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I just picked this up tonight and its my first kit.
If anyone here has built this kit or knows about it,
Should I use liquid plastic cement for all of the pieces?
It doesn't seem like anything snaps togather.
What is the easiest way to put this togather?
The instructions are kind of vague.
You'll need plastic cement to build that kit. It is one of the earlier walthers kits, so it doesn't go together as well as the newer kits. You'll need some body filler to make the silos look good. Plan on painting the assembled kit to cover the body filler.
It's been almost ten years since I built that kit, so I don't remember much about the steps to building it now and the building it self is on my Dad's layout. Sorry I can't offer much advice on the steps to assembling the kit.
Been awhile for me as well. I remember that I wasn't to concerned about making the joints look good when gluing. Just get the silo's glued together well. Then go over all the joints with putty to make sure there's no divots. Then take some small grit sandpaper and smooth out all the joints and paint.
I don't have the kit, but I'm pretty sure it's not a snap-together kit. When I built Farmer's Co-op, I used either Tenax 7R or Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement (which is actually MEK - you can get that at Home Depot or Lowes, but you need big ventilation before you use MEK since it's a strong-smelling solvent.). Take the pieces part by part, position correctly, then use a synthetic paintbrush to dab the cement along the seam, put together. One of the two dries faster than the other. If the external seam is apparent, use Squadron Green Putty to fill and sand. That stuff is similar to Automotive Bondo.
I have one of these plus an extra pack of magnets, so I can do a number of wall sides simultaneously.... Works well with the DPM or Walthers Modulars stuff.
when using the liquid cement use a smaller brush than comes with the bottle of glue or I like the glue from faller it comes thick or thin dries fast and has a no spill metal applicator
Thank you guys for the info.
I went by the LHS and picked up white putty, Testers liquid plastic cement, and a filer. It took me little over 4 hours to complete today and it wasn't as hard as I thought. It just looked intimadating at first. But I took my time and pre fit the parts before gluing and it all came togather like a charm.
You might want to consider something like Tenax 7R its a solvent instead of a glue. Ive been using it on all my kits as of late.. its Faster Acting, is easier to use (just hold the parts together, and brush this stuff on, it melts the plastic together) and in just a few seconds you can simply let go. From what ive found, its a better joint too...
Yeah I'll have to pick that up. Have to use it on my next structure. Thanks for the tip!
Ill be barrowing my girlfirend's sisters camera tommarow so ill takes some pics.
I'm having trouble figuering out how to put the decal logos on this thing. Thier not stickers, Seems like you have to apply with water. Would somone know how to do this?
OK, if the Tenax is the faster acting of the two, then I use it to weld sections that are sprung, or the last pieces that need fitting. I use the Testors for the first assembly; I can coat each of the mating surfaces and they'll still be tacky when I fit the pieces together.
I like Tenax to repair the buildings I buy at train shows or on eBay that are beat up or poorly assembled. If a joint is sprung and the piece hasn't fallen off, you can pretty much put it back into place. Once it goes back to where it should go, I use Tenax to weld the pieces together.
Yeah I'll have to pick that up. I'm having trouble figuering out how to put the decal logos on this thing. Thier not stickers, Seems like you have to apply with water. Would somone know how to do this?
http://www.abc-pinewood-derby.com/decals.htm, although it's a pinewodd derby car site, has a great short course in how to decal. All the instructions apply to plastic as well as wood.
