Portable tables

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donshizzles

New Member
I am building a rather large set up in my garage for my son with two to three 4x8 tables. The reason I am having multiple tables is I want the ability, if we happen to move, to be able to separate the tables to move them. My question is what are some ideas as to how to have a detachable track/bridge/etc. that I can easily pull apart if I need to move the table but will allow a seemless system running across all 3 tables?
 
The simple thing to do is bolt the tables together and put a piece of sectional track as a connection between the two tables wherever the track crosses table to table. Dont attach it and lay track on either side using it as the starting point. When the tables are unbolted for moving that piece comes out and can be packed. Doing this keeps the ends of the rest of the track 4.5 inches away from the edge. Thus minimizing damage to track in the moving. Also build a frame around the table about 4" above the surface so when you move you can screw a sheet of 1/4" ply over the top to make a "box lid" for moving. I used to use 3/4" pine shelving. Cut your table size down to 46.5" x 94.5 so the top will fit.

From the experience of a Navy Brat

of course there are a hundred ways to do it
 


I've got a similar "if I ever move" plan for my own layout.

When considering the possibility of ever having to move my layout a few things did occur to me: First off no other single piece of anything in the house has anywhere close to the same amount of $ of materials and time put into it. The value of no other single piece of furniture, including the antiques, can compare to what is invested into the layout. If you've ever stopped to factor the cost of a layout, it can be staggering to realize just how much you've sunk into it over the years. With that perspective in mind, I can easily justify renting a small moving truck simply for the dedicated task of transporting the layout sections. It's huge, fragile, and it's sum total of parts makes it probably one of the most valuable things you own. Treat it accordingly.

Mine is designed so that the layout can simply be unbolted from the supporting legs and shelving beneath it, then the sections picked up and carried off by two people. Then the legs can be carried out or taken apart further and removed. The point is, the "deck" portion, which is the actual layout, can be relocated independently of the supporting bench work. I can build new supports and set the deck on them far easier than I could build another layout.
 
My layout is totally modular and easy to break down if necessary. Modules are built using the NMRA Standards and Best Practices. Modules can be "lifted" from the frame/tables and changed out to change to different eras. From steam, to the "transition era", to just about any time period following.

Tables have adjustable, fold up legs and are fastened together when in use for rigidity.

Bob
 
Consider if those tables can be moved through the door(s) once the RR is built. You can get 4X8 sheets of plywood into the room now, but if once you add track and scenery, you might find that that they no longer fit through the door(s) if you have any elevated areas.

I strongly recommend going modular with modules smaller than 4X8. There are a number of standards for building modules and dozens of hardware solutions for locking the modules together until it's time to move.
 
My modules range from 24"x48" to larger modules that measure 72"x96" from my yard. Portability, and the necessity of future "moves" possibly being a "one-man show" had me designing the layout as such. 48"x96" while manageable, is just to "clunky" and awkward for one man to move. And unused modules are stored in racks. This was also a thought when I designed my layout.

Bob
 
'gonna thrown some more of my $.02 in here again...

People are posting about modules and conforming to standards of construction. It's a good idea to look over some of that, but remember a module's design comes from the function of that it is intended to be moved around a lot. If what you are looking to build is along the lines of the more traditional semi/permanent non-traveling layout, then a module concept may be unsuitable for your purposes. You'd be needlessly limiting your design by the constraints of a module system you don't need, or making things needlessly complex. When you build your layout, just keep in mind how you would take it down.
 
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Dameon, I would doubt that if one would visit my layout that you would think that there are many limitations when constructing modular. The neatest aspect of modular, besides its portability, is its flexibility. One can change a couple of module and completely change the eras, scene, or theme. I don't see many limitations.

Another good deal is that working with smaller areas, you see progress much quicker. There are drawbacks as modular is more expensive to construct, the price of the portability. Hardware and construction material for the "tables". Working with smaller areas, modules, allows you to concentrate on detailing, and the finer detailing, of the smaller areas.

I have approximately 1400 ft of track down. The layout is flexible, as the grandson could not relate to my interests of the transition era. He was more familiar with AC4400's, Dash 8's and 9's, SD60 and such. Trains he would see when we visited the NS yard in New Haven, Indiana. The main reason I have so many trains. By clearing the layout of all things steam and replacing those modules, I could pique his interests rather easily. The one module that would remain was the turntable, as the yard we frequented does have one.

