Pulpwood cars being weathered


TLOC

Well-Known Member
Hello

let me know which of the 2 pulp cars look right to you

I am using pro type pictures to go off of but I am terrible with colors and the wife says both are OK

Both cars have been faded with the same pan pastel Neutral Gray Extra Dark, the difference is the steel side brackets.


This car has the side brackets rusted with pan pastel Orange Extra Dark
B7F1905C-0B1B-46CC-8235-E8A5561E57C6.jpeg

this one is painted with Vallejo Panzer Aces Dark Rust #302
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This is a direct comparison photo. Let me know which one you think is better or if both suck which is we’re I am leaning. Be constructive I can handle good critical comments. Nothing is dull coted yet so adjustments or start overs are fine
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Thanks
Tom
 
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I like the Vallejo one more there is more orange rust tones,,if you want deep rusting and you know the metal in question you can Google the rusted metal in question as there are charts which help you get the correct colours
also rust can come in more than one tone I often put a brown with an orange for an older rusting item here are some rust developing pictures that I took for reference
383F14E4-D128-4399-84E6-5195E8438AC9.jpeg
10CE25C1-1DC1-43D5-A233-1FAD9ACB5903.jpeg
1210E92A-673B-4FD9-A2CC-968A23BE089F.jpeg
82B97EEC-5077-4FF1-A714-97CCC77D77D2.jpeg

F29555AC-00DE-45B8-BA60-705D1F979BA7.jpeg
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53C3CF49-D429-4330-AEB6-41547D03AC55.jpeg
B5C3789F-E1B7-47F3-B40E-04A8F276C163.jpeg

I do painted version but the deluxe is a real chemical reaction which is a real form of rust the size is a touch over scale but looks the business likely too much for the wagon but with a small dab you will get very fine results, hope it helps happy to add more pictures if you want.
6A975326-75A2-40DA-830D-079107254950.jpeg
8EAC0BC1-3A26-4659-B15F-C8FDE46F4AC7.jpeg
 
I like the Vallejo one more there is more orange rust tones,,if you want deep rusting and you know the metal in question you can Google the rusted metal in question as there are charts which help you get the correct colours
also rust can come in more than one tone I often put a brown with an orange for an older rusting item here are some rust developing pictures that I took for reference
View attachment 133991View attachment 133992View attachment 133993View attachment 133994
View attachment 133987View attachment 133988View attachment 133989View attachment 133990
I do painted version but the deluxe is a real chemical reaction which is a real form of rust the size is a touch over scale but looks the business likely too much for the wagon but with a small dab you will get very fine results, hope it helps happy to add more pictures if you want.
View attachment 133995View attachment 133996
Thanks JazA, appreciate the comments. I like the texture you have on the rust. I will need to play with that. These cars won’t need that texture of heavy rust but stuff down the rails will

Tom
 
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I am no expert on pulpwood cars, simply because I don't ever see them here in the plains. I like the looks of 38026 better, but both look pretty good
Thanks Willie

I have to pull out the pictures I am going from if I can get permissions. Terry and the daughter have a better chance of matching colors then I do and the daughter said she’ll look this afternoon.

TomO
 
Thanks JazA, appreciate the comments. I like the texture you have on the rust. I will need to play with that. These cars won’t need that texture of heavy rust but stuff down the rails will

Tom
F457541D-7E40-4237-9317-05317FE55ACF.jpeg

ECBC6309-FF84-44E2-9A8C-C817ED194BD0.jpeg


just paint, an orange brown and an orange, acrylics have a good texture

9ECF8783-8E2E-4FB9-AC44-8DA6707366C4.jpeg

i often mix the two colours together in different combinations and play until happ
18BC5F91-9012-4CC0-81BD-74EA7E5EF1C7.jpeg

if using white I have in the past scraped it a bit for the flaky finish
3E6E65BA-C748-448B-9273-4B2D094D2CCE.jpeg

you mention a wife and I assume the wife wears makeup, ask her if she has any left over browns or gold or blacks as they are very useful for dulling down if required and black coal dusting, mixed With the powders can give a decent texture if required also
old make up brushes old fine painting brushes stipple brushes are all good at giving a textured finish, I have an airbrush but usually hand brush afterwards regardless.
Hope some of these ideas might help. I use white gel pens for the handwriting on the wagons. Going to go back down my rabbit hole now before you play sack a mole lol.
 
