shaped slope.

Arizona Rock & Mineral has a good selection of scale ballast material. Woodland Scenics sells bags of their own. Avoid the material that is actually crushed walnut shells. You want real screened rock.

I used local beach sand, washed, dried, and tested for any material that might move toward a magnet.

Once it is all groomed, lightly dribble a drugstore strength mix of isopropyl alcohol and water to soak the material. Then, carefully, soak it with a light mixture of yellow or white glue and water, about two parts glue to four parts water. Or, use matte medium, such as Mod Podge (Wal Mart crafts section) diluted equally with water.

Getting back to roadbed, you can use almost anything that won't swell and change shape when humid or actually wet...such as when you glue the ballast. In my case, I was offered some 1/8" yellow vinyl commercial carpet underlay, and used that under my yard soil. On the rest of my system I have spline roadbed, so nothing else needed.

-Crandell

 

[ghost02]

Thank you very much!

 

[Necrosaro420]

Forgive me for my newness, but what is a ballast?

 

[julienjj]

its is actually the crushed stone under the rail and wood ties, it is an important part of a real life track since it transfert the weight of the train to the ground and absorb vibration

Check this picture

 

[ICG/SOU]

Ballast also helps with drainage.

 

[Selector]

Yes, it has all these functions. Chiefly it is to improve drainage to keep the ties from rotting, and in order to do that, it must provide some elevation above the mean terrain elevation. So, the engineers grade the sub-roadbed, fill with suitable material for roadbed, compact it, and then lay the cross-ties and rails. Then then pour on the ballast and groom it to look like you see in the photo, tie tops mostly swept clear of stones, and the apron of the ballast, outside the ties, is crisp and sloped.

-Crandell

 

[ianacole]

When using roadbed in conjunction with a turntable, like the Walthers 90' one, do you elevate the turntable to meet the rail at roadbed height, or taper down the roadbed (at an acceptable grade) to meet the turntable height as it could sit flush on the layout?

 

[hamltnblue]

If planning ahead you want to raise it to meet the track height it's hooking to.

 

[bigford]

the most important advise

 

[julienjj]

it should have been saying : The google you will use

 

[Selector]

When using roadbed in conjunction with a turntable, like the Walthers 90' one, do you elevate the turntable to meet the rail at roadbed height, or taper down the roadbed (at an acceptable grade) to meet the turntable height as it could sit flush on the layout?

Yes. Either/or, a bit of both...

 

[ghost02]

Quick update, I got the track, just need it to stop raining so I can get my board and foam! I really want to get this started... Going to follow this track plan:

http://www.chipengelmann.com/trains/Photos/4x8Contest/4x8ContestEntry04.html

 

[bkpigs]

Looks like a pretty good track plan. I like his idea of not using a double slip at the bottom to make it feel like there is more distance between the areas. The first thing I thought of was putting a double slip there. But then I read the bottom of the page and now would definitely not put one there.

 

[julienjj]

I have a bad news for you . I tried to do that plan and it didnt worked well. Its look good on paper, but in practice... the plan track width isnt scale, and its ended up with everything behing too close, like those sidings in the long stretches, well, they end up being too short for more than 4 cars, plus the switch(turnout) placed directly after a curve are really derailment prone (i learned later to never put a switch more than 6 inch to a curve, if its in the same direction) if you use anything smaller than #6.
Still that plan would be amazing on a 12 x 6

 

[tankist]

... plus the switch(turnout) placed directly after a curve are really derailment prone (i learned later to never put a switch more than 6 inch to a curve, if its in the same direction) if you use anything smaller than #6.

not necessarily. while i agree S curves should be avoided at all cost, in one instance i had no choice - right hand crossover immidiatley after left-hand curve. after switching to Peco (medium radius in this case) turnouts 0 derailments in this location, going both ways

 

[ghost02]

Well then, back to the track plan search!

Anyone have any good ideas for a 4x8? I would like realistic Union Pacific, I am just having the hardest time with it though.

 

[Selector]

Why not use a curved turnout? Several people make them, and they are great plan savers.

-Crandell