The funny thing about the grandson's interests is that his favorite engines are the NKP 765, which we were able to see being rebuilt, the NW 611, and the Big Boys, all steam. But when we would run trains together, since he was 4 years old(he's now 16 and driving a car, how time flies), we ran NS diesels, the ones we saw in the yard. He also liked cabooses, so all of the trains had to have a caboose and not an ETD.

I disagree that the purpose of modular construction is for portability, while that is a bonus. There is actually less "dead" space to fill, and the intimidating idea of engineering and building benchwork for a static display is nil. I've seen layouts where the benchwork should be listed on the Seven Wonders of the World. Massive would be an understatement. My layout actually had its beginnings as a display. The first few modules were intended to be used as a dioramas. Big difference in planning and engineering.

Modular is the way to go in my opinion. Not just for its portability, but for the little "victories" one gets when completing each section. The bonuses of portability and flexibility are just icing on the cake. And building is not much more than constructing dioramas, and connecting them.

Bob
 


Thank you for all the great replies!!! I have to admit that going with a modular set up might be a bit much for my purposes. I'd like to limit costs as much as possible and its a set up for my 5 year old to begin to enjoy soon. It will as permanent as much as we stay in our current house. I'd just need to be able to break down the tables a bit to move them if we move.

I like the idea of bolting the tables together with a detachable section of track.
 
donshizzles said:
Thank you for all the great replies!!! I have to admit that going with a modular set up might be a bit much for my purposes. I'd like to limit costs as much as possible and its a set up for my 5 year old to begin to enjoy soon. It will as permanent as much as we stay in our current house. I'd just need to be able to break down the tables a bit to move them if we move.

I like the idea of bolting the tables together with a detachable section of track.
Click to expand...

What you have just explained IS modular!!! My version is just done on smaller, 2x4,2x6, 2x8, up to 36" widths, all connected and bolted together for added stability.

I use a 6" piece of track to connect the rails between modules. Don't let the cost difference fool you. What you spend in hardware with a modular layout, you save on wood for the static layout. A bit of a trade off. But, you gain flexibility and portability with modular. You can start with a rather basic layout and add modules and have the layout grow as you and your son grow in the hobby. Definitely the way to go in my opinion. Less wasted space too. And no need for a bulky 4x8 sheet of plywood.

Bob
 
If I may add:

Tossing / scrapping a 2X4 (for example) module is much less painful than ripping up or tossing a large layout. Trust me on this - I had a large L-girder and Homosote layout in my basement about 12 years ago when I had to move.

Very little of that layout survived although I tried to salvage as much as I could.

Even if you don't move, you'll likely find that you'll want to rework sections as your skills improve.

"That is all I have to say."
 
Well, I already had a nice piece of 4x8 homasote laying around in the garage so I am going to use that initially. After that I'll use smaller modular pieces that can be moved or re-worked easily. I'd like to keep costs down as much as possible on the wood structure and a free piece of homasote is a start.

The other question I have is should I lay some blue styrene on top and work from there to create texture and landscape? It seems that many folks advocate this method of covering the entire board and then carving out lanscape from that. Thoughts?
 
You can use the 4x8 Homasote as a foundation for a module. But, you sound as if you have your mind made up. It would be so much easier starting modular and continuing on. But , if the time comes, and you have to move the layout, you'll be wishing the 4x8 section had never been used.

I just moved my layout with just over 1400' of track last year. I can testify as to the ease of the move. Even main the yard, 6x12((3) sections) went smoothly. The hardest part was putting it back together, leveling the tables, and the trips back and forth from the train room to the truck. But we had the entire layout up and running in just over a day, though most of the structures and backdrop still had to be placed. Powering it back up was made much easier since I use mini plug(purchased at Radio Shack) to connect each module.

My background "mountains, hills, and elevations" is built from plaster, plaster cloth, and a corrugated paper "matrix" made from cardboard boxes. I cut the box into 1" strips, roll them to make them more flexible crushing the medium, or corrugated layer. I built a rudimentary frame from 1x2's, staple the cardboard to the top, or to a piece of wood placed lower if desired(for the verticals of the matrix). If using insulation board, such as Dow Blue Board, use a "cool or low temperature" glue. Spacing is about 6". Then I glue the horizontals. A layer of plaster cloth is then applied, using a spray bottle with water to moisten. Multiple layers may be used, but I have never gone more than three layers. Then, after the plaster cloth has dried thoroughly, I apply Hydro-Cal. After the Hydro-Cal has dried, I add any rock formations(made from Hydro-Cal using Woodland Scenic molds) attaching them with, again, Hydro-Cal. After all is dry, I add a wash for color an allow to dry. Then come the highlights of color. Last on the list is adding trees and vegetation using a watered down white glue and a spray bottle, being careful not to wet an area faster than I can scenic before the glue sets up.