View attachment 133997
View attachment 133998

just paint, an orange brown and an orange, acrylics have a good texture

View attachment 133999
i often mix the two colours together in different combinations and play until happ
View attachment 134000
if using white I have in the past scraped it a bit for the flaky finish
View attachment 134001
you mention a wife and I assume the wife wears makeup, ask her if she has any left over browns or gold or blacks as they are very useful for dulling down if required and black coal dusting, mixed With the powders can give a decent texture if required also
old make up brushes old fine painting brushes stipple brushes are all good at giving a textured finish, I have an airbrush but usually hand brush afterwards regardless.
Hope some of these ideas might help. I use white gel pens for the handwriting on the wagons. Going to go back down my rabbit hole now before you play sack a mole lol.
JazA,

No issues, keep posting away. Constructive criticism or in this case more ideas is what I expect from the global modelers we have here. Till recently I haven’t weather since a couple steam engines back in 1975. I am looking for dirty not destroyed but showing rust on areas of the pulp cars. I sent an email to get permission to post his pictures of Prototype rail cars.

TomO
 
I like the second one better cause it has wheels.
Naw, really I like the weathering better because it’s a little more subtle for a newer car, but both are good!
Weather up the floors and add some debris and Bobs your uncle.
Wheels, wheels who needs wheels? These cars were new in the 90’s and I model 2015 maybe going to return to 2005. Not sure how dirty I want them, but I have 30 of these to play with

Thanks Rico I appreciate the comment

Tom
 
Putin in my 2 cents - just to let you know that I am watchin!
Getting my eyes checked tomorrow cause I cannot see any difference?
A suggestion, if I may, is to have a more solid smooth background behind the "works" - there is too much "clutter" in the photo.
 
Putin in my 2 cents - just to let you know that I am watchin!
Getting my eyes checked tomorrow cause I cannot see any difference?
A suggestion, if I may, is to have a more solid smooth background behind the "works" - there is too much "clutter" in the photo.
Thanks Sherrel. I guess you do need your eyes checked, that’s not clutter, that’s my workbench…

Just kidding, you are right it is a mess

Tom
 
Putin in my 2 cents - just to let you know that I am watchin!
Getting my eyes checked tomorrow cause I cannot see any difference?
A suggestion, if I may, is to have a more solid smooth background behind the "works" - there is too much "clutter" in the photo.
Ok Sherrel,

at 1st I thought I’d clean up for you but you know what This is for me, myself and I.

truly though thanks, it needed to be cleaned up and Terry just said it’s about time (injury timeout in the Packer game for her). So I needed that kick in the pants. Thankssssssss again, nothing like a nice cleaned up area to mess up again.

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AECBB4C6-FAB9-418A-AEA5-24208EF3B2C0.jpeg
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I like citadel paints they do ‘technical’ paints which have effects
CBB529E0-9F27-416A-8995-90DAE1BF9A24.jpeg


after the blacks browns greens some glue and fine greenery
EF2C9E7F-ECD9-4E57-AFFC-853512304B4C.jpeg

38D82108-9DD7-49F0-9303-4265DBBAB643.jpeg

Ok Sherrel,

at 1st I thought I’d clean up for you but you know what This is for me, myself and I.

truly though thanks, it needed to be cleaned up and Terry just said it’s about time (injury timeout in the Packer game for her). So I needed that kick in the pants. Thankssssssss again, nothing like a nice cleaned up area to mess up again.

