Question about purchasing used track


Shoebox1.1

New Member
I’m brand new getting started in model railroading. I’ve got about 30x150 in space in garage for a layout. H.O. Scale. I haven’t bought anything yet. I know I want DCC, NCE power cab and U.P. And BNSF engines as I’m here in dfw and that’s what we have come through. I’m on a super budget and want to buy used track to get started laying out quick and cheap. Atlas standard track or regular Bachman I’m thinking. Whatever’s most common on let’s say ebay in lots. I’m thinking laying it down on cork. Doing the paint and ballast myself. Thanks for any suggestions! Gus
 
Welcome aboard Gus. Nothing wrong with used track if you apply a little elbow grease. Just be sure everything is the same code whether it be code 100 or code 83. Watch out on the Bachman track, as I believe that some is steel and some is nickel-silver. You want NS.
I read your other post and noticed that you were from Dallas TX.The Dallas area has a really great model railroad hobby shop called Discount Model Railroads just off Addison road in Addison. Everything there is 20% off MSRP. Cork from Midwest Products is sold there. Midwest's website indicates that the manufacturer is out of stock, but the last time that I was in Discount about a month ago, they had plenty.
 
Welcome to the group Gus! As an option, you may want to look at Kato Unitrack. Its pretty readily available on eBay at a good price if you are patient. Its as bullet proof out of the box as your going to get, and its code 83 rail. The beauty of it is, you can be up, and running in about 15 minutes with a simple loop. You can also snap different configurations together to find what fits your space.
 
Used Track? Pot luck? Pig in a poke? Lucky Dip? All those phrases come to mind, Sectional track? For the space you've got to fill? Time, lot's of effort, money wasted if you later decide to replace with new. (mostly the effort and materials wasted) Faults in the used you didn't notice when you bought it. Laying the trackwork is the key, the literal basis of your layout. You don't just "throw down some track" and expect the small flanged train wheels on models today to stay on it.
 
The code numbers refer to the height of the rail, measured in 1/100th of an inch. Code 100 =100/100th". Code 83 = 83/100th". 100 is overscale height, but sturdier, takes more punishment. 83 is lower and closer to scale, but demands more care in laying.
 
The code numbers refer to the height of the rail, measured in 1/100th of an inch. Code 100 =100/100th". Code 83 = 83/100th". 100 is overscale height, but sturdier, takes more punishment. 83 is lower and closer to scale, but demands more care in laying.

Not to nitpick, but code 100 is 100 thousandths of an inch. 83 is 83/1000. If code 100 was 100/100th, the rails would be an inch tall... :)
 
I have a lot of track I bought used (all code 100), and like Willie said, may take a little cleanup. In my case, I've had to soak it to get the old ballast and glue off of it, but if you have more time than funds, it can make the hobby easier on the wallet. That said, I have purchased a lot of stuff second hand (estate\garage sales, second hand resell shops, etc.). I have also quite a collection of brass track I'll never use as it was part of a lot of train stuff.

I would buy 1 brand and type and stick with it.
 
I just set my recycled from old layout track on an outdoor table during a heavy rain to loosen the glue. Then brushed with a brass bristle wire brush like a BBQ grill brush.
Gus - Use as much flextrack as you can. It will be a lot easier. If it is used, you may have to trim it a bit.

Gotta get some rain for that to work.....lol, But soaking it in a tub of water and a stiff brush made short work. Remove the switch machine (electric or manual) and Atlas turnouts can be soaked as well.

Gus: On a large layout, you want as much flex as you can. It reduces the number of electrical connections that may cause you problems in the future.
 
I may be wrong, but I suspect you will find more used Code 100 available. Yes, Code 100 represents prototype sized rails that are quite heavy. The Pennsylvania RR used some of a similar size, while most Class I roads used somewhat lighter rails...which Code 83 is closer. But, if 17/1000 (.017)" difference is readily discernible, I can't see it, even with my new eye lenses (successful cataract surgery in both eyes). Code 100 has a slight advantage in reliability, especially with some older locomotives and rolling stock. If you were going with new track and turnouts, you probably would go with Code 83, but used Code 100 will probably be more available.

As far as Atlas sectional track is concerned, in either codes, I find it useful for tight curves, as it is available in 22" radius, 18"R and 15"R. Turnouts (track switches) from Atlas have the switch machines that attach directly to the turnout, albeit they are above the table top. For a large layout, where you have some long stretches of main line and passing sidings, you will want flextrack. It will eliminate a bunch of rail joints. Peco brand turnouts can also be a good choice, but I don't care for their switch machines. They can be controlled by under-the-table machines or manually thrown.

You want nickel-silver track and turnouts, as they are easier to maintain, although I have old brass track on fiber ties that I've had for years from my original layouts which I use for sidings and in a few places where I had Atlas Snap Switches that fit just right.

I use cork roadbed, but have never bothered ballasting...yet. Too lazy, I guess. Anyway, welcome to the hobby. Stay well and safe!
 
That's a pretty big space you have there.

Like a few have said code 100 is the most often used size, and probably easiest to find used,...particularly as new track has gotten kind of pricey. You might also consider that you want turnouts to match that same size track, and used code 100 is a bit easier to find, and easier on the pocket book. I've found in the past that painting the track (& ties, ....weathering) makes the code 100 seem smaller.

I'm using all code 100 flex track and Peco turnouts on my new layout. But not being a computer track planning wiz, I designed mine with the old drawn pencil. But getting the details to work out correctly in laying track and turnouts ended up much easier and more fun when I started to plan the layout with full size track and switches on brown paper,...loke this
https://modelrailroadforums.com/for...ill-mainline-pick-up.31511/page-2#post-460410

...and this,...
Full Size Paper Templates of Trackplan
those paper templates of the Peco switches were a life saver.

BTW it also helps to have some old junk track ( I term it,...brass, steel, sectional curves of different radi, etc) around to use during track planning. One doesn't mind cutting it up to explore a custom fitting.

Peco turnouts (at least the code 100s) also have the distinction having a curved radius shape to their diverging routes, rather than straight segments at their diverging tracks (not prototypical of American trains and track). But it allows one to get a more compact track plan, and utilize those regular turnouts within curved portions of a plan.

I also HIGHLY recommend the Peco large curved turnouts ( I call them double-curves like the British do). They are rather large radi of 30" & 60" on one single switch,... which at first I thought was going to see very little use,...boy was I surprised at how useful they are.
 
I agree that, on a budget, Code 100 is probably more widely available used, and therefore cheaper. Just go into such purchases with no high excitement or expectations. Be realistic.

Flex track is something you’ll eventually want to use. It really is more utile.

The EZ-Track and others might be a bargain used, but be advised that it is less flexible for customizing track geometry, and that both the joiners and plastic fake ballast don’t wear well. The plastic wows, and the joiners splay, or they get dirty inside and won’t help with electrical continuity.
 
Gentlemen at the train shop did advise me that in the garage which sees plenty of moisture/hot/cold the joints could expand and contact causing issues. The way my driveway is if it rains quite hard the garage could get inch or so of water sometimes. I open the doors and broom it out when that happens. I’m a little concerned about what affect that might have. If I humbled myself to a 4x8 I could take it inside (sometimes). There are extra rooms- “formal dining” and guest bedroom. Wife says NO to both for permanent layout. I hear ya on the flex track. I for sure want that. I’m more of a “watching trains move and hearing sounds guy” than all the super detailed scenic stuff. I’m thinking pretty flat layout with long runs between industries- lots of tanker cars!
 



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