Power Blocks at Switches: How best to do it?


herkulese

Member
OK, I am perplexed as to the best way to make a power block with Ross switches.

Which of these methods would be the best way to go?

1) Thru the wiring in the switch: ie don't jumper the side to be blocked.
2) Jumper all three legs of the switch, then use a fiber pin at whichever side is to be blocked.

It seems that simply having the switches wired up completely, and using a fiber pin might be the least confusing for track design and parts ordering, but I am sure that there are other considerations that I am unaware of.
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OK, I am perplexed as to the best way to make a power block with Ross switches.

Which of these methods would be the best way to go?

1) Thru the wiring in the switch: ie don't jumper the side to be blocked.
2) Jumper all three legs of the switch, then use a fiber pin at whichever side is to be blocked.

It seems that simply having the switches wired up completely, and using a fiber pin might be the least confusing for track design and parts ordering, but I am sure that there are other considerations that I am unaware of.
It is hard to answer your question since ROSS switches are custom built. They are basically unlike any other brand on the market. They come in three lines and (I believe) 4 variations, and depending upon which line and variation has been purchased, changes the answer. OR is that the real question - Which version to buy?

Personally, If I were using Ross turnouts (which I don't) and wanting to have blocks on both tracks coming from the turnout I would buy the "manual" switches and not worry about fiber pins. But that is me. If getting the manual pre-wired version and using a fiber pin makes more sense to you that might be your best option.

The consideration is where you want the block to begin. With the totally manual non-pre-wired ones the block begins in the middle of the turnout. Using pre-wired turnouts and fiber pins, the block begins at the end of the turnout. That can be easier to conceptualize, and might have less chance of a locomotive "jumping" a block.

Perhaps Bruette can provide a much better answer. He is the master of O-gauge on this forum.
 
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Thanks,
That does begin to answer the question, especially the last part about having the block begin at the end of the turnout, so you don't get engine jump at that point
 
Many of my switches will be where I can't easily reach them. If they need servicing, I have my table on casters so that I can roll it away from the wall and get to everything, but I won't be able to reach several on a day to day "While Running Trains" basis. Some of the switches will be blocked, one way or the other, or even both ways, and some will not be blocked at all.
I talked with Steve at Ross Custom Switches, and he suggested to get the switches wired up and cut whichever plate I need to to create the block. He mentioned, as well as some others in other forums, that the track can move, and make contact at the fiber pins, and that precautions must be taken to insure that this doesn't happen. All of that said, I believe that I will go that route.
I will also be wiring them for the non-derailing feature as well.

BTW, what exactly engine jump? I am very new to all of this, so I need some details on this.
If the next block is on the engine would simply go thru, right?
Then of the next block was off the engine would stop, right?
 
BTW, what exactly engine jump? I am very new to all of this, so I need some details on this.
If the next block is on the engine would simply go thru, right?
Then of the next block was off the engine would stop, right?
Yes, you are right if your blocks are only "On" and "Off". I was thinking when a 2nd controller is in charge of the next block and the locomotive "jumps" the power between the two. That could either short them together, provide double the power to the loco, or both.
 
Yes, you are right if your blocks are only "On" and "Off". I was thinking when a 2nd controller is in charge of the next block and the locomotive "jumps" the power between the two. That could either short them together, provide double the power to the loco, or both.

You bring up a good point. How do you get around the jumping, shorting, over powering where a train simply goes from one powered block to the next powered block?
 
You bring up a good point. How do you get around the jumping, shorting, over powering where a train simply goes from one powered block to the next powered block?
I assume you mean when the blocks are on different power supplies. As far as I know there isn't any simple way to get around it, other than having good engineers who know where their train is supposed to be and are paying attention. At the museum we have a complex signal system, stopping the train at a red signal will prevent a short.
 



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