Quality of track between the different companies

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railBuilderDhd

Active Member
I would like to know if the quality of the track you buy from one company is better than the next. I’m looking at the cost of the code 83 nickel silver rail between companies like Peco, BK Enterprises, and Atlas and can’t believe the differences in cost. Why would I but the one over the other. I ask this since I’m shopping on the internet and can’t see a difference in the rails as I may be able to notice in the LHS. I understand the cost of something special like a wye turnout or special numbered turnout.
dhd
 
I'm not a track expert by any means; but from what I've heard, it's the turnouts that really make a difference. Atlas t/o's work generally OK - I have a bunch of them on my own layout - but they have design issues. You need to fiddle around with them to avoid derailments. Peco turnouts, on the other hand, are known for being much more trouble-free than Atlas - but you pay alot extra for that reliability!

Other types of track, some might have more realistic-looking spikes, ties, etc than the cheaper brands.
 
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IMHO and for DCC HO:
When you consider all: the cost, looks, ease at installation, and reliability you can't beat Atlas Flex Code 83 for track. I would bet that the majority of all modelers are now using this track.

I'm like Ken, in that I have some Atlas turnouts. I have experienced several problems with them, mostly at the point pivots becoming corroded (dirty) and not making reliable contact or the points at the spreader bar becomes loose and has to be Super glued to keep them in place.

I use Walthers Shinohara turnouts almost everywhere (117). They are medium priced, look very good, and have been very reliable. However, you must be careful with the installation and not flex the rails too much. They have spot welded jumpers on them and you can pop the weld. Repairable, but a pain.

I have a few Peco's, but their price is way out of range for me.
 


Other than Peco's price would you say they are much better then the other track? What about the use of Code 83 vs other's like code 100?
 
I don't have a million bucks to spend on my layout so I always have to make compromises. For switches, I use Atlas Customline #4 and #6's for yards and industrial spurs that don't come off the mainline. I'll even use Atlas Snap Switches if I'm really in a bind for space. For passing tracks off the mainline, wyes, and crossovers, I use Walthers Shinohara # 5 and #6 turnouts and would use #8's if I have the room. They are a good value for the price and look more realistic than the Atlas products. Both brands are generally very reliable although Atlas switches commonly need to have the points filed to get a sharper angle of departure. You also need to check the gauge through the frog as it is sometimes too narrow or too deep. This can be fixed but it needs to be done to get reliable operation. Shinohara turnouts usually require less prep work to get running reliably. Rex has pointed out the issues with both brands. I think Peco is way overpriced for what you get but they are very good looking switches. The most important thing with any switch is how they and the surrounding trackwork is laid. If everything is level, in gauge, and the points are sharp enough and move freely, your trains will run well. Scrimp on these and you'll have problems regardless of the type of switch.

Code 100 vs Code 83 is strictly a matter of preference and price, Code 100 is less expensive but it also is more out of scale than the Code 83. Code 83 is closer to mainline rail height and the ties are generally finer scale but it's also more expensive. Both types of track will work equally well as long as they are laid correctly. I can't overemphasize that your care in track laying is way more important than any brand of track or switch.
 
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Micro Engineering flex track. Not many people use it because Atlas costs less, but ME is stiffer, it'll hold a curve you bend it to. ME switches are sprung too.

BK Enterprises is a custom manufacturer, they make each switch by hand.
 
One thing to note: If you go code 100, you are going with a lame duck. From what I have picked up on is it is being slowly phased out, thus the lower price. In fact, there is no longer a listing on Walthers for Walthers Shinohara code 100 turnouts, dcc friendly or otherwise.
 
Good point, Rex, Code 100 is now becoming more nad more of a dinosaur outside of the trainset world and more and more items are being made in code 83 only. If I was starting over, I would probably go with code 83 just for that reason alone. Of course, by the time I got done, Code 70 would be the standard. :)
 
I don't have a million bucks to spend on my layout so I always have to make compromises. For switches, I use Atlas Customline #4 and #6's for yards and industrial spurs that don't come off the mainline. I'll even use Atlas Snap Switches if I'm really in a bind for space. For passing tracks off the mainline, wyes, and crossovers, I use Walthers Shinohara # 5 and #6 turnouts and would use #8's if I have the room. They are a good value for the price and look more realistic than the Atlas products. Both brands are generally very reliable although Atlas switches commonly need to have the points filed to get a sharper angle of departure. You also need to check the gauge through the frog as it is sometimes too narrow or too deep. This can be fixed but it needs to be done to get reliable operation. Shinohara turnouts usually require less prep work to get running reliably. Rex has pointed out the issues with both brands. I think Peco is way overpriced for what you get but they are very good looking switches. The most important thing with any switch is how they and the surrounding trackwork is laid. If everything is level, in gauge, and the points are sharp enough and move freely, your trains will run well. Scrimp on these and you'll have problems regardless of the type of switch.