Though this method sounds intricate and complex, it is MUCH less messy than working insulation board. Another item one can use is Celotex ceiling tile. Again forming this stuff is quite messy and a vacuum cleaner at the ready is a must.

Bob

Bob
 
donshizzles said:
The other question I have is should I lay some blue styrene on top and work from there to create texture and landscape? It seems that many folks advocate this method of covering the entire board and then carving out lanscape from that. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Ummm, I think you mean blue extruded styrofoam although a piece of blue styrene plastic could make a nice backdrop. I've always thought of Homosote as strictly a roadbed material to drive track nails into more easily than plywood and it has some sound lessening properties. Not sure why one would glue foam on top of Homosote but I guess you could.

Dunno, I feel that scenery methods are a matter of personal taste. I've seen beautifully done scenery using foam and / or plaster over cardboard strips and / or "ground goop" over fine mesh screen with wooden risers and so on.

Personally, I always use extruded foam now b/c I don't use plywood or homosote for a base - just 2-inch thick foam. Well, I'll qualify that a bit - I'm experimenting now with foam laminated onto hollow core doors.
 
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Sorry to ressurect an old thread however I have a question similar to the OP.

I'm in the military and move a lot and unfortunately when we do move, most of the time it's not handled by me which means anytable/track I do make could have the possibility of being set on it's side or any number of ways moving companies can fit it in a crate and most likely being handled roughly. Moving isn't a quesiton or a possibility as mentioned above, it's a reality and will occur several times over the years. Yes we'll technically be reimbursed for any loss howeverit can be argued that you can never be reimbursed for the loss of a good layout you've made from scratch.

I've already resigned myself to probably not being able to make a layout until I retire, however I figured I'd pose the question to you all, being experts on the matter, and see if you know of any suggestions for the above situation. If ya'll think I should just wait the 14 years until retirement it wont hurt my feelings at all as I've already resigned myself to that fact! I've done some railroading back in my teenager years before I joined up but I would be no means call myself anywhere near an expert.
 
I love the opportunity to speak on what I've done with my layout!!!

Modular is the way to go. There are many out there who take modules/scenes to train shows to integrate with club layouts. Modular constructions allows flexibility and portability. And, obviously, the layouts seen at train shows are modular, for the most part. I have only seen one that was not.

There are a couple of ideas for the criteria of the modules. I use the NMRA Standards and Best Practices.

Here are a couple of links to the NMRA site:

http://www.nmra.org/standards/modules/ms_intro.html

http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/consist.html

The neatest thing I think about modules is that I can change my layout from steam to modern diesel in a little over an hour. That way, I can run my steam engines and older diesels, and the grandkids are able to run the modern diesels that they can relate to and see almost every day. Flexibility is inherent in such a set up.

Bob
 
Yeah, I'm familiar with the modular standards, the main problem I'm having is trying to come up with a plan, mainly for the table itself not so much the layout, so that it can take a lot of abuse and live. At this point if I can get one that is robust enough that it wont be damaged with rough handling I wouldn't even mind it not being standard.

The only thing that has come to mind is to have portable scenary, which I know will take away from a lot of the realism of the layout, but it's the only way I can think of to still be able to have a track.

The best way I can think of to say it is that I need a table that can protect a layout while it is upside down being jostled, hammered and dropped from at leaast 3 ft. I know those are unrealistic expectations which is why I'm expecting to have to wait until I'm retired but I figured it doesn't hurt to ask and see if nyone has any ideas.
 


Have you tried designing some sort of wooden packing frame / sleeve-like structure that you could slide the layout into? It would work best with modules and probably limit the height / depth of your scenery. Not sure how you could cushion it though in case of being dropped. The closest thing I can think of is the type of sleeve they use to ship paintings.

If you search some back issues of MR, I think there was an article about a system like that used by a modular club.
 
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