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Just wondering which portable soldering iron you guys use/like? My 20 year old Lenk (butane) died and sure, can just get another, but why not upgrade to something better...if you guys know of any? I prefer using a portable one for soldering joins, power and custom track work... and leaving my fancy station set in once place (I use a lot for my fast-track turnouts and other work... Anyone using the electric battery ones? I had one 10 years ago I hated... just wondering! Have a great day and thanks for the input!
Yup what I use like 95% of the time...I like the control, etc....but sometimes you need to move... I do have a wheeled/portable cabinet and do move the station to there when needed, but looking for alternative...
Yup what I use like 95% of the time...I like the control, etc....but sometimes you need to move... I do have a wheeled/portable cabinet and do move the station to there when needed, but looking for alternative...
Exactly smudge...its been 10 years... hoping others have better experience than you or me... I do say some interesting reviews on these battery powered ones T100 and Pinecil v2... but then I have a cord and a battery...hmmm...I do love dialing in my temp on my Hakko FX951...so easy and works PERFECTLY...
Define portable. I have a Ryobi soldering station. Runs off battery (I use battery only) or 120VAC. Can set temperature, came with two tips, holder for the iron, and small sponge. When I turn it on takes about 30 seconds to get to operating temperature. Usually on my workbench but have taken it out on the railroad to fix things. I believe the model is P3100. Battery can be used with all other One+ Ryobi tools.
I use a portable re-chargeable soldering tool, a corded soldering iron and a soldering station.
The re-chargeable has been strong enough to solder feeds to rail. Lasts about an hour of mostly constant soldering. I do find the tip gets loose and is annoying. I have had mine since before Covid 2020. Would I buy it again? I tried it once trying to solder Rail to pc copper strips. Not strong enough IMO. So not at the price shown today
I found them all on Amazon this afternoon, priced higher now then I paid
Hmmm tempted by the battery versions...hmmm! So used to butane it is hard....Hmmm. Thanks for the input all! Now, back to working on split gear replacement...
I have one of those “cold soldering“ thingys, haven’t touched it in so long I can’t remember how well it worked!
I should dig it out soon and make sure the batteries aren’t corroded.
Anyone try one of those?
Hmmm tempted by the battery versions...hmmm! So used to butane it is hard....Hmmm. Thanks for the input all! Now, back to working on split gear replacement...
I will let you know...have a bunch of replacement, both wheels and gears arriving...i have watched a million youtubes.... made a masonite jig for holding...more to come on that...
Smudge, made a jig with a 2x4 piece (to hold wheel) and used a oak dowel on my drill press...worked well and replaced the gears on like 8 sets in minutes...Nothing fancy
Smudge, made a jig with a 2x4 piece (to hold wheel) and used a oak dowel on my drill press...worked well and replaced the gears on like 8 sets in minutes...Nothing fancy
I just use a small vice and two washers with the sides cut off so the look like the letter C connected by a piece of brass, place them between the wheels and the gear and gently squeeze them together, I get perfect b2b gauge every time, wierd how we come up with one off novel ideas how to do stuff.
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