painting plastic without airbrush?

[lgh2000]

Hi I don't have a airbrush and I am wondering is there a good alternative too them and what paints would you recommend for cement surfaces to make them look dirty. would using a normal brush work well or sponges, paper towels? I have some paints but their pretty old and not good anymore so I need to buy some or should I just invest in a air brush? My local hobby shop had one on sale for $70 cdn I forget the brand though.

 

[UP2CSX]

I think having an airbrush is almost mandatory if you're really going to be a modeler. You can paint with almost anything but nothing will give you the same smooth results as an airbrush. In terms of weathering, I rarely use paint at all. I use india ink diluted about 1 part ink to 8 parts isopropyl alcohol. I use this as wash, applied with a regular or foam brush, depending on how much surface I have to cover. The ink wash will dull things down and bring out detail. I then use artists chalks to apply more concentrated weathering. There are weathering powders you can buy specifically for model use but I find cheap artists chalk set from a craft store do about the same job for less money. Spray the model with Dullcote, let it dry, and then weather with chalks. If something goes wrong, you can use a damp paper towel to remove the chalks. When it's like you want it, spray on another coat of Dullcote to seal it. The Dullcote will make some of the chalk disappear so you have to weather a little more heavily than what you really want to have it look right when it's sealed. It takes some practice to get it right but I think you'll like the results.

 

[sparkyftw]

Just adding to Jim, who has some great advice.

I tried to paint using acrylics last night on a building kit I have, and I have to agree, airbrush is the only way to go. Even using a really nice brush and paint, I couldn't get the paint to look good on the plastic.

 

[kenw]

for solid colors, if you have a good technique similar to that needed for an airbrush, excellent results can be had using canned spray paint. I've used them often for buildings, scenery and even rolling stock. Exact color match can be tough, but for black tankcars, red brick buildings and such, spray paint is very do-able. You can followup with brushed on detail of a different color once it dries.

 

[Laidoffsick]

You know, how many times do we see this type of post. If you are serious about any type of modeling you are going to have to get an air brush eventually. They can be bought at very low prices these days, look at the Harbor freight posts in this forum, compressoers are cheap, and you can get water based paint. There is absolutely no excuse not to get an airbrush and learn how to use it. Sorry if that seems harsh but come on people...............seriously. You spend tons of money on modeling of whatever kind and ask about spray cans and brush painting. You don't need an expensive spray booth or respirator, no matter what "Mr Green" may say. Instead of buying the next 2 engines or building kits you were gonna buy, go get an airbrush.

 

[sparkyftw]

This reminds me of a discussion on a car forum I am on.

They were talking about OBDII scanners.

Some people swear buy the key dance, while the majority are getting to the point of telling new people the first things they should buy is a Haynes manual and a scanner. Yeah they cost $100, but it is the best tool to have.

Seems like it is the same with an airbrush and modeling. If you have to do a job worth doing, might as well do it right.

 

[kjd]

Specifically, using an airbrush to represent concrete is very hard because concrete is a mix of lots of colors from very dark to almost white. Here are a couple "concrete" things I built recently:
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=129861&postcount=11
For more on the loadout, look for the September 2009 Railroad Model Craftsman.

I used a spray can for the primer and black, white, burnt umber, and yellow acrylics.

 

[CP9302]

I'll agree with everybody else, it is worth it to get an airbrush and small compressor.

If you want to use brushes, I'd suggest using matte paints rather then gloss, as it is easier to get a thin even coat of paint. You'll still have some brush strokes, but not as bad as with a gloss.

 

[kenw]

...... If you have to do a job worth doing, might as well do it right.

"doing it right" is not always dependent upon having a specific tool. It is more about having the tool that is capable of giving the results you want. As i said, there are many times when a can of spray paint is more than capable of "doing the job right".

Also, using spray paints allows co-spraying, which is very useful for spraying varigated and blended colors. I used this (2 cans of different shades of green, 1 in the left hand, 1 in the right....) on most of my scenery as an undercoating coloration. It is also handy for concrete items, old brick walls and others where subtle variation is important. An airbrush can't do it nearly as quickly and requires a lot more work to blend the shades in varying degrees.

clean up is infinitely simpler, too......

 

[jbaakko]

I tend to disagree, while an airbush simplifies the process GREATLY, you CAN brush paint, if you have a steady hand and practice a ton before you attack good models.

The green & black (respectively) was done by hand on these two units, to save a day in my process.

If you look hard, you'd be hard pressed to find any brush strokes...

 

[stationmaster]

Check out www.harborfreight.com for one sweet deal on an airbrush kit, including compressor. I just got one a few weeks ago as a portable unit for the layout. We got to use it while working on a charity layout for a nursing home. All of the guys helping were really impressed.

I use a lot of chalks when weathering. Then spray with Dullcoat.

The trick when using brushes is to apply in thin coats.

Bob

 

[Screwjack]

This is probably dangerous territory for a newbie to be posting in, but...

I just painted my first building the other day. It is a DPM brick building, you know the ones with the fascia and trim around the windows. Cool looking buildings in my opinion. I used a spray can (I know, I haven't bought an air brush yet, but it is in my plans to get one so take it easy on a newbie please) of Krylon primer called Ruddy Brown, sprayed the whole building. When it was dry I started to brush the trim areas, other than my screw up of painting to far down into the brick with the trim color, I think it looks pretty good. It does need a second coat on the brushed areas, then I think it will look really good.

But, I also know the value of an airbrush and like I said one is in my future, just trying to figure out which one I want.

Bob It this what you bought??? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95630

 

[UP2CSX]

Tony, your really don't have a choice with those DPM models. Once you get the base coat on, which can just as easily be done with a rattle can or an airbrush, you have to brush paint all the rest of the details. Learning how to brush paint, especially fine details, like the trim on DPM buildings or those pesky grabirons that are a contrasting color to the model, is just as important as learning how to use an air brush. As Ken said, there's no magic tool that will give you good results on everything. Air brushes, artist brushes, and rattle cans all have their place in modeling.