View attachment 134045

View attachment 134044
I like 38035 the darker colour is harder to recognise as a model 38000 you can see the inside of the model and the flat side screams model….that said maybe that is how the real thing is.if the 38026 red was on the 38035 near the supposed welded areas and a dash on the bogies and some kind of shiny water - dried PVA for weathering I would consider a wipe off powder on the white proctor because I suspect that would be dirty if been used the surface finish on the flat bed on 38026 is better in my opinion and the dirt on 38026 could b e water run off on the vertical front which in my opinion looks right, dirt in real life is often carried by water and does what water does, I personally use thinned black brown paint with a non smooth paint and let gravity do most of the work,I never ever paint items on their said always the way up they are in real life,liquid paint and then dry powder - dirt and wind and dirt in corners is what happens in real life,38035 the top bars have some red on the edges this again is realistic rust often starts with either pooled water of the protective Finnish being rubbed and more rust usually appears low down wher water pools.tthe ladders will have mud muck from boots and the bogies are oiled in real life and get clogged with dirt and can have some shine.
oh on the red on the inside on the model does not touch the horizontal flat bed BUT in my opinion and observation rust starts here first as water gathers here first and pools and starts rust.However if you add a load of say wood this would then be easily covered and not an issue. this are all ideas for consideration, it is how I look at things but you may consider other factors and thus have different opinions.
I always try to source real photos and study them.
My work is far from perfect, but we all improve, I would certainly be very happy with these as wagons age differently, and should not be carbon copies of each other.
This is a resin model, I found this relief picture which I think is the original coloured, I copied the view through the windows with bushes behind but it is hard to get the scenic area behind to align and needs work,but as we add more and more details to a scene the better they meld together as our brains look at the whole. I think the work you have done here will easily work really well on the layout.
Ifind doing a small area within the layout to its best give you a area of believability I see Willie doing this he has a massive area he works on an area in its individuality and eventually all the gaps get filled in,this is a good way to work, otherwise you never seem to get to the end point.
 

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Tom: I like all the cars since identical rolling stock will weather differently than its counterparts. I think that once you add couplers and weathered wheel-sets to all the cars along with some pulpwood, you'll be very pleased with your results.

Nice weathering too!
 
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View attachment 134002View attachment 134003
I like citadel paints they do ‘technical’ paints which have effects
View attachment 134004

after the blacks browns greens some glue and fine greeneryView attachment 134006
View attachment 134005

I like 38035 the darker colour is harder to recognise as a model 38000 you can see the inside of the model and the flat side screams model….that said maybe that is how the real thing is.if the 38026 red was on the 38035 near the supposed welded areas and a dash on the bogies and some kind of shiny water - dried PVA for weathering I would consider a wipe off powder on the white proctor because I suspect that would be dirty if been used the surface finish on the flat bed on 38026 is better in my opinion and the dirt on 38026 could b e water run off on the vertical front which in my opinion looks right, dirt in real life is often carried by water and does what water does, I personally use thinned black brown paint with a non smooth paint and let gravity do most of the work,I never ever paint items on their said always the way up they are in real life,liquid paint and then dry powder - dirt and wind and dirt in corners is what happens in real life,38035 the top bars have some red on the edges this again is realistic rust often starts with either pooled water of the protective Finnish being rubbed and more rust usually appears low down wher water pools.tthe ladders will have mud muck from boots and the bogies are oiled in real life and get clogged with dirt and can have some shine.
oh on the red on the inside on the model does not touch the horizontal flat bed BUT in my opinion and observation rust starts here first as water gathers here first and pools and starts rust.However if you add a load of say wood this would then be easily covered and not an issue. this are all ideas for consideration, it is how I look at things but you may consider other factors and thus have different opinions.
I always try to source real photos and study them.
My work is far from perfect, but we all improve, I would certainly be very happy with these as wagons age differently, and should not be carbon copies of each other.
This is a resin model, I found this relief picture which I think is the original coloured, I copied the view through the windows with bushes behind but it is hard to get the scenic area behind to align and needs work,but as we add more and more details to a scene the better they meld together as our brains look at the whole. I think the work you have done here will easily work really well on the layout.
Ifind doing a small area within the layout to its best give you a area of believability I see Willie doing this he has a massive area he works on an area in its individuality and eventually all the gaps get filled in,this is a good way to work, otherwise you never seem to get to the end point.
Thanks JazA lots to digest here

