Power source for lighting


T

Tin Can Sailor

Old Salt
This may sound pretty lame for many of you, but I've got a question. What power source do you use for simple lighting on your layout, such as street lights and buildings, etc. I'm not to that point in my layout yet, but before I set my structures I drill a hole so I can have access to place lighting in the buildings. I just don't know how I would power it.
 
I plan to use several methods. I have a few old Tyco and Lifelike power packs that can supply enough amps to light up a number of structures/streetlights in towns. I am also going to use some discarded battery chargers and voltage reducers (wall warts) from electronic toys and stuff (phone chargers, Play Stations, etc) to provide power in isolated areas where the amperage need isn't too high. Watch their output though and match things up with your bulbs or LED's. I have run a dedicated 120v power line with a number of outlets, under the layout just for these devices that is controlled by a central on/off switch. Most of my small bulbs are rated at 16v, but I will use 12v to light them, thus dimming them a bit and making them last longer. They tend to be too bright at 16v anyway.
 
Agreed. Just make sure you have a clear grip on the power requirement for the type of lighting and how many of those lights you'll have in series. You do not want to overdrive LED lights because they'll blow just as surely as you flash the filaments of incandescent bulbs with too much voltage.
 
santafewillie said:
I plan to use several methods. I have a few old Tyco and Lifelike power packs that can supply enough amps to light up a number of structures/streetlights in towns. I am also going to use some discarded battery chargers and voltage reducers (wall warts) from electronic toys and stuff (phone chargers, Play Stations, etc) to provide power in isolated areas where the amperage need isn't too high. Watch their output though and match things up with your bulbs or LED's. I have run a dedicated 120v power line with a number of outlets, under the layout just for these devices that is controlled by a central on/off switch. Most of my small bulbs are rated at 16v, but I will use 12v to light them, thus dimming them a bit and making them last longer. They tend to be too bright at 16v anyway.
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Willie, do you cut the plugs at the end of the chargers and hook the bare wire up to a bus line?
 
I assume that you mean the plugs that go into the electronic gizmo, and the answer is yes. I check with a meter to identify whether it is + or - just to wire it the same as other accessories. I actually hook them up to a terminal strip as opposed to a buss line, but that's basically the same thing.
 
Just my two cents worth.....power supplies for lighting can be in many forms from unused power packs to wall warts that once powered 12 volt desk lamps. In my case I used a power supply that once was used to power an alarm system in a retail store. I installed a retrostat from a MRC power pack and the output is connected to a volt meter. I run the voltage to the lamps at <10 volts to prolong lamp life like Willie suggested.

Since the volt meter is in the middle of the layout, the lighting buss is divided into two sections under the layout.

Greg
IMG_0236.JPG
The lighting power supply is the light tan metal housing with the MRC parts shown. The rest of the electronics is for my DCC, LED's and switch machines.-Greg

IMG_0240 (1).JPG
Power control panel with the volt meter at the upper right hand corner.-Greg
 
If you want simplicity (no wiring or soldering), check out Dwarvin.com. It's all fiber optics. A bit pricey at first, but an ingenious idea. Dwarvin also makes several styles of lamps for various locations on a layout, as well as some signaling accessories.
 
Not a lame question at all. I've adding more lighting and wondering how other people handle it myself. So far it's the cast off train set power pack method for me.
 
santafewillie said:
I plan to use several methods. I have a few old Tyco and Lifelike power packs that can supply enough amps to light up a number of structures/streetlights in towns. I am also going to use some discarded battery chargers and voltage reducers (wall warts) from electronic toys and stuff (phone chargers, Play Stations, etc) to provide power in isolated areas where the amperage need isn't too high. Watch their output though and match things up with your bulbs or LED's. I have run a dedicated 120v power line with a number of outlets, under the layout just for these devices that is controlled by a central on/off switch. Most of my small bulbs are rated at 16v, but I will use 12v to light them, thus dimming them a bit and making them last longer. They tend to be too bright at 16v anyway.
Click to expand...
I use the same. I have my pick of voltage and amps digging through the electronic recycling at work.
 
GNMT76 said:
If you want simplicity (no wiring or soldering), check out Dwarvin.com. It's all fiber optics. A bit pricey at first, but an ingenious idea. Dwarvin also makes several styles of lamps for various locations on a layout, as well as some signaling accessories.
Click to expand...
This looks awesome, but you're right, kind of spendy.
 
Tin Can Sailor said:
This looks awesome, but you're right, kind of spendy.
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Yep, the initial outlay for the Lamplighter puts a dent in the pocketbook, but after that I'd consider the lamps and rolls of fiber reasonably priced. I got mine early this year and don't regret it. The system may well outlast us all!
 
If buying a power supply specifically for lighting I would get a USB charger since lighting nowadays is all LED based. The USB chargers are very readily available and very cheap. I single 3A USB-C phone charger can run at least 150 LEDs and being only 5V you will not have to worry about too much heat being dissipated in the current limiting resistors. Use 68R resistor for white, blue, and true green LEDS. Use 150R resistor for red, yellow, orange, and wishy-washy green LEDs.
 
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