post your model RR tips........


Never tired this...friend used this with great results.
IF you often work with Kadee coupler springs [any other fine springs, small parts!], lose them a lot, this might help. Tip glass aquarium [wide/deep enough to work inside comfortably] on side, on low cabinet or workbench [friend actually built low extension to his workbench, at exact height to work comfortably for him]. Place work light in tank, overhead or from sides. White paper under what is now the bottom of work box, helps in locating small objects easier on the glass. Cut arm holes in soft material. Tape this to tank opening [top, sides, bottom] w/enough slack to work comfortably. View what you're doing through top glass of tank. Friend commented how those $#@& springs would still get away but now, he could re-locate 'em! No more vacuuming floor, dumping contents, sifting through dirt w/light, magnet, in hopes of finding lost critters! My 2 cents.....Old Tom in New Hampshire
 
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THANK YOU KEVIN: If my ravings help a few modelers here, it's All Good, ROFL! Over the years, have seen folks come up with TONS of Great, Fascinating ideas in our most enjoyable Hobby. TTFN.....papasmurf
 
If you use turnouts or track with connecting wires and have a foam surface, cut a slit in the foam and bury the wire in it.

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Anyone ever done/seen this before?
 
elsner203,

I think that's a pretty cool idea... in theory. Let me tell you a story...

About five years ago, we put in a new flower bed (for my wife) in front of our house. After installing slightly over 300 landscaping bricks and dumping in a total of 15 cubic yards of sub-soil and topsoil, I laid in one of those "soaker hoses" to water the flowers before we put in the inch or so of mulch on top of it -- slightly burying the hose below the top surface of the mulch. It worked very well until the next spring when my wife wanted some new flowers planted. As I was digging holes to set the new flowers, I managed to either nick or completely cut the hose in five different places. I tried to splice the hose -- in retrospect, I wonder if it is even possible to splice a soaker hose. Needless to say, I had to make a trip to the local hardware store to buy new soaker hose -- which now lies on the surface of the flower bed.

What concerns me about burying wires just below the surface of the foam is that one day you or someone else will forget exactly where the wires are buried. And when a hole is punched to install a tree or a street light, or a cut-in is made for a drainage ditch, etc... you'll have to re-install some new wiring.

Of course, that's just one man's theory. But from my experience with the flower bed, I will not install a wire just below my ground surface. :)

Regards,
Tom Stockton
 
Tom, you're absolutely right. It's going to take some preventive measures to make sure the wiring isn't damaged. I didn't think it through when I tucked them in, but it's not too late to come up with something that will work for the long haul.
 
elsner203,

The March, 2014 issue of Model Railroader has a brief article on installing wiring on the front edge of the benchwork, rather than underneath. The gentleman who came up with it installed his main wiring on the front edge of his benchwork; he used 1x2"s (?) at the top and bottom of the front edge, forming a "channel" for the wiring to run through. He then attached his fascia boards to the 1x2's using screws; this way, the wiring was hidden, but he could remove the fascia boards to add to / troubleshoot his wiring. IIRC, his main reasoning was to eliminate under-the-layout wiring as much as possible.

To me, this sounds like an incredible idea -- and in a way, I'm surprised that this is the first time I've heard of such a thing. And the only possible "con" I can come up with is that it would narrow the "walkways" for the guy(s) running the trains by an inch or two.

I do believe that when I finally get around to building my next layout (currently, I don't have one), I will give this a try. It sounds like -- GENIUS! -- or "Why didn't I think of that?"

Regards,
Tom
 
I've been painting some pretty small pieces for the last few days and have found that paper towels work pretty well as paint brushes. I took one paper towel, cut it into smaller squares and twisted them to a point. Works perfectly! They hold paint well, show no brush strokes and if I make a mistake, I just dab off a little paint with the other end. You can also control the size of the tip you need. So much easier to throw away paper towels than it is to clean brushes all the time. Especially for small projects!
 
Q-tips work well as well. Dip the q-tip in the paint, and then lightly roll it on. You get a thin consistent layer of paint with no brush strokes.
 
For weathering I like to use real rust. I tear off a small piece of fine steel wool and put in in a small bowl. I spray it lightly with some water. it turns fast! I apply it with water or rubbing alcohol and dulcote over it when Im happy with the results. If you over do it, it cleans off easily . It also looks good sprinkled on where rust would pile up.
 
Absolutely! Use some more coarse steel wool if you want some "chunkier" stuff. You also get some really fine particles in the bottom your container that paint on nicely.
 
Thanks mantua mike.

I'll give it a try and post some pics for your thoughts on the outcome. You mentioned you use dulcote cover the "rust". This is obviously to hold it in place. Do you think that a covering of 50/50 white glue would work? Just don't want to go out and buy a product for such a small job - it's called being stingy :)

So many ideas you don't think of...
 
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This was a technique used years ago in the hobby, and it is a good one. As to the track rusting when it's applied to it, won't happen. Unless you're using steel rails, there won't be any rust because neither brass nor nickel silver, (another brass alloy), doesn't rust. It tarnishes.
 
This was a technique used years ago in the hobby, and it is a good one. As to the track rusting when it's applied to it, won't happen. Unless you're using steel rails, there won't be any rust because neither brass nor nickel silver, (another brass alloy), doesn't rust. It tarnishes.
Well it sounds like you know what you're on about there. But definitely avoid putting rust on any steels.
 
Mantua mike,

Well, I have been waiting for my SOS Pad to finally rust away so I could try your rusting technique ... what do you think of my first attempt?

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Speaking of rust... another tip comes to mind. Can't recall which of the model RR mags I recall this one from. All you need is a screwdriver, a baking pan or cookie sheet, and an old car that's rusting out. At the bottom of the fenders, probably around the wheel wells, look for a place where the metal in the car is rusting out. Place the pan under the car's rusty place, then gently poke and/or pry some of the rust and junk loose. The debris you will acquire makes a wonderful residue for the floor of a gondola. IIRC, you might want to seal the residue with several light coats of Dullcote or some other matte medium. You can also weather the residue further to enhance the rusty effect.

Please get permission from the owner if it's not your car!!! Or you could probably do the same at a junk yard -- again, with permission.

Regards,
Tom Stockton
 



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