Power supply switch


railBuilderDhd

railBuilderDhd

Active Member
I was looking to purchase a switch for the power supply for on/off from the wall outlet to the power supply. The power supply will be used to power the LEDs on my layout. I would like to get a illuminated switch to mount on the control board. I was figuring the switch must be rated for 120V not 12V. Would this be correct? They have so many cool looking switches that can be used but many are 12V rated. I don't need to have the power switch be the cause of my home burning down. LOL

Thanks for the help.

Dave
 
railbuilderdDhd:

Yes, the switch would need to be rated for 120 Volts, but I would caution against mixing 120 volts with the low voltage wiring found in most model railroad control panels.

I would suggest powering the power supply from a outlet strip or surge protector and wiring a low voltage lamp or illuminated low voltage switch on the control panel with the low voltage output from the transformer powering your lighting.

Thanks.

Greg
 
I absolutely agree with Greg. DO NOT have any 120 wiring in with the low voltage of your control panel, especially if you had to ask that question in the first place. I've been dealing with both low voltage and high voltage (real, true, high voltage ~ 6,000 VDC) for nearly 40 years, so I'm comfortable around power, and I don't want 120vac under my layout.

A switched outlet strip is a good idea. To wire up your power supply, buy a 6 foot 3-wire extension cord, 18 gauge would be fine, and cut off the female end. IF you have a crimp tool, crimp spade terminals to the (cut cut) ends and attach to the power supply.
 
Stupid me I was not thinking of the switch on the low volt side. I was originally thinking of the power strip being the way to get but then I was thinking of having a switch on the panel to control the day or night lights.

Thanks for setting me straight.

Dave
 
Glenn,

Thanks for the post - you just cost me $22. :cool:

First, yes, off site links are fine. We all do it frequently. Sort of the "picture worth a thousand words" idea. Now to your link. That's a neat accessory. I haven't seen one on any of the electrical/electronics sights I frequent. So I actually did order one. It will be installed as the master switch for my under construction layout.
 
I have a number of power strips scattered around my layout (14' x 14' room) into which low-power (6v, 12v, and 18v, plus DC and DCC power supplies) get connected. The lowpower outputs are wired to the appropriate functions on the control panel. In a couple of places where I used 14 gage wire, and had to splice them, I used junction boxes and wire nuts. BUT THE J-BOXES ARE CLEARLY LABELLED, "NO 110 v CONNECTIONS IN THIS BOX." Where the power strips are located they are in several cases, simply duct taped to a leg supporting the layout in easy reach. The strips have red lights on them to indicate when the power is on or off at a glance.
 
Glenn,

That's what I was thinking about or even a light switch can be used, correct? Why couldn't a light switch be used as an on/off switch to the power supply? I had one I built many moons ago for a way to control an old air compressor I used for my airbrush setup. I had a cord with a 3 prong plug run into the light switch and from the light switch it ran into a 2 plug outlet. I had the outlet and switch mounted to 2 gang box on a board. This would sit near my light table and I would able to just flip the switch to run the compressor. This saved on pulling on the cord and crawling all over to plug it back in all the time.

Now I was looking at http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lumsing-3-Gang-Touch-Light-Wall-Glass-Crystal-Panel-Control-Switch-/331865228763 as a way to switch on the lights and other power supplies.
The one thing I'm not sure about with this switch (made in china I'm sure) is it has no ground shown in the wiring diagram. I would like to hear others thoughts of this switch. I thought it would look cool having a touch switch to turn on power.

Dave
 
If this is new construction, having access to the wall to install a new outlet and switch, you could use a wall switch to power one, or both of the wall outlet. I have wired a few wall outlets to have a wall switch turn on a lamp when entering a room. Easily done.
 
Dave,

Your Lumsing is exactly what we want you to stay away from. The switch that Glenn posted is totally enclosed. It has a cord that plugs into an outlet and has outlets on the back that cords plug into. That way, you do not do any AC wiring yourself. Unless, as Chet suggested, you're planning on putting the switch in the wall.

As to the ground wire, AC switches NEVER switch the ground wire, so it is no surprise it is not show in the switch's diagram. Nor is the neutral line ever switched. Only the hot (L {for Live} Wire) is switched.

My only concern about the Lumsing switch is it's 1.5A limit per circuit. That's only 165 watts per. For the power supplies, it wouldn't be a problem, but my DCC system with booster would overload the switch.
 
Kevin/ Greg,
Thanks for the extra insight and a warning I will be sure to hear. I will not use the switches seen on eBay. I do like the switches that are posted by Glenn. I have a breaker in the main box for the train room as well. This was done when I had the basement rewired and a new breaker box installed. I don't have an issue with power supplies and using switches on the DC side to be safe. After seeing the option from Glenn I was just thinking about how I wired the wall switch for my compressor and that had me thinking why not do that for the layout. No worries guys I will always get advice and not do anything to risk my life over. After all we are talking about something that's a "like to have option" on the layout.

Dave
 
I just found the same AC control plug switches on eBay for a few cents less then the original web site. With the shipping cost it's cheaper on eBay. They also have them cheaper at Guitar Center. I'll be checking them out there before I buy any.

Dave
 
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