Tom
 
Tom: I like all the cars since identical rolling stock will weather differently than its counterparts. I think that once you add couplers and weathered wheel-sets to all the cars along with some pulpwood, you'll be very pleased with your results.

Nice weathering to
Thanks Greg. Yes,with many of the same (30) pulpwood cars the weathering needs to be different.

Tom
 
Wheels, wheels who needs wheels? These cars were new in the 90’s and I model 2015 maybe going to return to 2005. Not sure how dirty I want them, but I have 30 of these to play with

TomO: Being a student of rail car wheel-sets, after spending hours being parked next to an active lead into the Union Pacific yard in Butler, Wisconsin, I can add some information to the topic of weathered wheels. I could legally park within 25 feet of the right-of-way of the UP.

From 1995 to 2015 that's 20 years of exposure to rain, snow, dirt, grease and who knows what else. Trains I watched had new wheels which were bright and shiny, while older new wheels were a bright rusty color and most were just plain dirty and others black.

Your pulpwood cars, the cars after 20 years would be weathered with a mix of a few newer brighter rusty wheels where the railroad recently replaced wheels and the majority of wheel-sets being dirty and after being well exposed to the elements.

To add even more info, your cars are marked as being PROCOR who acquired 30 pulpwood cars in 1997 and leased them to the WC. These car could of been built in 1977 or earlier. The Wisconsin Central maintained their rolling stock as part of their high corporate image, but the wheel-sets would be difficult to maintain in a clean condition.

Any degree of weathering these wheel-sets would seem to appropriate for these cars and your efforts to weather the individual cars are excellent!!!

Keep us posted on your progress.

Greg

PS: Heavy rusty spots can be achieve by dappling some white glue on the model followed by some rust color pigment powder (lightly) covering the white glue and blow of any excess and let dry over-night.

A Wisconsin Central fan.
 
TomO: Being a student of rail car wheel-sets, after spending hours being parked next to an active lead into the Union Pacific yard in Butler, Wisconsin, I can add some information to the topic of weathered wheels. I could legally park within 25 feet of the right-of-way of the UP.

From 1995 to 2015 that's 20 years of exposure to rain, snow, dirt, grease and who knows what else. Trains I watched had new wheels which were bright and shiny, while older new wheels were a bright rusty color and most were just plain dirty and others black.

Your pulpwood cars, the cars after 20 years would be weathered with a mix of a few newer brighter rusty wheels where the railroad recently replaced wheels and the majority of wheel-sets being dirty and after being well exposed to the elements.

To add even more info, your cars are marked as being PROCOR who acquired 30 pulpwood cars in 1997 and leased them to the WC. These car could of been built in 1977 or earlier. The Wisconsin Central maintained their rolling stock as part of their high corporate image, but the wheel-sets would be difficult to maintain in a clean condition.

Any degree of weathering these wheel-sets would seem to appropriate for these cars and your efforts to weather the individual cars are excellent!!!

Keep us posted on your progress.

Greg

PS: Heavy rusty spots can be achieve by dappling some white glue on the model followed by some rust color pigment powder (lightly) covering the white glue and blow of any excess and let dry over-night.

A Wisconsin Central fan.
Thanks Greg. Nice to know I am heading in the right direction. I am using some canopy glue on my practice box car to simulate denting. I have not checked how it looks today. tried it last night. I will try your method for the heavy rust spots.

TomO
 



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