Code 100 vs Code 83 is strictly a matter of preference and price, Code 100 is less expensive but it also is more out of scale than the Code 83. Code 83 is closer to mainline rail height and the ties are generally finer scale but it's also more expensive. Both types of track will work equally well as long as they are laid correctly. I can't overemphasize that your care in track laying is way more important than any brand of track or switch.

With all this said about the care of the way the track is layed being more important than the source of the track: Do you have any tips, tricks, or points that will help me with the layout I'm now starting?
Thanks everyone for the input.
dhd
 
With all this said about the care of the way the track is layed being more important than the source of the track: Do you have any tips, tricks, or points that will help me with the layout I'm now starting?
...

For basic introductory info, I always recommend the Kalmbach starter books. They are more likely to give accurate info. Some books that might be suited to your situation are Jeff Wilson's Basic Trackwork for Model Railroaders and John Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operation, 3rd Edition. (I sure wish I had read them before I started my current layout...:o )
 


Indeed, I'll go with Ken on his recommendations. You really need one or both of these books to both study and have by your side as you lay tracks. There are great pictures and instructions by experts, not ideas from duffers like me. I've built enough layouts that I've learned most of the ways to do it wrong by trial and error and most of the ways to do it right by luck and a little skill. It's a lot easier to start out right with your first layout. You may not even feel the urge to rip it up after three months of frustration like I did about four times. :)
 
Ken -
I'm currently finishing up the book "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" and found it to be a great resource of information. I find myself asking a question here and then read about that same subject that evening when I get a little time to read at home. I hope to start reading the “Basic Trackwork for Model Railroads” this weekend. I’ve been working on my layout with the free software I downloaded and I’m not sure if I’m happy with what I’ll be able to model in the area I have available at this time. I hope to get the layout done soon so I can start laying the track. I’ll be uploading the layout soon to get feedback from anyone before I start to build the layout. I know there are things I’m not thinking of or others that I can change to improve the payout.
Thanks for the info,
dhd
 
DHD, that is two very good books to study and follow. But remember, books are only a guide and can't cover everything for your particular layout. Don't be intimidated or overwhelmed of all the many ideas and methods, nor should you take them as absolutes. Use them as a guide to help your ideas work ;).
 
Thanks Rex,
I do plan to make the layout my own but the input is important to help a newbie think of those thinks I don't even have a clue to because I'm so new to model rail building. The bigest problem I have is I want to model all kinds of areas along the rail like docks, city streets, cement or other plants, and on and on.
dhd
 
You are more than welcome, Dhd.
The only thing that limits your layout is time, space, money, and imagination. There are books out there that have ideas on industries, towns, rural scenery, etc...
Also, check out some other layouts by visit or on the Internet. The NMRA web site http://www.nmra.org/
is a very good site to learn and get ideas. There is also this site http://cwrr.com/nmra/ that has a link (Layout Tours) down the left side of page to visit layouts via web.:)

Sorry about my link. I have to do something about that one day :o . That photo site changed to a new format and where I managed to save my photos, I haven't transferred them to the new setup.:rolleyes: :D
 
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My entire layout consists of Atlas Code 83 Flex Track with Atlas Code 83 Custom-Line turnouts. So far, everything runs great and the price was right.
 
Okay, I'll jump in here...
I'll be using code 100 in the helix, and lots of it!
I agree the code 100 is a bit of a dinosaur but it is sturdy and cheap to boot.
(I use 83 and under on most visible areas)
I'm planning on going with the Atlas code 100 but also have access to lots of Model Power code 100 right now. How does that compare to the Atlas?
By the way Dhd, I use primarily Atlas code 83 & 100 track with mostly Peco switches.
 
Model Power track for a helix will work fine. The only real difference is that MP track has a more European look with bolt fastners to the ties. Otherwise, it will perform just as well as Atlas.
 


I've mainly used code 100 Atlas on my layouts over the years, but in the past year I've bought a cpl. cases of Model Power track because it was a lot cheaper. There's 2 things about MP track that will give U a fit sometimes. The ends of the rails have a lot of burrs that have to be filed before installing connectors & only one rail slides in a radius. Otherwise it's a real nice track to install. The ties are a speck taller than Atlas, but doesn't make a difference that is noticable when connecting to other mfgr.'s track.
I always use Atlas turnouts & some of the older 1's have to be tuned before installation.
Someday, after I win the lottery I will go w/the more expensive track & switches, but, now I have to settle w/what I can afford living on Social security & medicare. LOL
Larry
 




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